Wall Kitchen Corner Cabinet

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Free plans to build a wall corner kitchen cabinet from ana-white.com

We've been working hard up at the Momplex, really trying to get to the point of kitchens up there soon!  But in the meantime, I want to keep the plans coming for you as well!  

Upon much requests from you, today's plan (see below) is a corner wall kitchen cabinet that works with these wall kitchen cabinets.  It's important to note that this plan specifically works with a wall cabinet with 11 3/4" width plywood rips to get face frames to match up perfectly.  

I also recommend beg/borrow/steal/rent whatever you have to do to get a good table saw for building this cabinet.  The cabinet requires 45 bevel cuts - there's no way around it.  If you can't get your hands on a table saw, I will also be posting a blind corner wall cabinet that will not require any bevel rips.

I hope when you look at this plan, you think, wow, that's actually pretty simple!  This plan proved to be one of the toughest for me on my end ... not because it's complicated, but because I wanted to simplify it as much as possible.

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - sheet 3/4" hardwood cabinet grade plywood (shown in PureBond Oak)
1/2 - sheet 1/4" hardwood cabinet grade plywood for backs and door panel
8' - 1x2s in matching hardwood veneer
6' - 1x3s in matching hardwood veneers (you'll need another 8' for doors if doing doors)
Edge banding in matching veneer for finishing off shelf fronts
Shelf pins and shelf pin jig for attaching adjustable shelf
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
wood glue
1" finish nails for attaching back
1/2" Overlay Face Frame Concealed Euro Style Hinges (2) - get the ones that attach to the face frame

Cut List

CARCASS CUT LIST
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 12 1/2" x 30" (one edge beveled at 45 degrees, widest width is 12 1/2")
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 32 1/8" x 18 3/4"
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 12 1/4" x 30" (both edges beveled at 45 degrees, widest width is 12 1/4" - cut this from 12 1/2" wide strip - see step 1)
4 - 1x2 @ 14 3/4" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees bevel)
2 - 1/4" plywood @ 30" x 15 7/8"

FACE FRAME CUT LIST
2 - 1x3 @ 30", ripped down at a 45 degree bevel to shortest side width of 1 1/2", longest side width of 2 1/4"
2 - 1x2 @ 12 7/8"

DOOR MADE TO FIT - Overall Dimensions 29" x 13 7/8" x 3/4"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

For this cabinet, I highly recommend a high quality table saw. But you could use a circular saw that cuts a beveled edge at 45 degrees off square. If you do this, you'll need to clamp a board to the plywood and follow it to get straight cuts like I do in this video.

For table saw, set bevel to 45 degrees and rip plywood to a 12 1/2" width, with the 12 1/2" being the longest width on the beveled edge.  I highly recommend taking a second to test cut on scrap before committing to cutting the full sheet.  The short beveled edge width is 11 3/4".

Once you have these cuts, you can cut the remaining strip 18 3/4" wide for the top, bottom, and shelf.  The center is scrap, but you may wish to use it for additional shelves.

Step 2

From the 18 3/4" wide strips, cut two pieces 32 1/8" long. Then from those pieces, mark as shown in this diagram, and cut out top and bottom. Use this also as a pattern to cut remaining shelf - it can be a little smaller, especially on the pointed corner ends, as it's just the shelf.

For tops and bottoms, drill 3/4" pocket holes as shown in diagram.

Step 3

Next attach the sides to tops and bottoms. Drill the 3/4" pocket holes first facing forward for attaching face frames in later steps. The adjacent cabinet will cover the pocket holes, and if this is an end cabinet, you will put 1/4" plywood over the end to finish it out.

For bottom shelf, place pocket holes on bottom where they will be hidden. For top shelf, place pocket holes on top where they will be hidden.

Step 4

Now add the back. You'll need to rip the back down so both edges are beveled from the plywood ripped for the sides. Then attach at top and bottom to the top and bottom of the carcass.

Step 5

Step 6

Now let's finish off the back with 1/4" plywood. Just nail and glue in place.

Step 7

Next, build the face frame.

To keep the look consistent, you'll need to rip the 1x3 boards down to 1 1/2" reveal on the short side of the rip, beveling the edge at 45 degrees. Do some testing first to make sure your cuts are accurate. Then build your face frame with glue and pocket holes (3/4" and 1 1/4" screws). Attach to face of cabinet, with overhangs approximately 1/2" on each side.

Step 8

For a full overlay door, you'll need room for the door to swing open without hitting and adjacent cabinet. Build or purchase doors as shown sized above. To attach, you must use 1/2" Overlay Face Frame Concealed Euro Style hinges, at least two for 30" tall cabinets.

Step 9

To install, you always start with the corner first and then work your way around. Corners need to be screwed to a stud in the wall and properly hung. I know these cabinets can get heavy, so make sure you have adequate support. There will be a 1/2" gap between cabinets to give you some "wiggle" room in case your walls aren't perfectly square. Just make sure the face frames line up perfectly. Shim the gap and screw cabinets together from insides. We also like to hide a few screws to connect face frame to face frame for a seamless look.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

trailsingr

Fri, 02/01/2013 - 16:16

Ana, if I don't build my own cabinets I sure won't be able to blame it on you - I can't believe you got this plan posted so quickly after the upper cabinet plans! Thank you!

whitney_smith

Mon, 02/04/2013 - 04:30

You really did make it easy. The face framing is probably the only really tricky part. Can't wait to see Momplex cabinets!

jsh2001

Mon, 02/04/2013 - 11:24

Can't thank you enough for all of the cabinet plans. Now if I can build a trial cabinet to meet the wife's demands we may be on our way to a new kitchen.

Growler48

Sun, 03/10/2013 - 08:08

Ana,
Can you please share what wood grain pattern you used on this project? Learning Sketchup now and would like to use the same on my projects.

Dsturtevant

Thu, 01/08/2015 - 13:13

Ana i have constructed some modular lockers from your plans that i plan to connect and now that i have them in the space i want to make use of the corner by building a diagonal wall cabine with an open face that is 7 ft tall. How do I adjust your plans to accomodate the build...help!

JimmyLJ1970

Sat, 01/02/2016 - 07:20

Hello Ana, I was doing my layout and noticed the top measurements don't equal, 9-7/8 + 12-1/4" + 9-7/8" only equals 32 and diagram shows 32-1/8.....the bottom 3 measurements equal 32-1/8, so I can either change front by 1/8" or when adding back make it 12-3/8 instead of 12-1/4

xanderman

Mon, 02/08/2016 - 09:49

I hope you don't mind me asking, but why is the top of the cabinet always set inside the carcass, beside the side front and back, rather than on top.

Wouldn't it provide a lot more strength by having the top set on a ledge?

Grandmawoodworker

Sun, 03/01/2020 - 18:40

Why is there so much of the back corner cut off?  I'm sure all walls don't have perfect corners but is this a lot of wasted storage space or is it really necessary to cut this much off the corner?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!