Build a Simple Playhouse Deck

diy playhouse deck
Difficulty
Advanced
| Print this plan

This playhouse deck uses standard 2x6 boards and minimizes scraps. Four feet off the ground, there is just enough clearance underneath to store toys under! Build a playhouse on top.

Dimensions
diy playhouse deck plans
Overall Dimensions for the basic platform is shown above. To make the swingset arm, you will need to review the dimensions from the first drawing. Composition is wood boards, painted and sealed for outdoor use. If you are not using the base unit for a sandbox (would make great toy storage!) then I recommend using treated lumber for the 4×4 posts and what would have been the sandbox sides. I was just talking with my husband’s uncle about using wood composite decking instead as it would last much longer, but is much more expensive. One of the factors is to consider the number of years the playhouse will be used, and then choose your lumber accordingly. Paint on boards properly maintained in a dry location could last your kids into college.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 – 4×4 Posts 8′ Long (3 if you are using the swingset option)
  • 29 – 2×6 Boards, 8′ Long (8 of these can be stud length 92 5/8″ if stud length is cheaper)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long (use for cross bracing)
  • 2-1/2″ Exterior Self Tapping Deck Screws
  • 2″ Exterior Self Tapping Deck Screws
  • Outdoor Paint or Stain
Cut List
  • 4 – 4×4 Posts @ 47″ (OR 2 @ 47″ and 2 @ 96″ for the swingset option)
  • 8 – 2×6 @ 92 1/2″ (Shorter Sides)
  • 4 – 2×6 @ 96″ (Longer Sides)
  • 8 – 2×6 @ 12″ (Diagonal Supports, both ends mitered down 45 degrees)
  • 16 – 2×6 @ 96″ (Deck Boards)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Build at your own risk. Work on a clean level surface. Choose a location that is level and dry to avoid water damage. Check for level after each step. Check for square after each step. Predrill all screw holes. Use necessary safety equipment and precautions.

Instructions

Step 1

Sides { Part 1 } Lay the 4×4 posts flat and attach the posts as shown above to the sides. Use 3″ screws. Also note that if you are building the swing arm, ONE of each of the posts on each side will be 96″ long.

Step 2

Sides { Part 2 } Now attach the remaining sides to the posts and sides as shown above. Use 3″ screws. Level the frame and adjust for square. Trust me, it will be a miracle if it’s square without adjustment.

Step 3

Diagonal Supports With the box nice and square and level, fasten the diagonal supports to each corner as shown above. This should stiffen up the corners considerably.

Step 4

Joists Mark out all of your joists on the sides, (the long sides) as shown above. Then screw the joists to the sides as shown above. Use 3″ screws.

Step 5

Step 6

Cross brace the base with 2x4s as shown in diagram, attaching with at screws into the framing.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Prime and paint with an exterior appropriate paint or stain with sealant.

Comments

Vina

Wed, 05/08/2013 - 19:53

I have made the deck but not sure how to add railings as there is no post. How can I add a post to the deck so the rails will be sturdy? Any info is appreciated.

By the way I am now addicted to dyi projects all because you make it so easy for us to follow. Thank you very very much for this.

dogmelissa

Sat, 08/15/2015 - 07:29

Help! I want to build this with a longer deck, so there's some deck beside the playhouse. The total length of the platform will be 10' long. In the exact orientation shown, the extra 2' will be to the left end of the house/platform. Can I run the joists in that 10' direction, cantilievered 2' over a dropped beam? Will I need to double the end joist on the other end? Are 2x6 joists still enough? Thanks for the help!

GusBank

Sun, 01/24/2016 - 13:39

Hello,

The area I have this playhouse isn't level. Could I use concrete DeckBlocks to hold the posts and, cut the posts in different lengths to level the upper deck? What should I do to prepare the ground for the concrete blocks?

 

thank you

eegad1973

Wed, 05/27/2020 - 21:08

HI, your site is amazing. I was looking to build something like this (newbie), but just encountered issues with tree routes so I had to abandon setting the posts in concrete. Do you think this structure would be stable enough if it is not set in concrete. I want it to be at least 6 feet off the ground and about 8 x 8 in size (plus a fort on top). The fort would also be about 6 feet high (7x6 structure approx). I want it near our trees just not attached to them. It is for older kids. It would save a lot of headaches if there was a way to build it without digging post holes!!! Thanks for any advice you can give!

woodrow76

Mon, 03/22/2021 - 10:31

Hello,

Question on the simple playhouse deck, will 3 inch screws hold the deck? I just want to be sure that they would work, with a playhouse and kids on it. I was thinking maybe something like, carriage bolts to be used to where the 2x6s and 4x4s meet up? If so, what size carriage bolts, would 3/8 inch by 6 inches in length work?

Thanks.

learning@home

Mon, 04/19/2021 - 10:35

In the plans it talks about 3" screws, but on the parts list you list 2 1/2" and 2" screws. I am assuming the 2 1/2" are actually meant to be 3"?

Thank you for your time and these plans!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!