Simple Rustic Table

easy to build rustic wood table
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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A beautiful, easy to build table that features a 1x top simple legs. This table is designed to look like something one might find and treasure. Step by step plans from Ana-White.com

Dimensions
dimensions for table
96" x 36" x 30" high (approximate)

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 4 – 2x2s, 8′ Long
  • 3 – 1×4, 8′ Long
  • 4 – 1×10, 8′ Long
  • 1 – 4×4, 10′ Long
  • 2″ self tapping wood screws (star bit)
  • 1 1/4″ self tapping wood screws (star bit)
  • (16) 3" long self tapping wood screws (star bit) for attaching legs
  • wood glue
  • wood filler
  • sand paper
Cut List
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 90 1/2″ (Side Aprons)
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 36″ (End Aprons)
  • 8 – 2×2 @ 34 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports)
  • 4 – 1×10 @ 96″ (Tabletop Pieces)
  • 4 – 4×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Legs)
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 12″, ends mitered at 45 degrees (cross supports)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
General Instructions

Predrill and countersink your screw holes. Keep outside edges flush. Take a square after each step. Work on a clean level surface and use necessary safety precautions.

Instructions

Step 1

Table Top Supports and Apron. Build the tabletop supports and aprons as shown above. The supports are spaced 10″ apart. Use 2″ screws and glue, countersinking the screws.

Step 2

Tabletop Pieces. Take a square of the tabletop. Then find the centers of the tabletop supports and the end aprons and mark. Line up the center tabletop pieces with these marks and fasten through the bottom using 2″ screws and glue. Minimize the gap between the tabletop boards as you go.

Step 3

Tabletop Screw Hole Patterns. Mark out the screw holes on the tops of the table as shown above. Then predrill and screw the tabletop pieces to the end aprons. Make sure the table is square prior to doing this. Use the 2″ screws and glue.

Step 4

Legs. Fasten the 4x4 legs to the aprons from the outsides with the longer screws. Do not use glue if you would like the legs removable.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
<p>
Fill nail holes with wood filler. Sand, distress, and finish as desired. Then send Ana your brag photos!</p>

Comments

PB (not verified)

Wed, 09/19/2012 - 14:52

The photo of the finished table does not seem to include Step 3 which calls for the table top to be screwed into the apron. Putting screws in the top would be fine if it's painted, but not if you plan to stain and finish the wood. In that case is the top screwed into the apron from underneath? Thanks, pb

ellen i (not verified)

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 03:29

I dont understand why the leggs have to be in two different sizes, 1x4 and 2x4?

Shari Hurley

Sun, 03/17/2013 - 14:20

Can someone give me tips on the best way to attach 4x4 legs to this table from the inside so they can be removed? If I go straight through there isn't much of the screw in the apron which seems a bit unstable for that size leg. L brackets? Thanks

Shari Hurley

Sun, 03/17/2013 - 14:21

Can someone give me tips on the best way to attach 4x4 legs to this table from the inside so they can be removed? If I go straight through there isn't much of the screw in the apron which seems a bit unstable for that size leg. L brackets? Thanks

swissgal908

Mon, 04/15/2013 - 03:49

I have found your page recently and I cant express how amazing and wonderful all your plans are.

I was wondering if it is possible or if any one knows the metric measurements for this table. I have tried converting this although the numbers seem a bit off.

I am currently living in switzerland and one can request wood to be cut in centimeters. The Height, Length and Width would be great if any one could notify me. Or knows a practical way of converting the measurements.

shavit

Fri, 06/07/2013 - 13:06

Hi. People often use a special bracket called a "Surface Mount corner bracket" to make the legs easily detachable. Instead of screws going directly from the apron to the leg, the bracket is what holds the apron corner together.

They can be difficult to attach correctly. Don't be afraid to file down the corner to get a good flat surface before attempting to sink the bolts in the legs. Let me know if you have a question.

mrc76

Tue, 10/29/2013 - 21:50

I would like to make this table but we don't have the space for a table this size. What would the cuts be if we wanted the table no bigger than 60 inches long?

SusieK

Mon, 12/02/2013 - 07:49

I made this table (well mostly,my 14-year-old made it) and love it! We purchased clear pine at HD which made the process go much smoother for us. He also used the Kreg for the boards - magic! He tapered the legs as suggested by other fans. (He's not your typical 14-year-old, by the way - so talented, lucky me.) The total cost for this beautiful 8 foot table was $140 which included the nicer wood, wood conditioner (don't skip this!), stain, and poly. Right now I'm waiting to put the third coat of stain on the top. I painted the apron and the legs a creamy white. So excited. Thanks Ana!

marchand

Mon, 03/31/2014 - 14:40

Hello, I wanted to make the rustic table but I don't see plans for the bench. Are there any?
Thanks! Michele
LOVE the site. Just finished the raised garden bed!

Christal Bailey

Thu, 03/26/2015 - 22:40

can someone please explain to me the reasoning behind the two different leg sizes? I want to make this table but the alternating leg size really bothers me. is it important?

devon1182

Thu, 07/23/2015 - 12:26

Hi Ana! We are getting ready to make this table tomorrow. YAY!! But we have a question, the diection say to screw the tabletop onto the apron from the top of the table. Is this correct or can it be screwed onto apron from the bottom? Thank you! 

2078jes

Sat, 09/26/2015 - 14:20

I would like to build this table but use legs from a previous dining room set. Has anyone done that...and would have made notes as to the best way to approach this?? I'm a newbie but plan on laying some Shabby Chic on this design! Thanks! 

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!