2x4 Truss Table

diy dining table ana white
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Make this table out of 2x4s! Free step by step plans by Ana-White.com

RELATED: Bench Plans

Hello, Happy Monday!


The table is made from leftover 2x4s and 2x6 tongue and groove from the cabin build.  I had originally wanted to use 4x4s for a beam table like this one,

But we did not have any 4x4s leftover.

So I went with a design using the 2x4s on edge.  

This did complicate things quite a bit - you'll need a tablesaw to bevel the top of the legs where it meets the table, and the bottoms of the legs are double beveled (all this is outlined in the plans), but definitely worth the extra effort!

I really love the simple base that leaves plenty of room for seating.  

It's nice to not have an apron to give you a little extra legroom as you sit on the benches (those plans I'll get to you real soon too!)

One of my favorite details is the lag screws that we used to attach 2x2s to finish out the ends -

I was a little skeptical before staining -

But after a coat of my favorite stain, Early American by Rustoleum (or Varathane, it's the same stuff)

Serious love!

So, what do you think?  Want this table too?  I'm hooking you up with the plans below (if this is the homepage you have to click "Read More" below).

Thanks so much!

XO Ana


PS - For a simpler design, check out this beginner truss table plan here!

And the matching bench plans here.


dimensions of table
This table is HUGE - dimensions shown in the diagrams


Shopping List
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 7 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List


  • 2 - 2x4 @ 38-1/2" long, top edge beveled at 10 degrees, bottom outside corners cut off at 45 degrees
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 28" long, one end cut at 10 degree ANGLE, long point measurement (will need to double bevel other end in step 1)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 29-1/4" - long point to long point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel


  • 7 - 2x6 @ 83-1/2"
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 38-1/2" (cut to fit)


  • 1 - 2x4 @ 72"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 29-7/8" - long point to short point, both ends cut at 50 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

This step is a little on the advanced side, so please don't take this project on if you don't have building experience or a table saw. You'll need to bevel the top edge of your 2x4s that are 38-1/2" long at 10 degrees, keeping the full length on the long point side of the board. Also cut the ends off at 45 degrees, half way down the ends of the boards. Make two of these, they can be identical. The legs are a little trickier because you'll need to make the four legs up from the 2x4s with one end cut at 10 degree bevel - but two will be cut one way, and the remaining two cut in mirror to the first two. So set your compound miter saw to a 10 degree angle and a 10 degree bevel, and measure down 25-7/8" from the short point of your angle. This will be the outside edge of your leg (you should mark it on top and bottom as outside edge). Cut with the point you measured being the long point. Make two of these legs. Now you'll need to adjust your saw so it cuts a mirror double bevel for your remaining two legs. Repeat. Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes at all the joints, and attach with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Make sure you place pocket holes on the insides of the legs where they won't be as visible. Also drill 1-1/2" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the tabletop in later steps.

Step 2

Build your tabletop on a flat level surface with glue. Here are some tabletop building tips to check out before you get started.

Step 3

Attach the legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws to the underside of the tabletop.

Step 4

Add the bottom stretcher, screwing down with 2-1/2" or longer screws. You can use pocket hole screws here so you don't have to go out and buy different screws.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Wed, 07/08/2015 - 09:22

I would like to suggest adding one or two diagonals to the end frames. This would greatly increase their stiffness. (Frames that include triangles are the stiffest and strongest.)

Very nice appearing design with effective use of the materials.


Sun, 09/27/2015 - 08:17

What are the black screws/bolts you use on the edge of the table top? Size, etc.


Mon, 12/07/2015 - 19:12

How do I get steps 6 through 27? I only see steps 1 through 5 here.


Thu, 05/24/2018 - 11:43

Hi Ana!

I was wondering what happened to the plan for the 4x4 Truss Beam table? Was REALLY wanting to build it but the link is down!

Please let me know, Thanks!!



Thu, 05/31/2018 - 15:55

Same here! Did you ever find them anywhere?  I am supposed to build them for a friend and now that I have come back to it they are gone!?  HELP!!!