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Fancy X Farmhouse Table

dark wood stained farmhouse table with X legs and cross bracing
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build the Fancy X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s and lumber for $65.  A reader favorite, this table has been built thousands of times!  

We also have plans for a matching bench and lots more farmhouse furniture plans.

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Essential
side view of farmhouse table with cross bracing

 

 

Video - Watch this Table Being Built!  

 

See More Photos and Build Post

This table was built in collaboration with my friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic.  Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.

This is my very favorite build yet! I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight. Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!

Head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!

 

Thanks Whitney!!!

Pin For Later! 

Fancy X Farmhouse Table

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse table with X bracing
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long

7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long

3” self tapping wood screws 

2 ½” pocket hole screws

2” finish nails

Cut List

ENDS

  • 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
  • 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”

 

MAIN TABLE

  • 2 – 2x4 @ 65”
  • 2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)
  • 4 – 2x10 @ 96”

 

** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:

  • 4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws

Step 2

Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side

Step 3

And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.

Step 4

And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8”  short point to short point. 

Step 5

Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends

Step 6

Followed by the little feet ...

Step 7

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges

Step 8

The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes.  But you will have to fill later with wood filler.

An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.

Step 9

And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.

If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.

Step 10

And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.

Step 11

For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Table Plans
Dining Table Plans
Room
dining room
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Philperrin

Sun, 09/06/2015 - 16:49

I think I might be reading something wrong, but I can get the angles in step 4 to add up. A 45 degree cut to make the 28 3/8 short to short entirely cuts off the 30 degree cut for the 32 5/8 long to long side.
Am I missing something?

Roccosworld

Fri, 09/11/2015 - 15:11

Does anyone have a recommendation on how to attach the table top? To eliminate gaps, would it be a good idea to attach the 4 2x10's together first, then attach the whole tabletop to the legs? Any thoughts?

JimmyC

Tue, 09/15/2015 - 06:13

After arranging the 2x10 boards on the garage floor to minimize gaps (e.g. trying to match up the board warps between them), I reduced gaps even more by hand planing the edges - ended up with just a few minor gaps (1/32") but nothing too bad.  I then clamped 2 of the 2x10's together while standing on top of them to get them even, then attached them with 2 1/2" PH (Kreg) screws - I got the idea from this guy's YouTube vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IT89XCa9Vk

Repeated with the other 2 2x10's.  I didn't have a 37" clamp (I had 36"!) so ended up using ratcheting tie-downs to cinch the whole tabletop together.  It ended up quite flat and with almost zero gaps.  I figured it's best to the get the tabletop flat and gap-free since that is what is visible.  If necessary, plane/sand down the leg tops to minimze gaps between the tabletop at legs.

trey.hemingway

Tue, 12/08/2015 - 12:31

I thought one table was childs play, so I built 8... in 56 hours.

"Nver Half Ass Two Things, Whole Ass Eight"

-Ron Swanson

melissafontes

Sat, 01/02/2016 - 07:51

I need to shorten this table a bit to fit my room better - maybe like by 4-6 inches off the length. An obvious fix for the tabletop BUT How does that change the length of the supports (or anything else for that matter) underneath? We are newbies to all this. 

Terrilynn08

Thu, 01/07/2016 - 07:40

So sorry if i missed this information somewhere, what exact color finish did you use? Is it a stain or paint? Absolutely in love and my husband is making this for me this weekend!! AHHHHHH cant wait 

Terrilynn08

Thu, 01/07/2016 - 07:40

So sorry if i missed this information somewhere, what exact color finish did you use? Is it a stain or paint? Absolutely in love and my husband is making this for me this weekend!! AHHHHHH cant wait 

Bobsurber

Fri, 02/19/2016 - 15:08

Do you have plans for this as a 12 foot table or what modifications would be needed to make this a 12 foot outdoor table?

 

Jtgrins

Mon, 02/22/2016 - 17:19

I think I might be reading something wrong, but I can get the angles in step 4 to add up. A 45 degree cut to make the 28 3/8 short to short entirely cuts off the 30 degree cut for the 32 5/8 long to long side.
Can someone please explain how u get 28 3/8 short point to short point without cutting off ur 30 degrees cut and turning it into 45?

 

    jesseroche

    Wed, 08/31/2016 - 08:22

    Im not sure if this will help you or if you made the same mistake I did but in case you did, I was cutting the 2x4's with the long side flat. I didn't realize that all my angles and measurments didn't add up until recently. I think you just have to flip it up onto the 1.5" side. I'm not sure on doing the rounded edges though. I'm doing mine straight.

    jesseroche

    Wed, 08/31/2016 - 08:22

    Im not sure if this will help you or if you made the same mistake I did but in case you did, I was cutting the 2x4's with the long side flat. I didn't realize that all my angles and measurments didn't add up until recently. I think you just have to flip it up onto the 1.5" side. I'm not sure on doing the rounded edges though. I'm doing mine straight.

    Pmeverden

    Sun, 04/03/2016 - 12:33

    I want to build this table for outdoors. I plan to cover the top to prevent damage but the legs will still get wet. I don't want to use pressure treated wood for many reasons. Can I use use pine from Home Depot and keep it stained and coated with spar? I live in Pennsylvania and. Have heard that Douglas Fir or Cedar would be good. Also I am concerned about the overall weight of the table. Has anyone used 1 x instead of 2x boards for the top.

    pixelthecat

    Tue, 05/31/2016 - 10:42

    Use something relatively weatherproof.

    Redwood is a good choice for softwood, but you'll still need to seal it with polyurethane. Pine (including doug fir) will not stand up to water particularly well and your hard work won't last as long.

    If price isn't a question, look at Teak, Cedar, or Eucalyptus, which are far more weatherproof than other woods. 

    BrittLee2307

    Wed, 04/06/2016 - 13:45

    I would like to be able to make the table top longer, in order to be able to use the ends as additional seating. What adjustments would I need to make, in order to ensure its a solid structrue? I plan on making 2 of the fancy X farmhouse benches and using them as seating, but also want to add a chair to either end of the table, so I'm assuming the top would need to be longer?? LOVE this table and the benches!!! LOVE your style and love this site!!!!!

    cdd1204

    Thu, 04/28/2016 - 15:57

    Love love this table!!  My husband and I built it but there are not instructions for attaching the top.  Can you please let us know how you did it?  Thank you!

    Amber Lea

    Sun, 05/08/2016 - 17:18

    I am still relatively new to work working. I have been slowly collecting tools to make this table. I love the chunky look of the 4x4 vs. the 2x4. I have been working on this for a few weeks and am really struggling. I am still on step 1 and am having trouble joining the 4x4s. Did anyone else have this problem? Is this a problem when using 2x4s? (I'm assuming with 2x4s clamps can be used?) Thank you for your advice!

    sjaustin

    Mon, 05/09/2016 - 14:10

    You could use clamps with the 4x4s, but I'm not sure that I would. I would just lay the pieces down on my work surface, measure, mark, pre-drill, and screw, holding the smaller angled piece in place with my left hand while screwing from the back of the long straight piece with the right. What exactly are you having trouble with? What in particular seems to be going wrong when you try to join the pieces?

    Amber Lea

    Tue, 05/10/2016 - 10:20

    I used the Kreg Jig HD to screw holes and when I try to join them I am struggling both to keep both pieces of wood aligned and to screw the PH screws in deep enough that the two pieces stay together. I am having trouble holding them together and pushing the screw deep enough that they stay together.

    sjaustin

    Tue, 05/10/2016 - 12:37

    The Kreg PH system isn't intended to be used for anything thicker than 1.5" (nominal 2") and won't work for 4x4s. I would use deck screws with a minimum length of 4". 

    AMMartin

    Thu, 06/23/2016 - 21:15

    Has anyone tried to put a different top on the table- I may have a good lead on some Quartz but not sure how sturdy the table is? I think it would weigh around 270 pounds! Thoughts, suggestions?? 

    Thanks! 

     

    AKSully

    Tue, 07/12/2016 - 12:01

    What is the best wood for using as a dining room table? Also how long should we let the wood acclimate to our living room climate before building? 

     

    Thanks so much

    loisknows

    Wed, 07/27/2016 - 04:06

    Building this giant table was super easy..and so much fun..sanding and staining it however, was a giant pain.  If I built another one I would sand and stain all the pieces first..then assemble it.  Just the angles and the overall size if it made it very hard to maneuver the sander..sanding and staining long straight boards would have been much easier.  Overall tho, I think it turned out quite nice ..plus I made the benches..the long ones ..now I wish I had made the shorter ones because they are so big..lol..they're very difficult to move ..and finding 8 foot boards that were straight and met up correctly was a chore all by itself.  Still a very fun project. And it sure does fill up our new patio.lol 

    Labuela

    Thu, 08/11/2016 - 09:35

    What are somej approaches / reocmmendations for attatching the top boards to the table base?  Pocket hole screws from the inside - I wish i would've drilled those before assembly.

     

    Thanks much.

     

    Joe

    sdoc

    Tue, 08/16/2016 - 10:30

    any changes you would recomend for making it only a 6' table. i cant fit this big of one in my dinning nook. :)

    jesseroche

    Tue, 08/30/2016 - 10:52

    I am considered a beginner but isn't a 45 degree cut of center just a 45 degree cut on a miter saw? I cut the wood at 45 degrees for steps 1-4 as directed and decided to see how it all matches up. To my surprise none of it matches up. I made sure the measurements from long end to long end were correct at 11 3/8 in and made 45 degree cuts (non parallel) at those points. When you connect those to the 20 inch piece in step 1 you dont get the 5 7/8 measurement (the distance away from the post). Likewise with steps 9,10, and 11. I choose to go with the straight 45 degree cuts, 34" long end to long end. When you make 45 degree cuts the short end to short end does not equal 31" for the next 2x4 thats suppose to go on top of that and the 1x4 is definitely not 28".  Please someone help me with this.  

    jesseroche

    Wed, 08/31/2016 - 08:15

    I haven't verified this but Im pretty sure i just need to flip the boards on the side. I was cutting them on the 3.5" side. Boom!

    LWags

    Sat, 09/03/2016 - 17:17

    adding this to the list of your tables for my hubby to make!! =)

    joshua.abbie

    Tue, 01/03/2017 - 11:10

    So we are both new to this, but does anyone have modifications to this plan that would involve the "breadboards" at the ends? I think that is what the horizontal boards are called on Farmhouse tables... We love this table, but would like to add the horizontal boards and aren't sure on how to make sure they are secure.

    Kplum

    Wed, 01/10/2018 - 17:44

    Has anyone used cedar for this build? Just curious which to use? Cedar? Or Pine?

    kirstenjohnson1994

    Mon, 01/22/2018 - 11:36

    I have plans to build something like this but have read a lot about how sometimes the wood warps overtime. I was just wondering if anyone has experenced this and if so are there ways of preventing it? Any information would be truly appricated!

    KevinMC

    Fri, 02/02/2018 - 18:35

    I think I know the answer but I'm a complete novice. If I wanted to build this table at counter height or 40", what adjustments would I need to make the length and/or angles of my base?

    k81180

    Thu, 02/22/2018 - 17:37

    I am hoping to make a couple of these tables this spring for my deck and wondering if there are any thoughts on how to add support for a couple added features listed below:

    - Umbrella hole - what are some recommendations to add support so when I drill a hole for an umbrella the table support is offset and not compromised.

    - Center rectangle in-set cooler or planter boxes: again any thoughts on best way to add support for the table as a whole for recessed planter boxes to be used for plants or as coolers for drinks.

     

    I am new to this wood-working world and any designs or tips/tricks for me to try would be appreciated.

    Thanks.

    Kate

    melbuckner

    Tue, 06/11/2019 - 16:12

    hey all, 

    Im 70% done with this table - just need to attach the table top to the frame.  Curious how to do that - I built the top with pocket holes, but as for laying on the frame - obviously I could drill down through the top but I think that looks tacky and it looks like from pics - people aren't do that.  

     

    How are you folks attaching the top to the frame?

    thanks - 

    Mel

     

    Kate M.

    Thu, 06/13/2019 - 12:01

    Hi Ana,

    This is the farmhouse table of my dreams. I'm trying to figure out how to alter the legs to the dimensions of the table we are going to build, which is 46.25x70. Is there a ratio that I can use? We can figure out the length we need if we still subtract the 4.5 inches from either end, but how can I figure out how long the angled pieces need to be?

    Thanks so much for your help,

    Kate

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Wood Questions

    What kind of wood should I use?
    Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

    Can I use hardwoods instead?
    Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

    What if my boards are warped?
    Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

    What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
    Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

    Will my wood move or warp after I build?
    Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

    Cutting Questions

    Do I need a miter saw?
    A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

    How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
    Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

    Will the store cut my wood?
    Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

    Joinery Questions

    What screws should I use?
    We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

    Do I have to use pocket holes?
    Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

    How do I keep things square?
    Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

    Finishing Questions

    Stain or paint before or after building?
    A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

    What type of finish?
    Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

    How to get a smooth finish?
    Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

    Plan Questions

    Can I change the size?
    Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

    Are these beginner-friendly?
    Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

    Can I sell what I build?
    Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

    General Questions

    What tools do I really need?
    A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

    Do I need a workshop?
    Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

    What if I mess up?
    Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

    What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
    Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

    I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
    Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

    Care & Maintenance

    How long will my furniture last?
    With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

    How should I care for outdoor furniture?
    Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

    How about indoor furniture?
    Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

    Want to Build with Confidence?

    Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
    It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

    Still Have Questions?

    Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!