Open Frame Laundry Basket Organizer

laundry basket organizer
Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Get the laundry baskets up off the floor and create a drying space with this easy to build laundry basket dresser.

This DIY Laundry basket organizer is made from 2x4 boards - Use most any laundry basket - this universal plan helps you design and build just the right size organizer for your laundry baskets.  Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

2x4 laundry basket holder
wood frame for laundry baskets
laundry basket stand
laundry basket dresser free plans

Why We Built this Laundry Basket Dresser

Laundry room cabinetry can be so expensive and complicated.  We just wanted a simple solution to get the laundry baskets organized, without breaking the bank.  This simple DIY project was the answer - just some 2x4 frames and a 1x top and it's all organized!

It's all I needed, and this project gives me more floor space and a countertop space on top.

I love that the top can be used as a drying rack too!

Quick Build Video for this Laundry Basket Dresser

Here's a very quick build video showing how this laundry basket dresser was built:

Video Coming Soon

 

MORE SIZE CONFIGURATIONS - Check Out the Double and Triple Wide Laundry Basket Dresser Frame

We loved this project so much, we had to make plans for the triple wide version! Click here for free plans.

laundry basket frame organizer

And also the double wide version (free plans here) -

 

double wide laundry basket dresser

 

 

Free Plans to Build Your Own Laundry Basket Dresser

Because laundry baskets can vary in size and shape, and you can orientate them width or depth wise, I created these plans so you can modify them to fit your own laundry baskets with ease.  Here' the free plans:

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Open Frame Laundry Basket Organizer

Dimensions
universal laundry basket organizer plans
Alter size to fit your laundry baskets

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2x4 boards (about 3 - 2x4x8' as shown)
  • 1x4 or 1x6 boards for top 
  • 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws
  • 1-3/4" self tapping wood screws
  • wood glue
  • Laundry baskets (recommend the sterilize bushel series)

 

Cut List

Measure your laundry basket as shown below:

measuring laundry basket

Then use these three measurements to come up with your cut list:

LEGS: 4 - 2x4 - find the length of your legs by following directions below:

  • Measure the height of one laundry basket and add 2" - this is the clearance needed per basket, should be about 13"
  • Now multiply this number by the desired number of baskets in a column (as shown this is 2 baskets), number should be around 26" for two baskets, 39" for three baskets high
  • Add 3" for the top and bottom supports - number should be about 29" now for two baskets, 42" for three baskets high
  • This is the minimum cut length for the legs.  You can always add more height to the legs, for example if you are trying to get a specific height for the finished tabletop.

RUNNERS: 2x4 @ Overall Depth Measurement, cut 2 per basket - this is the basket depth on the sliding side

HORIZONTAL FRAME: 4 - 2x4 @ Inside Lip Measurement + 3" - this is the width of the basket that will sit between the cleats

1x6 TOP = Cut 1x6 to match Depth of Baskets, quantity depending on top size

 

 

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Circular Saw

Instructions

Step 1

Figure the length of the legs and cut four legs from 2x4s.

Figure the length of the supports and cut four from 2x4s.

Attach together with the supports inside the legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Build two identical frames.

Step 2

Measure and mark out the location of the runners.

The bottom runner will be spaced the overall height of the laundry basket (including the lip) to the top edge of the runner.

ALL other runners will be spaced above the bottom runner by the overall height of the laundry basket plus 2".

Attach with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 3

The top can be 1x4, 1x6, or other tabletop material. Leaving space in between will allow for air flow and could be used as a drying surface.

Evenly space the boards and attach with 1-3/4" self tapping screws.

Step 4

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

olds1368

Sun, 12/28/2014 - 19:41

Saw this and made it tonight in roughly 3 hrs. Very simple directions and this was a lot of fun to build for my first project!

apickle

Sat, 08/14/2021 - 15:22

Be careful when making these plans as the laundry baskets shown are 26 and 3/8inches long, while the inside deminsions shown are 23 and 3/8inches. And they don't make laundry baskets that will fit inside the current plans demensions, that I can fond anyways. So you will need to adjust the plans accordingly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!