Surf Bus or Van Loft Bed

surf bus or van loft bed
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Dream kids beds can come true!  This DIY surf bus or van loft bed is easy to build with step by step plans, including diagrams, shopping list and cut list. Average cost: $225 in materials

Kevin modified this bed plan for his son, and built it (including paint, hardware, etc) for about $225 with basic tools - circular saw, drill, jigsaw, and a pocket hole jig.  

Here's from Kevin:

"I wanted a design that could be easily moved without totally destroying it, hence the lag bolt design.  I built the bed in our garage, painted it, then took it apart to move upstairs into the bedroom.  I did this mostly because I was working on it in the evenings after the twins were in bed.

Also, I am a civil engineer and have a professional engineering license that would allow me to design a bridge or skyscraper – needless to say this thing is sturdy!  I didn’t want to worry about it falling down if the whole family was up in it."

Also check out Kevin's brag post here.

 

 

 

 

 

Dimensions
surf bus van loft bed
dimenions shown above, designed for twin mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

3 sheets of 1/4" to 1/2” plywood, paneling or MDF (this is just decorative cover of the bus part)

16 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

5 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

3 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long

2- 1x2 @ 8 feet long (for front grill)

8 - Lag bolts (4” bolts) – the bed deck is easily removable (can also just use 3" screws to attach together)

2-1/2" pocket hole screws

1-1/4" finish nails or screws (for attaching plywood)

2" wood screws (for attaching upper rails)

Cut List

BED PLATFORM

2 - 2x4 @ 39"

2 - 2x4 @ 72"

3 - 2x4 @ 36"

1 - 1/2" plywood or MDF @ 39" x 75"

 

BED LEGS

8 - 2x4 @ 73"

8 - 2x4 @ 17"

4 - 2x4 @ 39" (end supports)

 

UPPER RAILS (measure and cut to fit)

1 - 1x4 @ 75"

2 - 1x3 @ 75"

1 - 1x4 @ 54 1/2"

2 - 1x3 @ 54-1/2"

1 - 1x4 @ 42-3/4"

2 - 1x3 @ 42-3/4"

1 - 1x4 @ 43-1/2"

2 - 1x3 @ 43-1/2"

 

BOTTOM PLYWOOD

4 - 1/2" plywood or MDF @ 29" x 24"

2 - 1/2" plywood or MDF @ 29" x 43"

 

LADDER

2 - 1x6 @ 56-1/2" (shortest point measurement, bottom end cut at 5 degrees off square)

4 - 1x6 @ 15-1/2"

 

ACCESSORIES

Wheels are 16" diameter circles cut from the plywood scraps

Grill is 4 - 1x2 @ 32" and 2 - 1x4 @ 9"

Bumpers are 2x4 - cut to fit Headlights are 4" and 6" rounds (can cut from plywood or try craft stores for precut wood rounds)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Frame up the bed platform with 2x4s. Use 1-1/2" setting on your pocket hole jig to drill holes, and attach with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Attach 1/2" plywood or MDF to top of framing. Use either glue and 1-1/4" finish nails or 2" wood screws.

Step 3

Build four legs as shown in diagram with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Mark each of the leg sets at the height you want the bed. Then attach the bed platform to the legs from the inside with 2-1/2" screws or lag bolts.

Step 5

Step 6

Next attach the end rails to the legs and side rails with the 2" wood screws.

Step 7

Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x4 bottom supports and attach with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 8

Cover the base of the bed in plywood or MDF - use the 2" wood screws if you need the pieces to be easy to disassemble. Otherwise you can use nails and glue.

Step 9

Cut the wheels out of scrap plywood and attach to side panels. Use a single bolt in the center if you'd like those wheels to spin.

Step 10

Cut to fit bumpers for the front and back.

Build the grill with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and attach with finsih nails and glue to front.

Headlights are 4" and 6" rounds that can be cut from plywood.

Step 11

For the ladder, attach the rungs on underside with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Round top edge with jigsaw. Attach with screws to inside of 2x4s on bed.

Comments

dbovill

Tue, 04/08/2014 - 13:22

This plan includes the details for the ladder but the bed is picture with the side stairs. Do you have the plans for those as I'd rather have those for my three year old.

Kevin Jehl

Thu, 04/10/2014 - 04:55

I made the stairs with some leftover 3/4" birch plywood that I had laying around from a built-in bookshelf project I'd done. (although MDF would work just fine too)
The plywood was 11" wide. All I did was cut it at 45 degrees (because I had a carpenter's square that allowed an easy cut at that angle) at a length that would square it with the floor and top of loft deck. I then squared off the overhang.
After that I just added steps, in my case 5 steps felt like the right number (again, done with leftover plywood scraps).
I trimmed it out with simple trim and then painted it white.

Sorry I didn't keep any measurements, the ladder was basically just thrown together quickly!

Livia

Fri, 08/08/2014 - 17:13

I love your bed! Planning on making one for my sons' car themed room. Curious about what type of paint you used and if you painted the boards prior to building? Thanks so much and great job!
Livia

Luciana-

Sat, 02/06/2016 - 21:40

I do not understand what a kregjig is? what exact kregjig did you use for the bed? and is there any other safe way to make this bed without using  that special tool? also, I wondered if you have more detailed steps showing where the screws/bolts are and how they are applied. Thanks for the share.

Luciana-

Sat, 02/06/2016 - 22:37

Thanks for the nice plans, Do you happen to have a more etailed plan of where the screws are placed and what size?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!