Simple Lift Top Storage Bed

lift top storage bed frame diy plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Add extra storage to a room by building a simple lift top bed frame.  This wood platform bed creates easy access to lots of storage.

Optional caster wheels, legs, or can be set directly on the floor.  Free plans in full and queen size.

Why a Lift Top Bed?

A lift top bed is an easy way to create maximum storage in a bedroom, without the bed appearing complicated with storage drawers or shelves.  

  • The storage is not as easy to access as a drawer, but with the assist of the lift top hardware, it is not difficult. 
  • This becomes a great place to store out of season items, extra blankets, or just things that you don't need everyday but can't part with.
  • There is also more storage in a lift top bed than a traditional captains bed or storage bed, since the entire inside of the bed is accessible.
  • This bed is actually pretty easy to build too - much easier than a bed with drawers or shelves.
  • It does become cumbersome to move into a room when fully completed, so do consider how you will move the bed into the room before final assembly.

Why I Built This Bed

A few years back we built a tiny house and everything inside it.  Here's the link to the loft system with bed and storage video and project and  the Tiny House series if you want to catch up.

Instead of a sofa, I decided to use the foot of a bed as seating. 

The bed can be pulled fully out and becomes a full size bed.  So basically, it's a trundle bed, but it is never fully pushed under the main bed.

To create storage for the bedding, the trundle bed is actually a lift top storage bed.

Here's the video on how we built it and use it -

 

 

 

 

 

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Simple Lift Top Storage Bed

Dimensions
storage bed with lift top
full or queen size mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

FULL SIZE SHOPPNG LIST

  • 2 - 4x8 sheets 1/4" plywood for the bottoms
  • 1 - 4x8 sheet 3/4" plywood
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 5 - 2-1/2" caster wheels (we did three swivels and two locking) or furniture feet o
  • 3 - hinges
  • Bed lift kit suitable for full size mattress (we used this one)
  • Edge banding for finishing plywood edges

QUEEN SIZE SHOPPNG LIST

  • 2 - 4x8 sheets 1/4" plywood for the bottoms
  • 1 - 4x8 sheet 3/4" plywood
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 5 - 2-1/2" caster wheels (we did three swivels and two locking) or furniture feet
  • 3 - hinges
  • Bed lift kit suitable for queen size mattress (we used this one)
  • Edge banding for finishing plywood edges

TIP: If setting directly on the floor, use a 1x10 instead of the 1x8s for more storage.  Furniture glides or levelers on the bottom will help protect the floor.

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

FULL SIZE CUT LIST

  • 2 - 1x8 @ 75"
  • 3 - 1x8 @ 52-1/2"
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 54" x 37-1/2"
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 75" 
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 48" x 75"

QUEEN SIZE CUT LIST

  • 2 - 1x8 @ 80"
  • 3 - 1x8 @ 58-1/8"
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 60" x 40" - bottom
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 80"
  •  1- 3/4" plywood @ 48" x 80"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Iron for Edge Banding

Instructions

Step 1

Build the frame out of 1x8s.

You can build in a number of different ways. We used 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, but you could also use 2" self tapping star bit screws, or glue and  nails with reinforced corners.

Step 2

Attach 1/4" plywood to the bottom with 3/4" brad nails or staples and glue. Use the plywood factory edges on outsides to help you square up the project as you attach it.

Step 3

Attach caster wheels to the base. You may need to add blocking inside at the corners to the 1x8 boards to support the caster wheels.

You can alternatively use a bed leg , just make sure the weight is transferred from the 1x8 sides to the bed leg.  Hairpin legs or metal legs would be great choices.  Just make sure the center is still supported.

Another option is to set the bed directly on the floor.  I do suggest a furniture glide foot to help protect the floor like these.

Step 4

Now nail to the top the 1x6 or 1x12 board.

Step 5

Apply edge banding to the outside edges of the top.

Attach with hinges to the top.

Step 6

Follow directions on bed lift kit for attaching the springs to the plywood and bed cavity. We adjusted ours quite a bit to get it just right.

Comments

hughsmith

Mon, 04/25/2016 - 13:56

I love your Tiny House... No that you've actually lived in it, if you were to modify your Tiny House to fit a bathroom and a shower, where would you suggest putting it? Any ideas?

Thanks.

- Hugh

mconrad

Wed, 01/04/2017 - 19:57

Anna, thank you so much for your site and plan sharing.  We will be building the lift bed and storage bed at our lake house (it has vaulted cieling] what kind of wood do you use?  Pine? I just want to make sure it is sturdy.  What about your outdoor furniture?  Is it a harder wood? 

Love all the plans I will post pic when we are done. 

Margie

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!