One Piece Play Kitchen

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Hi Everyone, a huge thank you today to Rebecca for building this project!  The goal of this plan is to create a play kitchen that is one piece, perhaps a little more compact without losing the storage.  Rebecca did such an amazing job on it!
Thanks Rebecca!

Ana and I talked quite a bit about what my first project would be. I was planning on making the play kitchen for my daughter for her birthday and Ana mentioned she had this already drawn out. AWESOME, considering that her birthday was two weeks away at this point and I had another project I still needed to paint taking up all the room in my garage. I also love this one because it had that little extra storage space and counter space.


I am listing this as an intermediate project really only because you will be using a few different tools, there are a lot of different cuts, and there is a vast a mount of "thinking" that should go into this. I learned this the hard way. I am normally pretty good at thinking things through. However, I am going to just say it. This is definitely a project that you should look at the final product in your head WAY before you start doing anything. All the little details make a big difference when building this.

Few notes after building.
-I pre-painted this project. I am usually so excited to start building and seeing it take shape that I don't think about it. This was SO much easier. There were a lot of pieces. I measured and drew lines where boards where going to be glued together and did NOT paint there. This allows for better glue adhesion.

- I put my shelf on the back wall prior to putting it in place. This helped stability when screwing in my shelf however I did not pre-drill my faucet hole. PRE-DRILL your faucet hole before putting the back on. It will save you from trying to drill in too tight of places.

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

3 1x12's @ 8'
1 1x4 @ 8'
2 1x3's @ 8'
1 1x2 @ 8'
1 4x4 sheet of 1/4" plywood
1 8"x10" piece of acrylic plastic

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

1x12's
1 @ 46 1/2"
1 @ 36" (sink and rounded edge)
1 @ 32"
1 @ 30"
1 @ 29 3/4"
1 @ 20"
1 @ 18"
1 @ 17 3/4"
1 @ 16 1/2"
2 @ 14 1/4"
1 @ 6"

1x4's
1 @ 30"
2 @ 14 1/4"
2 @ 9"
2 @ 5 1/4"
3 @ 2 3/4"

1x3's
2 @ 19 3/4"
2 @ 14"
4 @ 11 1/4"
2 @ 8 3/4"

1x2's
1 @ 46 1/2"

1/4" Plywood
48" x 32 3/4" Kitchen Backing
12 1/4" x 9 3/4" Freezer door backing
12 1/4" x 20 3/4" Fridge door backing

Cutting Instructions

-You could also use bead board for the fridge backing.
- I got my acrylic in that stock size at local Home Depot (but you must use the 1x4's for the stove door frame so it is the right size opening.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Remember to do this step BEFORE adding the shelf

Step 7

Step 8

Step 9

THINK about this step. Choose your sink faucet and knobs BEFORE you make this cute. I went ahead and cut this without thinking about it and did not have quite enough room for my faucet and knobs. Remember that you will be adding a back onto the top of this section so that will take out some room. I also did not have a sink before I cut, so then I had to improvise and ended up building a "under-mount" sink. If you do it like this, then I would make it an inch less deep so hat there is 3 3/4" inches in the back where your faucet will go.

Step 10

Step 11

I did not end up adding the bottom supports. I just did some pocket holes to put the shelf as floating since I went for a more modern look.

Step 12

Step 13

Step 14

I just glued my door backings on for now. Eventually I will get a rabbet router bit so they will be more inset into the back of the door.

Step 15

This is how I cut my 1x12's for best efficiency.

Step 16

Here is a pic of my "under-mount" sink. This was my solution for cutting a hole and not finding a sink to fit in that hole. I of course had to measure and cut VERY specifically to get it flush and then still had to do some very close "shaving" on the table saw to get it to fit exactly.

My back splash is really just a few different kinds of scrapbook paper cut into squares and mode podged onto the wood under the shelf. I wanted a tile affect and am pleased that it turned out so well for like $2 extra dollars.

Step 17

I loved the idea of doing a grill like a fancy stove would have. I just cut an extra hole same size as the sink and then glued a 1/4" piece of plywood to the bottom of it. I cut a dowel to size and then drilled the same size holes (as the dowel) into a 1x2 and then cut it down the middle on the table saw so I had two pieces with half a hole just perfect for the dowel. I spray painted black and then a slight mist of silver over the top to get that "grill " look.

Step 18

I used magnetic paint on the insets of the fridge and freezer. I did three coats and still should have done a few more. You have to lay it on thick.

Step 19

Step 20

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

spiceylg

Thu, 01/05/2012 - 06:14

This is amazing and the attention to detail impressive! Great job!

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 01/05/2012 - 06:19

Darling children and a wonderful job on the design and the build. I love the extra customizations like the grill. Kudos!

GUEST (not verified)

Thu, 01/05/2012 - 14:22

I had been wanting one of these for my tall 4 year old. I would love to make her one and just adjust the height for her!!

Scott K (not verified)

Thu, 01/05/2012 - 19:45

I just undertook my first woodworking project and it was a kitchen for my little guy. He loves it and plays with it every day for most of the day. While I am proud of it, this one makes me very jealous! Perhaps I can do something like this in the future for someone else. Magnificent job!!!

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 01/06/2012 - 19:06

I sell appliances and kitchen your details are beautiful. the cooktop looks real. Thanks for giving the steps you did to get that look.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/08/2012 - 13:48

Hi great kitchen i read in your list you use plywood for the back.

What kind of wood did you use for the main parts of the kitchen?

also just to clarify as im a novice,
in your shopping list you give your sizes as;

( 3 1x12's @ 8')

does this mean quanitiy 3 1"inch thick 12"inch X 8"inch

or quanitiy 3 1" thich 12 foot by 8 foot.
please explain the dimensions.
Thaks
Dan UK

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/08/2012 - 13:48

Hi great kitchen i read in your list you use plywood for the back.

What kind of wood did you use for the main parts of the kitchen?

also just to clarify as im a novice,
in your shopping list you give your sizes as;

( 3 1x12's @ 8')

does this mean quanitiy 3 1"inch thick 12"inch X 8"inch

or quanitiy 3 1" thich 12 foot by 8 foot.
please explain the dimensions.
Thaks
Dan UK

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/08/2012 - 13:48

Hi great kitchen i read in your list you use plywood for the back.

What kind of wood did you use for the main parts of the kitchen?

also just to clarify as im a novice,
in your shopping list you give your sizes as;

( 3 1x12's @ 8')

does this mean quanitiy 3 1"inch thick 12"inch X 8"inch

or quanitiy 3 1" thich 12 foot by 8 foot.
please explain the dimensions.
Thaks
Dan UK

In reply to by Guest (not verified)

claydowling

Sun, 03/25/2012 - 15:59

What Tina says is accurate. But something that trips a lot of people up the first time is the fact that the wood is not actually one inch thick. It will be 3/4" thick in the store, although it was 1" when they cut the rough lumber out of the log. It will also be about 11 1/2" wide.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/08/2012 - 13:51

Hi great kitchen i read in your list you use plywood for the back.

What kind of wood did you use for the main parts of the kitchen?

also just to clarify as im a novice,
in your shopping list you give your sizes as;

( 3 1x12's @ 8')

does this mean quanitiy 3 1"inch thick 12"inch X 8"inch

or quanitiy 3 1" thich 12 foot by 8 foot.
please explain the dimensions.
Thaks
Dan UK

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/08/2012 - 13:51

Hi great kitchen i read in your list you use plywood for the back.

What kind of wood did you use for the main parts of the kitchen?

also just to clarify as im a novice,
in your shopping list you give your sizes as;

( 3 1x12's @ 8')

does this mean quanitiy 3 1"inch thick 12"inch X 8"inch

or quanitiy 3 1" thich 12 foot by 8 foot.
please explain the dimensions.
Thaks
Dan UK

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/08/2012 - 13:51

Hi great kitchen i read in your list you use plywood for the back.

What kind of wood did you use for the main parts of the kitchen?

also just to clarify as im a novice,
in your shopping list you give your sizes as;

( 3 1x12's @ 8')

does this mean quanitiy 3 1"inch thick 12"inch X 8"inch

or quanitiy 3 1" thich 12 foot by 8 foot.
please explain the dimensions.
Thaks
Dan UK

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 01/08/2012 - 13:51

Hi great kitchen i read in your list you use plywood for the back.

What kind of wood did you use for the main parts of the kitchen?

also just to clarify as im a novice,
in your shopping list you give your sizes as;

( 3 1x12's @ 8')

does this mean quanitiy 3 1"inch thick 12"inch X 8"inch

or quanitiy 3 1" thich 12 foot by 8 foot.
please explain the dimensions.
Thaks
Dan UK

Gary (not verified)

Sat, 01/14/2012 - 12:04

i am going to build this for my girls, only thing i am going to change on it is maybe a shelf or 2 in the fridge, GREAT JOB!!!!!

Amanda Watts (not verified)

Sat, 06/30/2012 - 21:00

What did you use as your "faucet" handles, spout, and for the knobs on the stove?

Chchd (not verified)

Sat, 11/03/2012 - 13:40

In the process of building this for my daughter for Christmas. Where did you find your sink, faucet, and knobs?

bcy419

Wed, 11/18/2015 - 08:52

I'm also interested in this project and can not see the pictues after step 15. Please add if possible. Thank you!

socalboarder

Thu, 07/14/2016 - 11:56

I wanted to let people know before they make the same mistake I did.  I started cutting my 1 x 12's yesterday and was following the cut diagram.  The bottom board that is shown has the 46.5" board and ends with a 6" cut.  The top board also has a 6" cut so you end up with two 6" boards and one 14.25" board.  The main cut list shows that you need one 6" board and two 14.25" boards.  If you cut that 6" board out of the last board, you won't have enough length to get the second of the 14.25" boards you need.  I just had to run out and buy another 1x12x4' to make the last 14.25" board.  Just beware.  Thanks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!