Rustic X Console Table

ana white rustic x console table
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build the super popular Rustic X Console Table with Ana White plans.  This woodworking project has been built thousands of times and loved the world over.  Its made of construction lumber (yes, 2x4s!) and the plans are easy to follow.  

Also in this Collection: Rustic X Coffee Table Plans, Rustic X End Table Plans and Rustic X Bench Plans

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ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table

Rustic X Console Features

  • Solid wood design accepts stain beautifully and paints up nicely
  • Extra long length perfect behind sofas, sectionals, as a dining room buffet, or under the TV
  • Storage shelves perfect for displaying and storing 
  • Storage shelves fit most standard baskets
  • Beautiful planked top is full of texture
  • Step by step plans have no exposed screw holes

 

This beautiful Rustic X Console was built by Hillary from The Friendly Home.  I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!

 

Easier to Build Option: Farmhouse Console Table Plans

For beginner or novice builders, we have added a easy to build option for this plan, the Farmhouse Console Table plans.  It does NOT require pocket hole screws and is less expensive to build (but there is exposed screw holes).  There is also a video tutorial to help with the build.

 

 

Pin For Later! 

Rustic X Console Table

Dimensions
rustic x bench plans dimensions diagram
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
  • 3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • Corner hardware/decorative bolts
  • 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2" screws
Cut List
  • 12 – 2x2 @ 30”
  • 6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
  • 2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
  • 5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
  • 3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"
Cutting Instructions

NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First build two frames as shown in diagram.

Step 2

Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" pocket holess with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws later on.

Step 3

2x4 end supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Measure the width of your 1x12s and cut the 2x4 supports to match this width.

Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 1-1/2" pocket holes with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Add trim to the shelf.

Step 5

The X can be cut by just placing the uncut board alongside it's permanent position, and marking the overlap with a pencil, and then cutting the pencil lines with a circular saw or jigsaw.

First do the longer piece, then place inside the project, but don't attach yet.

The figure the smaller piece cuts and make those cuts.

Fit the smaller pieces in the project, and trace where they need to be joined to the larger piece.

Remove all pieces and attach the smaller pieces to the longer piece.

Then place the entire X inside the opening and attach.

Step 6

And then add the top. You can build top first with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you.

TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

allisonschuetz…

Tue, 06/30/2015 - 19:34

We are new to furniture building and am wondering the best way to attach the 2x2 to the 2x4 in the very first step of the build. At an angle? All the way thru the 2x4? So confused right now lol

mlambert527

Tue, 07/07/2015 - 07:36

Can't wait to make this to store my record collection and stereo (will need to change dimensions a little to allow 12" albums). I am having the hardest time finding the decorative corners. Any suggestions of where to find these?

zachbrun

Tue, 07/14/2015 - 08:17

Hey Guys, 

Everything went well with the table, and it looks great, but make sure everything lines up well before you make cuts for all of the wood. I would suggest cutting your 1x12s to size and then make sure you are cutting to exact lengths for the 2x2s on the sides. Remember that many 2x4s are not precisely 4 inches in width so that may alter the actual length you need for your 2x2s on the sides. Also, MAKE SURE YOUR 2x4s FOR THE SUPPORTS ARE THE EXACT LENGTH OF YOUR 1x12 WIDTHS. Some vary in width from 11 1/4 inch to actually 12 inches. Heed the discalimer at the top of the page that encourages you to read the entire page before starting.

 

Otherwise. Enjoy. I had a great time once I realized I couldn't rely on the cuts of wood to be the exact width. Beginners mistake.   

DonnaH

Thu, 09/03/2015 - 17:11

Hello Ana!

Your designs are FAB!!  I'm interested in making the Rustic X Console but don't want the length to be 8'.  I have space for 5' max.  What would be the measured cuts for the materials list?  Apologize that I'm not good at math-changes.  I've made your farm bench and am in love with it!!

Donna H.

 

 

itzdonna

Thu, 09/03/2015 - 17:53

Ana. Thanks for sharing your talents. We're going to assemble the table but are unsure of drilling the pocket holes. When connecting 2x2 to 2x4's I'm assuming we drill the pocket hole into the 2x2 but everything I'm reading states to put a minimum of 2 pocket holes to prevent it from rotating?  Question being, will a 2x2 allow for 2 pocket holes given it's small size?

mlambert527

Sun, 09/20/2015 - 09:28

I'm in the process of making this table, and can't figure out how to clamp the shelves to the rails to keep them flush when driving in the screws. The screws are coming out the top of the rail because the shelf lifts up above the rails. Can you give instructions on how to clamp for Step 2?

A Carew

Sun, 10/18/2015 - 07:18

Hi everyone, thanks for the great post here.  After reading through the comments and plans, I don't see what the shelves are made of, or where they exist in the "shopping list".  I see the top planks, but are the middle and bottom shelves just 1/2 or 3/4  in ply?  I'd love to get going on this, but want to have everything lined up before I get in a groove.  Thanks for your help here!

Ana White Admin

Sun, 10/18/2015 - 10:32

All of the information is in the cut list, scroll down from the shopping list to see it. Hope this helps!

A Carew

Tue, 10/20/2015 - 15:40

I saw the cut list, but wasn't clear where the shelves came in to play.  My math skills stayed in bed, but now I see.  I appreciate you replying and for this awesome post.  Just finished my home depot trip!

A Carew

Tue, 10/20/2015 - 17:47

I saw the cut list, but wasn't clear where the shelves came in to play.  My math skills stayed in bed, but now I see.  I appreciate you replying and for this awesome post.  Just finished my home depot trip!

ozziegolf05

Fri, 01/22/2016 - 16:09

When staining, do I brush a layer on, wait a few minutes then wipe it off? Seems all of my pieces come out dark or reddish/rustic. 

MrSpkr

Sun, 01/31/2016 - 13:13

Because of limitations on equipment, I'll be having to back into the angles for the "X" bars on the console.  I know the length from long to short points are 22.5" and 11.25" respectively; however, I need to know what the shortest length of wood for eac piece will need to be.  For example, I know the longest pieces will be more than 22.5" because the 22.5" does not measure from longest point to longest point.  Anyone have an easy answer for me?  Trying to wrap up this severely late Christmas gift for my daughter.

Danijohnson48

Mon, 02/01/2016 - 12:41

So I am beyond a beginner but I have been eyeing this console table for over a year and I just need to have it. I'm planning on using it more for storage for my little boys toys so I am wanting it to be a little taller like buffet height of 36 inches. Knowing nothing about carpentry, how hard would that be to modify these plans to add an extra 6 inches in height? Only the legs and X's would really be affected right? Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated! 

Palle

Fri, 03/18/2016 - 00:12

Hi! Love this build. I will build this one soon. But where to get the nails and bracket

 

regards

EricEdward

Sat, 03/26/2016 - 05:33

I tried to make the stain with vinegar and 000 steel wool for this project. It has been sitting for 5 days in a sealed container and I still just have shredded steel wool in vinegar. It has not broken down or changed color at all. Not much to mess up here so apparently this does not work.

asmith6613

Sun, 04/03/2016 - 15:15

Thank you very much for sharing this awesome furniture plan,  my Fiance fell in love with the look of the console, especially the rustic coat!  My question was about possibly finishing with a polyurethane coat to seal in the color for years to come.  I wasn't sure if this would be a good idea to prevent the iron acetate coat from rubbing off with time or if it would alter the rustic color in any way?

smileyelf

Sun, 04/10/2016 - 10:48

I cannot tell how to build frame from diagrams, I am a beginner at this . Instructions say to build two frames, how do you attach the upright pieces to the cross ones ? It says to use pocket hole screws and glue. Horizontal pieces appear to be 30" long , do you drill pocket hole under piece into upright 2x4 ? Sorry if this the wrong place to get help, could not find another way. Thanks in advance

JulieJabs

Sat, 06/18/2016 - 09:15

I too am terrible at math but need to build this like yesterday!  I love it!  Can someone tell me about the shelf and  top measurements if my space to work with is 5' long (can go a little more if needed), 38" tall including top, and 13" deep. I feel like I'm going to have to change too many numbers for me to be confident doing it myself ;-) that would be awesome if there was a calculator to input your info! Any help is appreciated, can't wait to get started!!! Thanks

LWags

Sat, 09/03/2016 - 11:30

Where did you find that corner hardware?  I've been looking everywhere! =) 

pcodonnell

Thu, 09/08/2016 - 14:54

The link to the PDF version of the plans for the rustic-x-console doesn't seem to be working.

Can you email me the plans to the address in my profile?

My daughter is eager to have me help her build this unique unit.

Peter

Cobbmv

Thu, 09/08/2016 - 20:45

I'm trying to re-create this table exactly, and I've finished with the build but don't know what stain to use? I love this color and would love to have it in my living room!

Js8478

Fri, 10/21/2016 - 19:05

Hello, I'm planning on starting this build and the rest of the Rustic X collections, but I'm only curious to what wood was used in the console, coffee table and end tables? I've looked through comments but haven't found an answer. I appreciate the free plans, I'll post the results as soon as I'm finished :) 

NYstyle

Sun, 10/23/2016 - 16:37

I've doubled checked all my measurments and they're all good. The only issue that I'm having is the "X". By my measurement it should be 24 1/2, not 22 1/2 like the plan calls for. Am I doing something wrong here?? thanks.

robp

Mon, 01/02/2017 - 22:05

Does anyone have suggestions for where to get the corner hardware/decorative bolts? I really like  the character it gives the table, but don't know where to find it. Thanks for posting the steps to build this!

hart1860

Fri, 01/20/2017 - 07:10

I can't find what the corners of the table top have on them (brackets?) and the bottom legs have bolts in them...I don't see those in the plans, anyone have an idea what exactly was used and if they are bolts are they deep into the wood or just enough to go into the 2x4?

 

Thanks in advance, can't wait to build this!

Ajmolfetta16

Thu, 01/26/2017 - 16:22

ann,

i want to make this for my girlfriend, however I want the height to be 35" with a length of 48". What's the easiest way for me to convert a the measurements to match this? 

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!