Smith Media Wall: Center Media Hutch

Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free easy plans to build a media hutch from Ana-White.com. Features crown moulding and three top cubby shelves and one adjustable shelf.

Hi Everyone!  So glad you loved our newest media suite plans!  If you are looking for a simple media center with lots of storage, this might be the one for you!

Uncle Bill built this media hutch, and he added a few details to make it perfect for their space.  Like the console, he built the hutch 6" wider (for a 48" width) than called for in the plans.  He also ripped strips of 1x2s down to 3/4" wide, and attached to the face of shelves and around the top to finish out the project.  He really did a beautiful job on this project!

The console looks taller, but that is not the case.  What Uncle Bill did here was place the adjustable shelf under the tv instead of above it like shown in the diagrams.  And because the tv weighed quite a bit, he cut another divider, and placed it under the bottom shelf.  This created two very nice spots for media controllers and more storage, and raised the tv height.

When you build, you should always make it your own!  We also used PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood in Birch to match the Alaska Birch face frames.  This is a healthy, economical, and much easier way to build than wrestling with expensive solid wood throughout the project.  If you haven't already, take a second to check out PureBond Plywood.  

Of course, the plans follow!  And we'll be posting a few more plans in this collection so you can get the entire media suite, without going broke!  

Disclosure: All opinions expressed in this post are my own.  I do however work with Columbia Forest Products and PureBond Plywood.

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above. Note: As pictured, media center hutch has been altered to 5" wider than plan.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 sheet of 3/4” plywood ripped into strips 15 3/4” wide (referred to as 1x16 in this plan)
3/4 sheet of 1/4” plywood
1 - 1x3 @ 4 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 10 feet long
Recommend 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and 1 1/4" finish nails

Cut List

1 - 1x16 @ 46 1/2” (Top)
2 - 1X16 @ 55 3/4” (Sides)
2 - 1X16 @ 14 3/4” (Dividers)
2 - 1X16 @ 41 1/2” (Shelves)
1/4” PLYWOOD 56 1/2” x 43” (Back)
1 - 1x4 @ 41 1/2” (Base support)

FACE FRAME
1 - 1x3 @ 46 1/2”
1 - 1x4 @ 40”
2 - 1x2 @ 55 3/4”

Crown moulding cut to fit. Crown must be no wider installed than 1-3/4” and no taller installed than 3”.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building the main box. Note that the top overhangs the sides for the crown. We do this so the top is solid for extra storage up there as well.

I recommend drilling adjustable shelf pin holes now on the insides. Another option is to drill 3/4" pocket holes on the underside of the adjustable shelf and then just finish it as a shelf. When you install your tv, you can attach the shelf at the desired height with pocket hole screws.

Step 2

You'll need something at the bottom base to keep the sides from splaying out.

Step 3

Next, attach the back. Use 1 1/4" finish nails to attach to the side boards. To attach to the base board, you'll need to use nails less than 1" long or they will poke through the other side.

Step 4

Next, build your face frame. Then attach face frame to front of cabinet.

Uncle Bill also ripped 1x board down and used them to trim out fronts of shelves and dividers, just to give it that finishing touch and for consistency. Painters, you could probably fill the plywood edge and sand well and paint.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

cathryn

Thu, 03/07/2013 - 10:14

Perfect timing, we are hoping to build an entertainment center to house not only the tv and components but maybe also some of the in wall speakers. Turns out the wall we want to use is a shear wall and we want an easier way to mount the in wall speakers and handle all the wires without chopping tons of holes in the structure. Our plan is no where near done yet so these plans help so much.
Can I ask: how are the wires managed? Are the holes in the shelves or on the back of the unit?

claydowling

Thu, 03/07/2013 - 10:36

Good high quality plywood such as Ana used is a real joy to work with. If you can't find purebond easily, talk to a local lumber yard. Even if they can't get purebond, they can find another formaldehyde free cabinet grade plywood, and you can get it in most common domestic wood species. Absolutely great stuff.

If you're adventurous you can also get solid wood without breaking the bank, but you'll have to hunt. There are half a dozen small timber operations around me with excellent prices on wood. You'll have to dig on the internet to fine them, but they're worth it. I just purchased premium wood at a non-premium price for my wife's china cabinet from a local supplier.

jrbamberg

Mon, 03/25/2013 - 13:19

Where and what kind of crown moulding did you get? Is there birch crown moulding at Home Depot? If I wanted to stain this project it would make sense to have all the same type of wood so the finish and grain matches. Birch plywood, birch trim, birch moulding correct? When I go to Home Depot online I see a lot of moulding that is already prefinished or has primer on it. Please fill in the hole in this wonderful plan for me. Thank you.

pacefamily6@gm…

Sun, 10/23/2016 - 19:26

What do you recommend as the best way to alter these plans to fit my space?  I keep looking at it and it's just a few inches too long.  My wall is 98.5", so I need to shorten the cabinets on the ends or the center piece.  In doing this by only a couple of inches to get it into my space, I know that changes everything on the shopping list and what I'll need and the cut list.  Is there an easy way to do this?  I am guessing that I'm going to have to go through the plans and just go piece by piece shortening everything to the length and width that I need.  If there's an easier way, I would love to know!  Thanks so much!  Your site is very inspirational!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!