10 Tips for Building Tabletops

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Tips on building a tabletop from Ana-White.com

You can build a nice tabletop with a drill, saw and a Kreg Jig. Here's my top 10 tips for building your own tabletop with a DIYers set of tools.

If you've got more tips to add, please do so in the comments - we'd love to hear your tips and tricks too!

Instructions

Step 1

Build Tabletop First

Build your tabletop before your table base, if you can. Because board widths can vary, sometimes your tabletop comes out a little smaller (or bigger) than you intended. If your base isn't built yet, you can alter the base size to fit the tabletop you built.

Of course, you can always cut down a too big tabletop, or add more boards to make a small tabletop larger.

Step 2

Plan Your Tabletop to Minimize Scrap

If you are building a table without a plan, consider designing your tabletop size so there's minimal board waste. For example, you can get three 31-3/4" cuts out of an 8 foot long board. Or two 47-3/4" long cuts out of an 8 foot long board.

That said, if I had to choose between less scrap boards and getting the tabletop size that perfectly fits my space, I'd go for the perfect tabletop size. Just because it's scrap doesn't' mean it's waste.

Step 3

Find the Happy Medium on Board Widths

Consider building your tabletop out of boards about 6" wide (1x6 or 2x6), or close in size (I use x4 and x8 boards on occasion). If you go smaller, you'll be adding more joints, which means more pocket holes and more sanding. If you go with a wider board, the board itself may cup over time, creating high and low points on your tabletop. I personally find x6 boards to be that happy medium.

Step 4

Cut Your Boards Long

Cut your boards a little long. Then when you go to assemble your tabletop, build it so one end of the boards are flush, but the opposite ends are long (and most likely uneven). Then when you finishing joining your boards, you can go back and trim the uneven long ends for a perfect tabletop.

TIP: To save on cutting when your tabletop is 48" (or half the length of your boards), simply cut a 8 foot board in half. Join the boards, with the cut edges flush, and then trim the uncut factory ends off square.

TIP: To help you attach boards square on one end, clamp a square board to your tabletop, perpendicular to the tabletop boards. As you assemble the tabletop, keep one end of the boards flush to the clamped board.

Step 5

Preventing Cupping

That square board you are about to build a tabletop with used to be part of a round tree. Over time, your boards may cup, meaning the center of the board - widthwise - may rise or fall inward, simply because the grain of the wood is curved. To prevent your entire tabletop from cupping one way, alternative the end grain of your boards.

Step 6

Use Pocket Holes to Join Board on Underside

I wish we all had a joiner and a planer and a biscuit joiner at our disposal - but the good news is you can still use a pocket hole jig to build a very nice tabletop (the same tool you'll use to build the table's base).

Drill pocket holes along one edge of all but one of the boards. Start with the board that has no pocket holes and work outward, attaching with pocket holes. Use clamps to ensure your joints are even, and work off a level surface.

Use glue between the boards, but make sure you wipe off excess glue (glue will prevent stain from soaking in).

Step 7

Strongbacks

We call them strongbacks and we use them on every tabletop we build. It's just a scrap strip of 3/4" plywood, with 3/4" pocket holes drilled about ever few inches. The strongback is attached to the bottom of the tabletop as the glue dries. The square edge of the plywood prevents the tabletop from warping or cupping as it dries. Then we remove the strongbacks (and save them for the next tabletop) when we attach the tabletop to the base.

TIP: If you are concerned about cupping, consider cutting to fit permanent strongbacks, hidden on the underside of your tabletop.

Step 8

Sanding

Sanding is definitely a dirty word around here. If you are sanding a tabletop, you are going to come back covered in sanding dust.

We use a belt sander for the first sanding, using the belt sander to minimize any differences in height between boards. Be careful to only sand in the direction of the wood grain. Any cross marks might not be discernible until you go to stain the tabletop.

After the belt sander, we finish the tabletop with a palm sander in a fine grit sandpaper. Of course, I sand between coats of poly too, so don't put that sandpaper away just yet.

Step 9

Attaching the Tabletop

I love being able to use pocket holes to attach a tabletop from the underside, so no screw holes are showing. This works great for projects that have plywood sides or large aprons, or small tabletops.

But when you get a much larger tabletop (especially ones with small aprons or no plywood underneath)- you've got more opportunity for movement. A small cupping across each board can become substantial across an entire tabletop. Consider attaching your tabletop with tabletop fastners. You just make a small cut in the aprons with a circular saw, insert the tabletop fastner (also called Z-Clip) in the cut, and attach other end to the underside of the tabletop.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type

Comments

Hokulani1

Tue, 05/20/2014 - 08:33

Great tips! I'm not quite clear when to use table fasteners. I've built your farmhouse table a couple of times which I would think is larger and has no plywood underneath. I assume I didn't need them for it since you didn't mention it. Do you have an example of a project that would need them? Thank you!

DonAndStaci

Wed, 05/10/2017 - 09:19

If you want your table top -- any table top -- to actually ast without bowing/cupping/twisting, you MUST attach it in a manner that allows for seasonal wood movement. Wood is an organic product, and it naturally expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. I'll post link below to a couple of options that you can cheaply buy which will allow you to securely attach a tabletop while still giving the wood the flexibility to move with the seasons. When you buy decently-made furniture at a store, they all accommodate for this one way or another. Don't just screw the top down to the legs or the skirt...you'll regret it later on.

 

Z-fasteners:

http://www.rockler.com/table-top-fasteners

Figure-8 fasteners:

http://www.rockler.com/desk-top-fasteners

 

There are YouTube videos that show how to attach tabletops using both of these tried and true methods. If you don't have a router or a biscuit joiner to make the holes for the z-fasteners, you can always use a drill. For the figure-8's, you need to recess them so they're flush with the apron...so for that, you would need to use a router. If that's not somethig you can do, I suggest sticking with the Z-fasteners. Best of luck!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!