Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Difficulty
Intermediate
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tutorial for industrial pipe bed from Ana-White.com

Happy Friday Folks!

I can't tell you how excited today to share these brand spanking hot off the press plans with you today!!!

My dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wanted to collaborate on a industrial style bed for her son's room, so we hatched a plan involving screw together iron pipes and wood slats.  And this is what Jaime came up with!

What could be better than a bed made of iron pipes?  Why one with some wood mixed in too!

This is truly a one-of-a-kind unique piece, that you can only get by DIY-ing!

Are you smitten or what???

Jaime has been so generous to share these plans with you below - seriously, this one really is all her and her step by step instructions are meticulously detailed - so please, take a sec to stop over and check out her building post and say THANK YOU for this awesome tute!  

Thanks Jaime!!!

Plans follow!

Have a great weekend.  XO Ana + FAM

Dimensions
Pipe & wood slat twin bed Overall dimensions: 45”h x 79”l x 41 ½”w Headboard: 45”h x 41 ½”w Footboard: 35”h x 41 ½”w Floor clearance: 10”

Preparation

Shopping List

Shopping List
2 – 1x8x8 pine boards
1 – 1x8x6 pine board
2 – 2x4x8 studs
8 – 1x3x8 furring strips
2” wood screws
1 ½” wood screws

ALL GALVANIZED STEEL:
*2 – 1” pipe @ 75”l
*4 – 1” pipe @ 18”l
5 – ¾” pipe @ 36”l
14 – 1” nipple @ 8”l
4 – 1” close nipple
14 – 1” threaded tee
4 – 1” 90 degree elbow
4 – 1” x 1 ¼” coupling (feet)
2 – 1” threaded coupling
10 – 1” x ¾” bushing
20 – 1” split ring pipe hanger
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cramik-Enterprises-1-in-Galvanized-Split-Rin…
*cut to length and threaded at hardware store

Cut List

WOOD CUT LIST
5 – 1x8 @ 37 ¾”l (wood slats)
2 – 2x4 @ 74”l (platform supports)
16 – 1x3 furring @ 41 ¼”l (mattress supports)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Notes: No glue was used on any pipes or pipe-to-wood connections. Only hand tighten until your are confident of pipe placement, it took me multiple tries to get it all connected just right – lots of screwing and unscrewing to figure out the proper connections - but that’s the beauty of working with pipe.

The most difficult portion will be connecting the siderails to the footboard and headboard since the pipe screws together in the same direction on both ends (if you’re screwing in one end essentially you are unscrewing the other end simultaneously). Follow the step by step instructions carefully.

Step 2

Build only one leg of the footboard as shown by screwing the pieces together until snug.

Step 3

Prepare horizontal pipe support pieces as shown.

Step 4

Prepare ONLY the foot portion of the other leg (1 x ¼ coupling, 1” x 8” nipple and 1” threaded tee) and connect 1” x 75”l pipe to this foot portion only.

Step 5

Step 6

Prepare wood slats. Predrill 1 ½” from outer edge for 2 split ring pipe hangers.

Step 7

Attach pipe hangers using 2” wood screws, be sure hanger is perpendicular to wood board

Step 8

On the footboard slip one end of wood slat into completed leg side of footboard then with other end of wood slat in place screw in the next 1” x 8” nipple pipe piece. DO NOT TIGHTEN PIPE HANGERS YET.

Step 9

Screw on next tee piece then screw next ¾” horizontal support pipe piece:

• Tip: screw horizontal pipe all the way into the completed leg side first then connect to other leg. It’s a give and take with the horizontal pipes and bushing pieces because they all screw in the same direction, eventually they will get tight just keep working back and forth from one side to the other.

• The paper towel wrapped around the joint is preventing oil from dripping onto the floor. (The ¾” x 36” pipe is a stock item but my Home Depot was out at the time therefore I had to have those pieces cut, when they cut the pipe they use a thick dark oil which seeps a bit once settled.)

Step 10

Center wood slat between horizontal pipes with even spacing on both top and bottom then secure pipe hangers to pipes with equal pressure on both screws.

Step 11

Prepare the next wood slat and repeat the process adding another 1” x 8” nipple. On top of the nipple screw in one 90 degree elbow. On the open end of the elbow screw in one 18” piece of 1” pipe and on the completed leg side screw in the other 18” pipe with a coupling. Tighten the pipe hangers and screw together the middle portion of the coupling and pipe.

(headboard pictured above but we’re finishing the footboard)

REPEAT steps 8 – 11 for the headboard.

Step 12

Build the mattress platform. Attach cross supports to studs using countersink and 1 ½” wood screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

DecorSanity

Sun, 02/23/2014 - 10:07

Wow, I am super impressed Jaime & Anna. A lot of times we do knock-offs, which is awesome because the pieces are classic, but you've come up with something totally original and awesome! I love the combo of the pipe and the warm wood. It looks stunning on that wood floor Jaime. Great job!!

Carpenters_Daughter

Thu, 08/28/2014 - 22:19

This look is awesome! This is totally outside of the box for me. My husband and I want to adapt it to make a futon that converts to a bed for our craft/guest room. Any ideas on how we can make this work?

babcockam

Fri, 10/17/2014 - 10:06

I Love this bed! I would like to make 2 of them for a couple teenage boys. Can you tell me the rough cost for 1?

 

Thank you!

daemon82

Thu, 09/10/2015 - 17:21

We were really interested in building this project, but we priced it out at our local hardware store and it came to around $300. It's really cool looking, but I don't think we'll end up doing it.

Jethro

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 11:09

Apologies for coopting this post, but I think it's useful information:  if anyone wants the parts or a lit for this project, I have them.  And I'll customize to suit your requirements too.  BEST OF ALL, my pipe is already cleaned and painted. 

Jethro

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 11:13

Would anybody like a kit for this?  I have a little store that sells already cleaned and painted iron pipe parts (at about the same price as the big box guys sell their nasty greasy stuff), and I'm wondering if anyone would like to see this project turned into a kit?

swanwhitecurtain

Fri, 02/23/2018 - 13:24

To cut down cost, instead of buying 1" tee fittings and then 1"x3/4" bushings to accomodate the 3/4" horizontal pipes, could you buy 1" tee fittings that reduce to 3/4" in the center? Would that be any different?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!