Rustic X Console Table

ana white rustic x console table
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build the super popular Rustic X Console Table with Ana White plans.  This woodworking project has been built thousands of times and loved the world over.  Its made of construction lumber (yes, 2x4s!) and the plans are easy to follow.  

Also in this Collection: Rustic X Coffee Table Plans, Rustic X End Table Plans and Rustic X Bench Plans

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ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table
ana white rustic x console table

Rustic X Console Features

  • Solid wood design accepts stain beautifully and paints up nicely
  • Extra long length perfect behind sofas, sectionals, as a dining room buffet, or under the TV
  • Storage shelves perfect for displaying and storing 
  • Storage shelves fit most standard baskets
  • Beautiful planked top is full of texture
  • Step by step plans have no exposed screw holes

 

This beautiful Rustic X Console was built by Hillary from The Friendly Home.  I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!

 

Easier to Build Option: Farmhouse Console Table Plans

For beginner or novice builders, we have added a easy to build option for this plan, the Farmhouse Console Table plans.  It does NOT require pocket hole screws and is less expensive to build (but there is exposed screw holes).  There is also a video tutorial to help with the build.

 

 

Pin For Later! 

Rustic X Console Table

Dimensions
rustic x bench plans dimensions diagram
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
  • 3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • Corner hardware/decorative bolts
  • 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2" screws
Cut List
  • 12 – 2x2 @ 30”
  • 6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
  • 2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
  • 5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
  • 3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"
Cutting Instructions

NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First build two frames as shown in diagram.

Step 2

Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" pocket holess with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws later on.

Step 3

2x4 end supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Measure the width of your 1x12s and cut the 2x4 supports to match this width.

Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 1-1/2" pocket holes with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Add trim to the shelf.

Step 5

The X can be cut by just placing the uncut board alongside it's permanent position, and marking the overlap with a pencil, and then cutting the pencil lines with a circular saw or jigsaw.

First do the longer piece, then place inside the project, but don't attach yet.

The figure the smaller piece cuts and make those cuts.

Fit the smaller pieces in the project, and trace where they need to be joined to the larger piece.

Remove all pieces and attach the smaller pieces to the longer piece.

Then place the entire X inside the opening and attach.

Step 6

And then add the top. You can build top first with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you.

TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

brittmc

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 07:36

Hello all!

I am going to make this but I want it to be 42 inches tall, 34 inches wide(with no middle support) and 16 inches deep. There would still be two shelves but one shelf would be higher than the other because on the bottom shelf i am putting dog bowls. In your opinion would it still be okay if the middle shelf didnt line up exactly with the center of the X on the sides, instead it would be higher? Let me know. I just dont want the doggos to bumb their heads.

Skodimer

Mon, 01/08/2018 - 17:23

I'd like to build this and add six inches to the height for a retail display. What is a formula I can use to determine the cut angles for the X's once I've determined my measurements? Or is there another way to figure that out?

tdk5005

Wed, 01/10/2018 - 12:51

Can you help me understand pocket hole size? For example, when the plans say 1 1/2" PH what exactly is that that? 1 1/2" diameter? 1 1/2" length?

kconner24

Thu, 02/01/2018 - 12:35

Love this table!  We are currently working on building it.  Did you purchase the decorative corner hardware like this, or did you buy galvanized and paint it?  Either way, where did you purchase it?

Thanks in advance!

ortho1121

Sat, 02/24/2018 - 11:57

To make the 60 degree cuts on your miter saw simply place a speed sqaure along the fence. This puts the wood at a 45 degree angle to start and then you just set your saw for 15 degrees. I use this when putting up picture framing on a wall going up a staircase where high angle cuts are needed.

newtodiy24

Mon, 02/26/2018 - 07:04

Does anyone know what the cost of this project comes out to be around?

jhoffbuhr

Sun, 03/04/2018 - 21:07

I have cut all the wood that was on the list, but my 2x2's (30 in ones) are not flush on the 2x4. Was I supposed to rip them down to a smaller size? I would appreciate all the help you can give.

RSQMonkeyII

Wed, 03/07/2018 - 12:59

Does anyone ever share their SKetchup Plans on here>  I want to convert this project to a coffee bar with a large blackboard and a shelf above.  Just checking before I build it from scratch.

Robb

tinajay

Wed, 04/03/2019 - 10:42

I believe in the linked post she said she just spray painted them black, but I have seen the black corner hardware on Amazon, don't know about the bolts

 

XOpTiMoX

Mon, 10/21/2019 - 11:12

The plan was awesome and I changed a few things (length and no center shelf) as Th looks we wanted didn’t require the length or center shelf, but The corner hardware and decorative bolts, where did you pick these up from? I can find any anywhere local. Thanks shins for the great plans!

alansari

Sun, 11/24/2019 - 16:16

Hello ana I apologize to you because I use Google Translate and my words may be incomprehensible I thank you from the bottom of my heart for your efforts and support to your followers I am very happy to follow your work and spend long hours on your page greeting love to you and your followers and the nice American people
We are a group of Saudi Arabia

daf4tee

Sun, 12/22/2019 - 17:32

On Step 5, what did y'all do for connecting all of these pieces besides glue? I was thinking of brad nails as it's not for support and more decorative. Any suggestions? 

mooreheadp

Sun, 01/05/2020 - 17:48

I finished building the two frames and am getting ready to attach the shelving but I realized that some of the 2x2s did not get glues down well and are loose. Is there anyways that I can make the bond stronger between the 2x2 and 2x4? I have already filled in the pocket hole screws and sanded them down.....

cjurado

Fri, 04/10/2020 - 12:12

Is there an easy conversion to slats from the simpler console? the math isn't working in my head

chaig44

Tue, 04/14/2020 - 15:38

This project looks great, looking forward to building! Can you just clarify a few details on some things, specifically on Step 2?

On Step 2: Where are the PH being drilled and how many? How is the 1x12 being attached (is screw going into end grain?) Thanks in advance for any help!

bmw_923

Mon, 05/18/2020 - 20:26

Hi Ana!! I love this table and had my eye on it for some time. I'm new to building and ready to build, however there use to be a design link for the Rustic X without pocket holes. Now, I only see the farmhouse console table. I was wondering if you could share the plans for this build without pocket holes? Thanks so much in advance🙏🏽

andycoker

Tue, 10/20/2020 - 14:58

Thank you the plans. I combined these with the other easier plans to create my own table. Using pocket holes the entire way. I painted the bottom half white and the top is stained minwax slate with a polyacrylic gloss finish.

zee104

Wed, 12/09/2020 - 21:24

For the X pieces on the sides how did you connect the small ones to the large one and then attach it onto the frame?

jaa

Sat, 01/16/2021 - 07:47

I am new to Kreg jig and am making the Rustic X console table. How close can you put the pocket holes together in the 2x2? It doesn’t seem wide enough to fit 2 holes since they would be so close to the edge. Couldn’t this break the edge of the 2x2?

jennlemley12@y…

Mon, 03/01/2021 - 12:23

Help! I can't get the Xs to work out. I think its because my 1"x12" was a full 12" wide and not 11 1/4". I've tried three different combinations, but I can't figure out the angles of the ends and the length of the X pieces.

pebbles

Sat, 03/12/2022 - 14:55

Hi!’
I feel a bit dumb because I have read through the plans several times but cannot find the shelves specified in the material or the cut list. Are they sold a standard size? Are they plywood? Sorry about this but I’m not from the US so maybe everybody knows something I don’t haha.

Thank you!!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!