Large Henry Desk

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

build a pottery barn hendrix inspired desk - free plans from ana-white.com

One of my favorite projects I've built of recent is this workbench style desk -

Not only do I love how it turned out, and how inexpensive it was to make (it's just 2x and 1x boards!), but how easy it was to build!  In fact, I built this desk with a baby just a few weeks old!  All by myself, since the hubs was busy babysitting.

Having the right tools definitely helps, but that doesn't mean your tools have to be expensive.

A Ryobi drill with a cordless circular saw and battery and charger is just $79!  I used my Ryobi drill to make this desk.

Ryobi also just came out with a cordless stapler that will staple up to 1-1/2" staples.  I used that to attach the trim.  I use the stapler quite a bit for smaller projects - holds better than a nail.

I loved this desk so much, I wanted to also share with your plans for the larger, 85" desk.  I envy you if you get to build it!

Plans follow!

And also check out the small desk plans here.

Enjoy!

XO Ana + Family

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x4 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
3 - 1x2 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
1- 1x6 @ 3 feet long
2- 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
24"x96" pine project panel
1-1/4” and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” staples
Wood glue
Handle or knob
Optional decorative vise

Cut List

2 - 2x4 @ 63-1/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (top aprons, front and back)
1 - 1x4 @ 70-1/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (back base support)
2 - 1x6 @ 16-1/4” - (back vertical supports)
4 - 2x6 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (legs)
4 - 1x4 @ 21” (side aprons and base supports)
2 - 1x4 @ 28-7/8” - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (side cross supports)
1 - 2x6 @ 30-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (decorative front leg)
3/4" thick tabletop or pine project panel @ 24" x 83-1/2"
2 - 1x2 @ 24” (side top trim)
Cut front top trim to fit - angle will be 10 degrees

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Attach front / back aprons to legs, flush on top and legs, with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. The two should match perfectly.

Make sure you also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the tabletop in later steps on the apron insides.

Step 2

On the back, attach the back supports, this time use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws since these boards are 1x stock.

Step 3

Attach the front and back panels together with the 1x4 boards using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Trim top off the cross supports and glue and nail to the side supports with 1-1/4" fastners (I used staples).

Step 5

Step 6

Attach false front leg with glue (I just clampled and glued but you could also throw a few 2-1/2" screws in from the back side).

Step 7

Trim out ends with 1x2s, flush to top.

Step 8

Trim front and back out with 1x2s.

Step 9

For the vise, I used pipe fittings and screwed a wood dowel in. Those are all 3/4" pipe fittings.

Step 10

I did not do the drawer so instead just put a handle on to get the look.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Gordon_Shumway

Tue, 04/08/2014 - 20:40

What is the vise used for on this desk?

The desk looks great just like everything else here.

Edit: Ok so I just went to PB's site and it says " Details like a faux vise and an asymmetrical drawer lend authenticity" So I guess its some peoples version of Authenticity.

angelina.davydova

Wed, 04/09/2014 - 11:35

cool desk!! I am a newbie, and still a bit confused with inches and feet :)) Since I live in Europe here they sell wood in cm:))

jkeeter

Sun, 03/22/2015 - 17:38

Would love to know what stain you used as well. It looks fantastic and still has a rustic quality.

jkeeter

Sun, 03/22/2015 - 17:38

Would love to know what stain you used as well. It looks fantastic and still has a rustic quality.

Mark33319

Thu, 05/28/2015 - 11:01

I would like to make this desk look a bit weathered/dated with a coastal look... Does anyone have any ideas or directions for staining to achieve this effect?

Thanks, Mark

kay h

Thu, 11/04/2021 - 20:33

I’m very excited to build this desk! Do you have recommendations on how to add a large drawer (like you do in the X desk with drawer plans)? I’m tempted to use that method, but worry about sacrificing the structure of the long front apron

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!