Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size. Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.
This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan. We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.

Preparation
- 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
- 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
- 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
- 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
- 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
- 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
- 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
- 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
- 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.
Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Aaron_n
Mon, 01/08/2018 - 17:48
Quick question
Can this table be built without the stretcher and bottom apron? Or will it make it less sturdy
Crabbman
Tue, 01/16/2018 - 09:14
Pocket Holes
On the breadboard ends, I would recommend not driving the pocket hole screws into the end grain. This is not how they are designed and will loosen over time. You can simply flip them around so they go OUT of the end grain and INTO the bread board.
HikingStick
Mon, 04/20/2020 - 05:49
MOST IMPORTANT COMMENT (Pocket Holes)
^THIS^ is perhaps the most important comment on this post.
The next is not too glue between the breadboard ends and the tabletop.
diozsa
Thu, 01/18/2018 - 16:34
Some tips - for absolute beginners
This was my first wood project ever. I did not have any kind of tools or knoledge.
Thanks to Ana's website I mustered the currage to take on this project. Thank you Ana! I am happy with how the finished product turned out.
I just want to leave a few tips for anybody that is an absolute beginner with wood working - things that I have learned along the way.
wingnut2000
Tue, 02/20/2018 - 07:37
Table Ends
I am finishing up the building part of this table but the ends are real flimsy. i was worried about that when is seen the design? anyone got a fix for the flimsy 2x8s on the end of the table top?
wingnut2000
Mon, 03/05/2018 - 10:36
never got a response from
never got a response from anyone so i just notched out the 2x4's up top on the ends and ran two 2x4's the length of the table plus about 4" past each end to help carry loads on the bread boards. i think it even added character to the table. i cut a 45 off of each end to dress the boards up a little and seems to support the bread boards well
TheExodu5
Sat, 08/24/2019 - 17:21
I recommend using an HD…
I recommend using an HD pocket jig and HD screws, and ensure that the end piece joints are centered over the end of your base, that way the 4x4 legs will overhand and provide support.
This plan used to have instructions to glue the end pieces, but I'm guessing someone realized that would end up splitting the table top when the wood expands/contracts.
hawkingbrandy
Tue, 05/21/2019 - 23:25
Good work Ana!
Good work Ana!
.dani
Mon, 05/27/2019 - 17:42
Question
I was browsing youtube and came across a video that said the way most farmhouse tables are made doesnt allow the wood to swell and contract like it does sometimes and it leads to cracks in the table. Has another had an issue with that? Also have people ripped the edges of the boards to get a more flush fit and then palm sanded over it to get a table top woth less grooves and cracks for crumbs to get stuck in?
TheExodu5
Sat, 08/24/2019 - 17:25
I would suggest finding a…
I would suggest finding a wood source that sells dressed, kiln-dried furniture grade lumber. I was able to have a nearly flush surface by buying the right wood.
If you want a perfect surface, you'll need access to a jointer.