Simplest Outhouse Plans - Beginner Friendly!

best diy outhouse plans for beginners homestead off grid
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Build the best off-grid outhouse with this beginner-friendly, budget-conscious plan! Designed for remote cabins, campsites, or emergency use, this compact outhouse is optimized to save you time, money, and materials—while still being super functional and easy to build. Free plans by Ana White include step by step build plans, materials list, LOTS of brag posts and photos, and photos of the build process.

outhouse plans free off grid homestead beginner simple to build

Why This is the Best Outhouse Plan on the Internet:

  • 🪚 Optimized for materials – Designed to use full sheets of plywood and a single piece of tin roofing, which means way less waste and lower cost.

  • 💰 Budget-friendly – Fewer materials = less money spent. No specialty tools or expensive hardware needed.

  • 🚛 Portable or permanent – Build it on-site or pre-build and move it into place. Great flexibility depending on your needs.

  • 🔨 Beginner-approved – Step-by-step plans make this totally doable for DIYers with basic tools and skills.

  • 📏 Compact & efficient – Similar in size to a powder room, this outhouse fits well in tight spaces without sacrificing comfort.

  • 🧼 Clean and dry floor design – The built-in deck-style flooring keeps dirt and moisture from collecting inside, making it easier to maintain.

  • 🌲 Perfect for off-grid living – Whether you’re at a cabin, campsite, or homestead, this outhouse is built to last in the outdoors.

 

Why I Built this Outhouse

In Alaska, where temperatures get so cold, composting toilets don't work unless you supply heat to them constantly.  So the great majority of cabins and second homes are dry, freeing the homeowners up from wasted heat and frozen water lines through the cold months of the winter.  

There are a lot of outhouses in Alaska - even our rest stops, bathrooms at the city park, and the majority of remote cabins have outhouses.

I needed an outhouse for a remote project, but didn't want to build it in the sticks with the bugs and mosquitos.  So I designed this outhouse to be built in my workshop, move it out the garage door, and haul it to the work site.  

 

Video of the Outhouse Plan Being Built

We love this video by Girl in the Woods of building this outhouse plan!

 

 

How I Built this Outhouse

I built this outhouse entirely by myself.  Here's how:

 

I framed up two walls using 3" self tapping star bit screws.

I attached 1/2 inch sheathing plywood to the outsides of the walls.  

The framing nailer was handy as I built this up at the new house site, so I just used it to attach the  plywood to the framing. The nails are 8D 2-3/8" - I'd recommend galvanized if you aren't siding it, as non galvanized nails will bleed when wet.  

Bam, bam, bam, done.

 

Then I just tied to two side panels to together with back pieces and too pieces.

Then I just added sheeting to the back.  For the seat, I just tied in a board across the two walls, and put plywood on top.  

Then used my jigsaw to install the toilet seat.

I built the door using 3/4" plywood scraps and set the hinges.  My theory is doing this now on a level surface with access to tools and electricity is much easier than doing this in the wood, in the dirt, with the bugs biting me.

I also put plywood on the roof and added tin to the roof (this outhouse is designed to fit a 36" tin roofing panel).  

Then the hubs came home and I showed him the outhouse before I started disassembling it for transport, but he had a different idea ....

My brother helped up get the outhouse somehow on to the back of the ATV - it weighs a ton a this point and is very cumbersome.

Down the trail, through the mud,

And to the tiny house.

My carefully constructed outhouse just got dumped off the ATV.  Thankful I went a little generous on the wood screws right now.

After a little clean up, we've got a bathroom finally!!!

It's simple.  It's functional.  It's all we need. 

Happy to share these plans with you today.  If you do build, please share, I'd love to see how your project turns out too.

XO Ana

 

Dimensions
free outhouse plans for beginners
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - sheets 1/2 exterior plywood
  • 1 - 12' treated 2x4
  • 1 - 10' treated 2x4
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long (recommend treated or weather resistant)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 29" (recommend treated or weather resistant, try using a railing spindle)
  • 11 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 Gate Hinges
  • Gate Latch and Handle
  • 54" piece of 36" wide tin 
  • Roofing screws to match, roofing screws can be up to 2" in length
  • 3" decking screws, self tapping 
  • Nails or staples for attaching plywood to framing (I used 8D galvanized but you can also use a finish nail, brad nail or staple or screws, depending on your tool)
  • 1 - 1/4" exterior screws for buiding the doors
Cut List

BASE

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 72"
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 33"
  • 7 - 2x6 @ 36" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 29" long
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 24-1/2" long

 

WALLS

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 48-1/8" (long point to short point, ends cut parallel at 15 degrees off square)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80-1/4" ( longest point, one end cut at 15 degrees off square)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 74-1/4" ( longest point, one end cut at 15 degrees off square)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 68-1/4" ( longest point, one end cut at 15 degrees off square)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 46-1/2"
  • 2 - 1/2" plywood @ 48" x 83-3/8" (longest point) cut down to 70-1/2" (shortest point)

 

TIE IN

  • 1 - 2x6 @ 36"
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 35"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 28"
  • 1 - 1/2" plywood @ 36" x 52" (roof plywood)
  • 1 - 1/2" plwyood @ 36" x 44" (scrap from roof piece)
  • 1 - 1/2" plywood @ 36" x 26-1/4" (may have to piece to use scraps)

 

DOOR

  • 3 - 1x10 @ 77"
  • 3 - 1x6 @ 27-3/4"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 38" - long point to short point, both ends cut at 37-1/2 degrees off square, end are parallel
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw

Instructions

Step 1

Build the base with treated or weather resistant 2x4s.  If the base isn't fully supported on the ground or with beams, consider using 2x6 or larger boards for additional support.

Step 2

Screw decking to frame.  I recommend weather resistant or treated wood for the decking, as the front decking is exposed to to weather.

Step 3

Build two of the walls.

Step 4

Attach plywood to the outsides of the walls, considering walls are to be built in mirror.  On the short side of the wall, the plywood overhangs the back by 1-1/2".

Step 5

Step 6

Attach 2x4 and 2x6 boards to walls to tie in the walls at the front and back.

Step 7

Additional supports recommended for supporting the roof.  

Step 8

Attach plywood to roof, nailing or screwing to all availabe tie in points.

Step 9

Use scrap plywood pieces to cover back.  I considered leaving the top panel open and covering with acrylic glass as well but ended up using plywood.  

Step 10

Build the door and attach with gate hinges.  If using a gate clasp, make sure there is a way for the door to be opened from the inside.  We did this by drilling a hole and attaching a string to the clasp so it can be opened from the inside.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
This outhouse should be finished with an exterior penetrating stain. For a wood look, you can use a transparent, for a rustic look, use a semi-transparent, for a painted look, use a solid color penetrating stain.

Comments

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!