Rolling Industrial Shelves

Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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Roll these industrial shelves into your dining room or living room for a little extra storage with a lot of style. Features industrial hardware, rustic design, and five large shelves.

I'm REALLY nervous to post this - this is my first plan and I just know Ana and all of you will have a bunch of ideas on how to improve the design. :) Which is great! I'm hoping to post this plan along with some questions so that we can figure it out the best way to build it together.
I'm REALLY nervous to post this - this is my first plan and I just know Ana and all of you will have a bunch of ideas on how to improve the design. :) Which is great! I'm hoping to post this plan along with some questions so that we can figure it out the best way to build it together.

Ana mentioned wanting to make up these plans ("inspired" by the Wisteria Recycled Pine Wood Bookcase - but I honestly couldn't wait (those darn buildies!) and I know how busy she is so I thought I'd take the plunge!

Dimensions
Dimensions: 75.5″h x 69.25″w x 18″d

Preparation

Shopping List

15 – 2×6 Pine Boards, 8 foot length (6′ would be even better, but I’m not sure they make that size!)
4 – 2 x 4 Pine Boards, 8 foot length
10 – 1×2 Pine Boards, 6 foot length (again, I’m not sure they come in 6′, if they don’t, you will need to buy the 8 footers!)
2 – 1 x 2 Pine Boards, 8 foot length
1 – 2 x 2 Pine Boards, 10 foot length, OR 2 – 8 foot boards
OPTIONAL: dowel, metal rod or cabling Qty. 4 at 67.25″L
OPTIONAL: 4 metal angle brackets
4 – 4″ to 6″ Caster Wheels (metal ones are best)
2″ Screws
2″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue and Finishing Supplies

Cut List

15 – 2×6 @ 64.75″ (Shelves)
10 – 1 x 2 @ 66.25″ (Shelves Front Trim)
10 – 1 x 2 @ 16.5″ (Shelves Side Trim)
10 – 2 x 2 @ 11″ (“Ladder” Sides)
4 – 2 x 4 @ 75.5″ (“Ladder” Legs)
4 – 67.25″ Dowel or Metal Rod

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building FIVE shelves.

Red = 2×6 @64.75″ Shelvf board
Blue = 1×2 @16.5″ Shelves Side Trim board
Yellow = 1×2 @ 66.25 Shelves Front Trim board

If you have a pocket hole system, attach your shelves together using pocket holes. If not, then end 1×2 (blue) will keep everything together, but there will not be a joint between the 2x6s. An easy work around would be to use wood dowels or small metal brackets on the underside.

Step 2

Ends

If you have a pocket hole system, attach the 2×2 end trim to the legs. These boards are optional and are not necessary for the structure of the shelf. If you like the looks of the end trim, you can simply add it after you add the shelves.

Green = 2×4 @ 75.5″ “Ladder” legs
Pink = 2×2 @11″ “Ladder” sides

Step 3

Decorative Rods

If you choose to use the decorative rods, mark the back legs as shown in the diagram above. Predrill holes with a bit that matches the diameter of your rods (ANA NOTE: I’ve been on enough concrete pours to know exactly what I would use here – Rebar is cheap, easy to cut, and has the rustic, industrial look. Ask for it in the concrete section of your home improvement store) Cut your rods to fit.

Step 4

Assembly

Attach the bottom shelve to the side ladders (or legs), as well as gluing all of your dowels into place as you attach the bottom shelve. Continue attaching the shelves with 17″ of space between each one.

Comments

michelle (not verified)

Thu, 01/13/2011 - 10:37

I so need one of those......and a gargae too. LOL. But those are amazing, great job.

Toni Howe (not verified)

Thu, 01/13/2011 - 11:04

Wow! Great job. I am still working hard to figure out scketch up. It is a true test to my patientence, but I refuse to give up. Thanks for the post.

Jamie (not verified)

Thu, 01/13/2011 - 11:53

I think you'd actually need 8 optional angle brackets... Great post! I would LOVE one of these in my house! I'd want to get the finish just right; rough up the boards and make it look really industrial.

flippin1999 (not verified)

Thu, 01/13/2011 - 14:42

Love love love! Thank you! I posted the inspiration pic on Facebook, and have been (im)patiently waiting and hoping ever since. I feel so bad asking Ana to do anything more than the bazillion things she already does for us- but this plan looks great, and it looks like it's time to go wood shopping! Yay!

Bethany (not verified)

Thu, 01/13/2011 - 15:26

I am building this right now - (I did the model/plan with some suggestions from Ana!) I am hoping to have pics up by the weekend! :) I don't have casters yet though, that is my current dilemma. If/when I find some I will post the link - in the meantime, if anyone finds some will you post a link? :D

Rachel (not verified)

Thu, 01/13/2011 - 18:17

Beautiful! I will have to wait until our move this summer but I would LOVE to have a wall of these shelves! Thanks for the post:).

Annalea (not verified)

Thu, 01/13/2011 - 18:51

This is very well-presented . . . great job!

One thought: I would tend to think that the angle brackets would be necessary for angular stability . . . or something to add some diagonal bracing/ties. Has anyone finished one of these yet who can tell us?

J (not verified)

Fri, 01/14/2011 - 05:05

I was just going to say that diagonal stays from corner-to-corner along the back would help keep the whole unit stable, preventing sheering sideways.

lianatempera (not verified)

Fri, 01/14/2011 - 07:23

This is awesome! How much weight do you think these can hold? I think I might need to build this at some point ...

Carrie (not verified)

Fri, 01/14/2011 - 09:43

Thanks for making these plans... I was going to make them myself... and now you have saved me a step. I cannot wait to build these!

Travis (not verified)

Fri, 01/14/2011 - 11:12

Great idea! I would caution that a height to depth ratio of at least 4:1 should be taken in to account to avoid tipping. The height of the shelving unit (including caster height) should not be more than 4 times the depth of the base (measured from caster to caster, not the 18" shelf depth). Use extra caution if planning on adding swivel casters for added portability, as they can shrink the base a considerable amount if the casters turn in on each other.

Also, make sure when loading to keep the heavier objects down low.

Deborah (not verified)

Thu, 02/24/2011 - 18:47

This would make a great unit for me in my sewing room. I would think swivel casters would be best, especially for me as I am always moving things around trying to get the most space in my sewing/spare room. Even my sewing table has rollers on it, much easier to move on carpet.

jameyk (not verified)

Tue, 06/07/2011 - 19:55

if you use the shiny zinc covered hardware you can soak it in white vinegar over night and it will strip the coating off of it leaving you with a dull steel finish. The unfinished steel will rust so try not to get it wet!!!

jamey

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 12/15/2011 - 05:57

Does anyone know where I can buy these rolling industrial shelves for a reasonable price? Thank you!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!