These little guys can be both a nightstand or side bases to form an entire media wall. Features large interior with optional shelf, open base for air circulation, ideal for storing just about anything.
If you are getting frustrated with the technical issues of the site, first of all, let me say, I am so sorry and I promise, I am doing everything I can, day and night - to accommodate the needs of our growing site. And let me also say, I'm just as frustrated, and found myself in tears yesterday after the migration turned up no thumbnails.
Hours later, still no thumbnails.
Hours later on the phone with technical support, still no thumbnails.
Hours later, we've got thumbnails, but we're back to the shared site. Sign.
So what's a gal to do when she's stressed out?
I tell you there are few things more stress relieving than a good ole hammer and nails. Or an old school sanding block.
And a big ole project . . .
a big BIG ole project. Productive therapy.
There's something about working hard and seeing actual results - not cross your fingers and hope this works results - that makes you feel satisfied and encouraged inside.
I'm not really sure how I ended up with two pieces that look like they should be nightstands from Crate and Barrel, but I'll take it. And if you need end tables, nightstands . . . or have a free weekend, and need super storage in your family room, I'm so happy to share this plan with you.
Preparation
Shopping List (for ONE nightstand/side base cabinet)
1×12 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×2 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
1/4″ up to 3/4″ plywood scrap, (1×16 scrap would be great) 16 3/8″ long
1 set of euro style inset hinges OR basic hinges
handle or nob
2 1/2″ screws, 1 1/4″ finish nails or screws or pocket hole screws
finishing supplies including wood glue and wood filler, paint and primer, or stain
2 – 1×12 @ 19 1/2″ (Sides)
4 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Trim – cut to the width of your 1x12s)
4 – 2×2 @ 23 1/4″ (legs)
2 – 1×12 @ 15 1/2″ (Shelf)
4 – 2×2 @ 15 1/2″ (Front/Back Trim)
1 – 1×2 @ 18 1/2″ (Top)
1 – 1×12 @ 18 1/2″ (Top)
1 – 1×3 @ 18 1/2″ (Top)
2 – 1×3 @ 15 3/8″ (Door)
3 – 1×2 @ 11 3/8″ (Door)
1/4 – to 1/2″ plywood @ 15 3/8″ x 16 3/8″ (door back)
Instructions
Step 1
Side Trim
Attach the side trim to the outsides of the sides as shown above.
Step 2
Legs
Keeping the legs flush with the top, attach legs to the sides as shown above. Predrill holes if you are using screws.
Step 3
Shelves
The bottom shelf sits flush to the bottom. You can either add a second shelf or drill holes for shelf pins for an adjustable shelf. Glue and screw with either pocket hole screws or 2 1/2″ screws.
Step 4
Front/Back Trim
2 1/2″ screws and glue.
Step 5
Step 6
Doors
When you cut your boards, make sure you measure the exact opening of your door, and leave 1/8 gap for a tight fit, 1/4″ (total gap, so that’s 1/8″ all the way around) for a roomier door. If you have a pocket hole system, build the door frame as shown above. You can use a countersink bit or wood dowels to build the door frame too. Otherwise, glue and nail to the back plywood. Keep in mind the allowance need for your hinges. Depending on the type of hinge that you are using, you may need to cut the plywood out around the hinge.
Step 7
Finishing
Fill holes with wood filler and sand and finish as desired. Attach door with hinges followed by a handle.
Comments
Loni (not verified)
Fri, 01/21/2011 - 14:46
This has been a stressful
This has been a stressful week for all, I hit a deer (destroyed my truck) and was layed off this week. It will get better! (although I did suggest we take a vote to have this week removed from our calenders for years to come, lol)
As for this post! Perfect! I look forward to the plans for the center piece too because I was just trying to figure out how to build a new dresser with the doors on each side and drawers in the middle and this would be perfect to match the "end" tables!
Thank you for everything! We love you no matter what technical difficulties may arise :)
Loni (not verified)
Fri, 01/21/2011 - 15:22
Question, (probably a dumb
Question, (probably a dumb one)
Is the back intentionally left off because this was designed for an entertainment center and that way plugs and cords can go through?
Kristy (not verified)
Fri, 01/21/2011 - 21:24
Sorry about your troubles, it
Sorry about your troubles, it will get better:)
I can't believe that you just posted plans for this, it makes me SO happy. I have the picture of the camp media wall system that my husband and I were going to try and figure out how to build but now bless your heart you are making it so easy for us. THANK YOU!!!!!! It looks amazing!
Treva (not verified)
Sat, 01/22/2011 - 05:20
Because of your awesome site,
Because of your awesome site, we have a bench for our kitchen table, sofa table/bookcase, bed for my son, a kitchen for my two year old, an almost finished hutch in my garage, and a new found confidence/hobby. What a wonderful problem to have--too many followers of your site. I hope you can figure it out soon for your sake, but I am willing to wait.
Eleven years ago I watched Trading Spaces and wanted to be a carpenter like Amy Wynn. I bought woodworking magazines for years only to find the plans too complicated. With your approachable plans, you are helping my dreams come true. When I want a custom piece of furniture, now I just build it. Now the only problem is finding the time to build all the things on my list. Thank you!
Mike (not verified)
Sat, 01/22/2011 - 08:45
Ana - it may not be the fix
Ana - it may not be the fix you are looking for, but I've found your site performs better using Google Chrome than Microsoft IE. If you agree, you may want to let people know that this may produce a better experience. At least until you work everything out, as I'm sure you will.
Mike
Jennifer (not verified)
Sat, 01/22/2011 - 12:08
This is exactly what I was
This is exactly what I was looking for. I've been wanting to build the Tryde side tables but I need a drawer or door for storage. This is perfect. Thanks Ana!
Jeff (not verified)
Sun, 01/23/2011 - 15:08
Ana...wonderful ideas and
Ana...wonderful ideas and plans. I will be building one or two of these for our breakfast room. However, I would love to see how you do the hinges. I built a doll clothes cabinet and messed up the hinge installation (pre-planning?). I need to make some doors for the closet and want to use piano hinges...any thoughts or suggestions? (ie, hiding or showing hinges, etc) Jeff
Ana White (not verified)
Sun, 01/23/2011 - 15:38
Jeff, what I do is use full
Jeff, what I do is use full inset euro style hinges, face mount. Before putting the back on the cabinet (optional) lay the cabinet on it's face, with the top overhang extending off the table. You want the cabinet to rest flush, with the door opening flush to a tabletop. Then insert your door from the back and fit it until you are happy with the gap around the door. With the hinges in the closed position, (90 degree angle instead of opened at 180 degree angle) attach the hinges to the inside of the cabinet and door. Then test the door and fit as necessary. Inset doors can be tricky. Overlay doors tend to be easier, so you could make your doors a little bigger and make them overlay. Make sure your doors are really square, and your box is square too. I will be beginning a video tutorial section shortly, and this will go in it. Thanks for asking.
Amy J (not verified)
Wed, 02/16/2011 - 07:15
I am going to build one of
I am going to build one of these with a little different dimensions to hide my litter box in! I see I am not the only one who had that idea! I might also cut holes in the top to slip a food and water dish into now that we have a dog so that he can't get to the cat's food!
tudmt1122
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