The Media Hutch

diy media hutch
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

A beautiful media hutch to match the Cabin Collection. Features two large open shelves for controllers, two drawers for remotes, and a large shelf to customize the fit of the tv and store additional controllers, games, or books.

Collections

You don't hear me talk a whole lot about finishing because it's not the exact science of screw board A to board B of construction.  Probably what you hear more than anything is comments that go something like this . . . . "building was the easy part, finishing . . . that was the real work!"

The problem with finishing is that there really isn't a "wrong" way to finish something. If you have achieved the look that you are after, than you have succeeded.  (Of course, you should read instructions on your paint cans to make sure that finish is durable and safe.)

For those of you looking to achieve that edge rubbled finish, most recently seen on my Cabin Entertainment Center, I thought I would put together a few tips for you.  These are just tips, and you should always build to suit your needs first and foremost.

The clear top coat also brings out the color, but in my opinion, the slight distressing warms the entire look up.  So here is exactly what we did:

  1. Sand the entire piece in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper.  Make sure you clean off any sanding residue with a vacuum and a damp cloth.
  2. Spray on one coat of flat paint with primer in it.  A roller would also work (try those cabinet ones with the sponge rollers) but avoid brushing because a brush will put a heavier coat of paint on, completely covering the wood grain.  I also avoid separate primer because then you got this white coat under the colored coat.
  3. Let the coat of primer dry completely.  If you start distressing too soon, chunks of paint will come off.
  4. When dry, with a piece of 120 grit sandpaper, lightly rub exposed edges that would receive natural wear.  Concentrate on corners, outside corners, tops, and around handles - areas likely to wear naturally.  Resist the temptation to use a power sander.  It's too easy to remove to over distress.
  5. Avoid over distressing - just a touch here and there is all you need.
  6. Vacuum off all sanding residue and wipe clean again with a damp cloth.
  7. If you painted a light color, you may wish to glaze the exposed wood with a glaze. You can buy glaze in the faux finishing aisle, but I like to use Minwax Express Color.  Note that the stain may also add color to the painted areas.  If you wish to keep your paint color from accepting the stain, you will need to apply a clear coat BEFORE you distress edges, glaze, and then apply your final clear coat.  I like to work my glaze in with a rag by hand, but others use brushes.  Rags tend to use less glaze, and glaze can be spendy.  Work the glaze into the exposed edges, wiping off and reapplying.  Your weather (hot dry climates will dry very fast) will determine just how long the glaze needs to be left on (and what color you are trying to achieve) so be patient and do lots of testing.
  8. For inside corners, you can apply glaze and wipe clean.  Glaze will remain in cracks and tight corners, creating adding dimension on your finish.
  9. My cabinet was not glazed because I love natural wood and dark gray.  We sprayed on a clear coat of water based poly to give the project a dustable and durable finish

    Just like the finish, you should build this around your needs.  Measure your TV and make sure it fits.

Dimensions
hutch dimensions
You can adjust the top shelf height and also make the bottom hutch out of 1x4s or 1x6s for added height. The drawers shown above are for 1×8 drawers.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 – 1×12 @ 8 feet long

2 – 1×12 @ 10 feet long

6 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long 1 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long

1/4″ plywood for back (to do both side hutches and the center, you can use the same piece of plywood)

2 – 1×8 @ 10″ long (scraps for drawer fronts)

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 – 1×12 @ 48″ (Sides)

4 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Trim for sides, cut it to match the width of your 1x12s)

4 – 2×2 @ 48″ (Legs)

4 – 2×2 @ 54 1/2″ (Front/Back Trim)

4 – 1×12 @ 54 1/2″ (Shelves/Top)

1 – 1×2 @ 54 1/2″ (Shelf Trim)

1 – 1/4″ plywood @ 48″ x 57 1/2″ (Back)

5 – 1×12 @ 7 1/2″ (Assuming your 1×8 drawer fronts are 7 1/4″ wide – adjust to fit your 1x8s)

2 – 1×8 @ 10″ (for 10 1/4″ wide drawers)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Sides

As we did the side on the rest of the collection, start by trimming out the top and bottom. I didn’t have a nailer handy, so I used 1 1/4″ screws from the inside (flat side) countersunk and glue.

Step 2

Legs

These would be the legs if we were making a bookshelf, so I’ll refer to them as legs. I used pocket hole screws to attach, but you can also use 2 1/2″ finish nails and glue or countersunk trim screws (I believe trim screws come in a 2 5/8″ length, which is perfect).

Step 3

Taking Shape

You can do step 4 first, step 3 first – do what makes sense for you. Attach the 2x2s with either pocket hole screws (2 1/2″ long) or the trim screws from the outside.

Step 4

Top

Attach the top to the sides and front/back trim with either pocket hole screws or the trim screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

Back

I highly recommend a back on the top just because the piece is so large, and the back adds so much strength. If your shelf is fixed, attach to the shelf too with 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

Step 7

Build the Controller Shelf

The controller shelf not only adds dimension to the look of the piece, not to mention increased useability, but it also strengthens up the base unit. Measure your 1x8s drawer fronts (you should have some leftover from the media base unit) and cut your 1×12 dividers to 1/8″ (tight fit) to 1/4″ (loose fit) longer than the width of the 1x8s. Also, measure the width of your controllers (as shown below) and make your two center cubbies a width fit for your controllers.

Step 8

Adding the Controller Shelf

We screwed the controller shelf directly to the bottom of the hutch. There is a 1 1/2″ gap behind the controller shelf for wires. The drawer fronts are simply 1x8s on hinges – perfect spot to hide remotes and to place charging cords.

Step 9

Assembly

When we assembled the entire unit, we screwed all of the pieces together and also anchored to the wall behind the hutch. Safety first!

Comments

Erin Dietrich (not verified)

Wed, 02/02/2011 - 10:16

Thanks for the insights on finishing - its comforting to know that no matter what I do, it won't be wrong (as long as I read the can directions!) I'm nervous to do my first distressed look finish - but excited at the same time!

tedk72

Fri, 10/11/2013 - 07:30

Hi do you have any idea where i can find the plans for the center bottom piece of media hutch, the piece with the two drawers ?

Jen (not verified)

Wed, 02/02/2011 - 11:43

Thanks for sharing, Ana! I love the color and finish on this piece, it reminds me a worn blue jeans. :)

Wendy (not verified)

Wed, 02/02/2011 - 11:50

I LOVE the color of the above piece... would you mind sharing what exactly you used - Brand/Color? My husband and I are building the Brady Entryway pieces this week :) Thank you!

Ladd (not verified)

Wed, 02/02/2011 - 12:29

Ana:
When you say you sprayed on a finish, are you talking about spraying from a can or from some setup using your compressor? If from the compressor, please talk about your setup.
Thanks!

mamma_joy (not verified)

Wed, 02/02/2011 - 14:17

She listed some of those details on a previous post:
"2 Cans of Flat Enamel by Valspar in Mark Twain Gray Brick"
and
"For this project, we pulled the sprayer out (a first for me on furniture projects) and I found the sprayer gives a more even finish, but does not necessarily cover imperfections in the wood as a brush might. Our sprayer was purchased to paint the exterior of our home, but it worked great for this application as well. We also sprayed a top coat on to give the piece a dust-able finish. "

Lisa (not verified)

Mon, 02/07/2011 - 11:32

see now finishing for me is the easy and fun part! Maybe it's because I usually remodel/refinish stuff rather than build from scratch. Your website is pushing me towards the building side, which I might tackle this summer.

I guess if I had a couple tips - always stay with matte finishes until the last step. If you build with poplar or furniture grade pine, then you paint with a matte color, distress or rub what you like, THEN you can stain (with an normal stain - not a stain/poly combo) and it shouldn't change the surface texture of the piece. If you need to touch up with some matte paint, it should be ok. Milk paint is a little absorbed into softwood (pine, poplar) so you can get a bit of shading in your colors although the color spectrum is quite limited.

Then after you're done, follow with the poly sheen of your choice: matin/satin/gloss. But I find color/stain finishing with matte to be the most predictable.

Rebekka (not verified)

Wed, 04/20/2011 - 11:39

I hope this isn't a stupid question...you mixed the primer in with the paint? Does it not change the color or was the primer colored?

Rebekka (not verified)

Wed, 04/20/2011 - 11:59

Also, am I imagining it or does the hutch have a bluish tint? I love it but when I look the paint color up it's all gray

Cara (not verified)

Mon, 06/06/2011 - 07:06

TV

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 12/27/2011 - 20:43

LOVE IT and more importantly so does my wife. I printed both plans, the enter and side shelves, and looked for the plans for the bottom pieces. I may have passed them due to that after searching the internet for hours and just got tired. But... would you be able to point me in the direction of where I could find the DIY instruction to build the bottom pieces too? Depending on how I do with building those I was wanting to complete this as my first DIY building project.

Zoo house mom (not verified)

Wed, 03/14/2012 - 16:12

Hi. My first time writing on a blog! yikes. Wondering about finding good deal on sinks. Looking for a double sink for bathroom with two faucets and one rectangular sink or a big rectangular sink and one faucet. really love this blog!! Have possible dresser for vanity but three small boys and a small bath.

mrsg08

Thu, 03/22/2012 - 13:03

Hi Ana,

My husband and I are getting ready to tackle this entire project. We currently have a deep sage color sofa and eventually would like to upgrade to a chocolate leather sofa. Can you offer a paint suggestion for us to paint the Entertainment Center once we're done building it?

Thanks!

aklab

Thu, 04/24/2014 - 07:18

Help! I want to build this but the PDF link is broken (here and on the media console page). Any plans to replace the plans there?

aklab

Thu, 04/24/2014 - 07:18

Help! I want to build this but the PDF link is broken (here and on the media console page). Any plans to replace the plans there?

aklab

Thu, 04/24/2014 - 07:19

Help! I want to build this but the PDF link is broken (here and on the media console page). Any plans to replace the plans there?

jenbeck

Mon, 06/17/2019 - 08:25

I'm new to this site. I love it! But I'm curious why I can't always find the project cost? When I searched it came up, but when I got myself an account, I never can find it? Thanks!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!