DIY Elevator Bed for Tiny House

DIY Elevator Bed for Tiny House
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How we built an automated elevator bed for a tiny house for about $500 - tutorial by Ana-White.com

DIY Elevator Bed for Tiny House
DIY Elevator Bed for Tiny House
DIY Elevator Bed for Tiny House
DIY Elevator Bed for Tiny House

I love working on tiny houses because they force me to be creative with space.  In our latest tiny house build, to maximize space and keep the open feel, we decided to try DIYing an elevator bed.

The space was originally designed for a loft bed.  Originally I had planned on just having the bed lower and rest on cleats on the wall, but the client wanted to be able to lock the bed in place at a "bunk" level to allow guest to sleep on the convertible sofa underneath.  And I was also concerned as the bed raised and lowered it might scratch up the walls.  

So I decided to try using heavy duty sliding door hardware, but vertically instead of horizontally.  Then I could drill out pins in the hardware to lock the bed in place.

So we screwed the sliding door hardware to the walls through the back, using big screws every 8" or so.  On the back corners, I left an inch or so gap so the bed could slide past artwork on the walls.

We did this for all four corners with the sliding barn door hardware.  The overall size is bigger than the queen mattress lengthwise, but right at 60" wide (the width of a queen bed).

Then from there we attached 4x4 beams to the sliding door hardware rollers.

The beams will support the entire weight of the bed.  

From there we attached 2x4 joists in between using our Kreg Jig HD with HD screws.  You could also use 2x4 joist hangers.

We left room at the front so the bed would pass over the tv.

We decked the 2x4 frame with 1x6 tongue and groove boards, but you could also use plywood or other materials that can span your joist spacings.

Now on to the mechanics.  We purchased this garage storage lift system from Amazon for $199 with Free Shipping (but the price seems to have increased) -

There are other options out there, I liked this one because it picks the bed up at the four corners and is rated at 250 pounds.  The lift just has to bring the bed up and down - it never supports the weight of someone actually sleeping on the bed (the sliding hardware does that).

The lift didn't line up with our ceiling stud pattern so I mounted it first to a 1x6 boards.  Regrets ... I wish we'd used a 2x6 for added security.  

Then we mounted the lift to the ceiling, screwing the board to the ceiling joists.  I also replaced the screws mounting the lift to the 1x6 with bigger screws that grab the ceiling tongue and groove too.  It's pretty heavy, this isn't something you want to skimp on.

We did the same with the pulleys so they are mounted to the ceiling joists.

We then drilled holes through the sliding hardware for locking pins.  The bed rests on the pins, not the lift system.  The lift system is only used to move the bed up and down.

Notice there is slack in the cables with the bed in the lost position.  We could have brough the bed even lower, but it was a compromise where the pillows on the couch won.

For more details, check out the video that we did on this bed -

And see it in action in the final reveal -

We were very happy with how the bed turned out and will definitely be building again at some point!

XO Ana

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DIY Elevator Bed for Tiny House

Comments

kathyclarkej

Thu, 03/30/2017 - 10:52

two questions:

1. What size truck is needed to move this?

2.  Are there plans for the whole tiny house from start to finish or are there only plans for pieces?

Thanks, Kathy

Gcatalon

Mon, 12/25/2017 - 13:59

Hello there, I love the elevator bed diy. Few questions:

1. Garage lift system says it’s 4x4, I can’t really tell in the pictures or video, but the width of a queen is 60” and the length is over the 4x4 window of the lift system. So are the lifting pulleys inline with the lift system or mounted slightly outside of the 4x4 footprint?

 

2.  How are the safety pins engaged when bed is fully raised. I can understand the bottom pins as a stopping point, but don’t see how to do the top ones for safety from bed falling. 

 

Thanks. I really want to do this diy

Toni Knickerbocker

Tue, 04/28/2020 - 08:22

You and your family inspire me a great deal!
Newbie here Ana and Family! I'm very excited to have come across your site and look forward to trying to build some of your ideas myself.
Thank you!
Toni K

kimeow

Mon, 08/03/2020 - 04:41

Hi Ana,
Thank you for sharing this wonderful idea !
May I ask how can we connect the mechanic with the On off switch ? It will be great if you can share the model of the switch + motor . And where I can get it from?
Also, is there any safety lock to prevent the bed from falling in accident ?
Thank you and hope to get your reply soon, cheers!

mattsammis19

Sun, 08/09/2020 - 23:07

Hello Ana. I'd love to borrow your idea of the elevator bed.
Do you have any more info regarding the steel rails and roller hardware that you used as the track system?
Also, could the whinch system be set up for manual raising and lowering, perhaps a crank shaft or hand crank?

CP Wms Sr

Mon, 10/11/2021 - 18:46

Really like this and I look at it and wonder if you could apply the same kind of idea with cabinets? Sliding cabinets up and down a wall could give you access to space difficult to reach and it could give you double up if the top of the.cabinets were used as table or desktop etc.....you inspire crazy ideas when I think about your ideas...thank you!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!