Country Side Tables and Headboard
Great, matching bedside tables and headboard. Made it mostly from pine, and scrap lumber.
Great, matching bedside tables and headboard. Made it mostly from pine, and scrap lumber.
Since developing a love for woodworking I’ve began building things for other people. This particular bed frame I built for a couple who are rebuilding their home after it unfortunately burned down. It’s a beautiful farmhouse home out in the country, and this bed frame fits perfectly in their new home.
Fabulous home gym by Nailgun Nelly!
*Incorporated and modified the grand waterfall console plan
We built this command center to hang in our kitchen so that we can organize incoming papers and jot notes on the chalkboard portion. Also a hook for keys!
These wood plans were great! Easy to follow and an awesome first project for my hubby and I to build together. Only hitch for us was by choosing to make the longer bench we didn't check the placement of the feet before attaching it. When we were done we weren't able to push the benches under the table so we had to redo that step.
Just in time for Christmas!
We had this unused lower deck and this bar height table was the perfect addition. We have place now to hang when too hot or it’s raining. My husband and I built it in one weekend and your plans where great.
Julie Moran
Sun, 08/27/2023 - 12:48
Love this view and what a gorgeous table to go with it! Thanks for sharing.
This is my very first build which was inspired by this website. I have been wanting to build something for a while but was pretty scared. In any case, my husband really wanted a standing desk for our office corner in our little house. After browsing forever and not finding anything I liked in store I decided to build. The entire project was built from materials we had laying around in the shed (1 - 1x2, 4- 2x4 and 3- 2x8 pieces for the desk top).
This was my first Ana White project, and i'm hooked! this was a lot of fun, and i've already done several other projects since.
As with any of these, the straighter and flatter the wood, the better the whole thing goes!
I saw this and thought I would give it a try. First time building furniture out of dimensional lumber. Worked out for the most part. I forgot that wood dries and shrinks along its width so there are a few small gaps that eventually appeared in between the boards. I am sure they will disappear once summer's humid air arrives. All in all it was pretty straight forward. I switched which side has the towel bar and I modified the bottom shelf to accommodate wine bottles for easy storage. I had fun.
When I first saw Mimi's Faux Mantle I dreamed about building one for my house but I didn't know where. When I began renovating my Master Bedroom I found the perfect place for it on a bare uninteresting wall.
To add interest to the mantle, I stained the top and attached a faux hearth using a 1x12 painted the same color as the rest of the mantle. I also Diy'd a distressed mirror glass insert to bounce the lighting off. I added low voltage LED lights too.
It turned out better than I expected.
Visit my blog http://thepursuitofhandyness.com for a full tutorial of the building process and the distressed mirror glass.
Wed, 01/22/2014 - 23:56
Hi Ana,any chance you can fix the link for the plans of this mantle?
Thank you for a very clear tutorial. Only challenge was the hinges but managed OK. I changed the position of the legs and chose some bit thicker tree and rounded the bottoms to make it more steady and easier to move around.
A microburst storm destroyed my first green house (last pic). I wanted something that would be stronger, I found Ana's plan and built a replacement. Was able to recycle some of the metal channels and panels from the destroyed one to cover the end sections and the door.
Beautiful bedside table build by Heather Kirk
I modified the laundry basket dresser that you made. Here's the end result :) I allowed the baskets to hang out farther that the side due to limited space for the built in "cabinet." You can not see it in the photo, but we then wrote "dirty" in red on one end of each basket so that I know easily which baskets contain clean unfolded clothes and how much laundry I still need to do. Each person has their own "hamper" basket in their room that gets put into here when it's full and they replace it with an empty one from the rack. It's been working like a charm!
Best Christmas present according to my 4-year-old twins :) I combined ideas from Jen Woodhouse's "cabin bed" and "loft cabin bed" after seeing another brag post from someone who had turned it into a bunk bed. I added a separate platform for the lower mattress for uniformity and to provide some air circulation for the mattress. I also opted for a 2x6 as the bottom weight-bearing beam because I wanted to be able to add an extra couple pocket screws since this mama likes to play in the top bunk too! My girls took turns sleeping in the top/bottom for the first 2 nights, and have been camping out together in the top bunk ever since... and my husband and I are finally getting to sleep in on the weekends because they never want to come out of their room!
**Side note -- I'm not sure how my pictures got flipped but I have no idea how to fix it!
Wed, 01/08/2020 - 06:09
This is exactly what I am looking for. How tall is it? Can you post plans of how you modified it?
Fri, 10/02/2020 - 09:33
I am SO sorry but I haven't been on here since I posted the bunkbeds (almost 9 months ago!) I had written out all of my modified measurements on the Jen Woodhouse plans but have since lost it somewhere in my garage :( Here is what I can tell you at the moment: short side of "front" & "back" panels = 77.25" ; I kept the angles on the sides/roof the same, so the highest point of roof = 89" (I have short 8' ceilings so this leaves ~7" space up top). I used what I believe were 5" tongue & groove flooring panels instead of plywood for all sides, framed by 2x4s and 2x6 underneath for a little extra support. The height from the bottom of the top bunk to the floor is 38", and I added a 2x6 piece between the bottom legs of the 2 side pieces, flush with the outside edge. I built a rectangular frame for the bottom mattress using 2x6" on the long sides and 2x4 on the short sides -- the 2x4s are raised off the floor in order to allow for air circulation under the mattress and act as the end slats (they're flush on top with the rest of the slats, which I used 2x4s instead of the 1x in the plans)... instead of the 2x2 supports for the mattresses I used some scrap 2x3s from my kids old toddler beds which I had also built but tried to recycle as much of the wood as I could for this project, plus the 2x6 gave me a little more wiggle room -- if you use 2x4 you won't have space for 2x3 supports. The front "door" opening is 22.75", which I based on my size and me being able to get in and out easily (as mentioned above, I like to camp out with my kids sometimes!). The window openings are 12" w x 13.5" h, but the height is measured after I made a 1x3" window ledge which is flush with the inside of the wall; the rest of the windows are framed with 1x2s and 1x3s.
The full width of the side panels is 38" and the front/back are 78.5" -- I based these on the mattresses which I had already bought (Novaform twin from Costco -- since they're memory foam they're a little easier to "squeeze" in the top bunk than I would imagine a regular mattress would be).
I think that covers everything, sorry again about replying so late!
Fri, 10/02/2020 - 09:42
2 more things:
The bottom "frame" was meant to be removable for easy assembly/disassembly as my family moves a lot! That is why I used the inner 2x4s to hold the long side rails together, and the short-side 2x6s which are attached to the side frames are merely fore the illusion that it's all one piece. I did place a couple 2.5" screws through the inside of the 2x4s right into the legs of the upper bunk to make sure it stays in place.
When building the front panels with the windows, I decided on door opening first, then window opening (based on the size of the tongue & groove flooring), then calculated the width of all the pieces to create the window opening. I used pocked holes to connect the tongue & groove flooring to the "frame" created by the 2x4 pieces, and TONS of wood glue in between the boards. Adding the window frames with glue & nails helped provide a little more stability to the windows, although once the glue was dry there was zero movement around the window but I never know with my extremely-destructive twins! Now they're able to climb all over the bunk using the window ledge for support and it's no problem.
Built two jumbo sized dressers 72 by 36 3/4 by 24 3/4. Painting is still pending. One can see playlist here
Rasik
Unfortunately, I just finished building this console table two weeks before Ana and Jim's plans went up on the web site! What I wouldn't have given for the plans! Without the plans, my dad helped me modify the Tryde Console Table to look more like Pottery Barn's Benchwright Console Table, but it was definitely a labor of love (and took me three months to complete, primarily due to lack of motivation and bad weather in Chicago). But I am so pleased with the final result! Because my console table is based off the Tryde project plan, I used 4x4s for the legs, and 2x2s/2x4s for the top. Some of the wood came from other projects, including the loft bed my dad built for me nearly 15 years ago! The bottom shelf is a 1x12 that has been cut with a jigsaw to "perfectly" fit around the posts. I say "perfectly" because I definitely had to use some wood filler around three of the posts! The drawers were the hardest part, and where I really could have used a plan! They are much smaller than they appear from the outside - I used 1x2s for the sides, then attached a 1x6 face to match the sides and back of the console table. Both drawers are firmly held in place by metal drawer slides, which means I don't have to worry about the drawer falling out because it's been overloaded with glassware (as you can see, the console was a late holiday present for my partner, who is using it as his bar). I should have used a thicker piece of plywood on the bottom, because as you can see, the screws attached to the drawer slides protrude. It's nothing we can't live with though! We really wanted the piece to look older than it is (hence why we purposely chose knotty boards), and with some many reclaimed boards, I knew the stain would have to be dark. We chose a Red Oak Minwax stain and applied it once to the legs (pine) and twice to everything else (mostly whitewood). Two coats of Deft later, and we love the result. It looks exactly the way we hoped it would and we love the mix of dark and light shades.