20 Sec Tidy Up Coffee Table

Difficulty
Intermediate
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About Project

How to build a coffee table that hides a toy box! Clean up your living room in seconds with this clever coffee table with toy box trundle.

This is why I love DIY.

You can find inspiration from anywhere.
And you can say, I love that ... if...
If only it had an extra drawer ...

If it was sized right for my room ...

but I hate the color ... if it was a different color ...
And you can take that IF right out of the equation.
You can make a project that fits your needs exactly.  You can build to the right size, the right color, or add that extra drawer. 
Have your credenza, and eat off it too.  Have your bench, and store boots too.  Or in my case, have your coffee table, and stuff all your kids toys in it too.  
Here's my DIB (Do-it-better) tale ...

I love this play table. Charming and storage friendly, but still rustic and kid proof. IF only it had one large trundle under it. My mom will tell you, if I get the chance, I'll stuff the mess under the bed. 31 or 13 - not much has changed!

So I took what I loved - the styling and the stenciled numbers and rustic wood, and added what I needed.  Here's what we got for about $50 bucks later:
Wanna know why this coffee table is called the 20 second tidy up?  Watch this:
Cause you can tidy up your house in the twenty seconds it takes unexpected guests to go from their car to your front door.
 
 
I told you, I like to stuff things under the bed.  And in my living room, that means stuffing things under the coffee table.
And if you can't watch the video. here's the cheat shot.  The base is just a trundle on wheels that can side freely around the house, and then tuck under the coffee table for when Mom comes over.  
Less time cleaning, more time building.  Or tickling kids.  
This trundle can hold no less than EIGHT of those fabric cubes, and would be great for storing everything from your teenagers gaming accessories to extra blankets and pillows, or even your yoga mat and dumbells!

Getting it Finished

I made this coffee table out of pine boards, using $1 pine furring strips for the trim - I placed that knot there on purpose!  The sides and top are 1x6s and the trundle is 1x12s.  
 For the finish, we sanded with a orbital sander, rounding outside edges and smoothing joints.  Then the entire project was stained with Minwax Ipswitch Pine Wood Finish brushed on the bare wood, one coat.  Once that dried, I took Minwax Walnut Wood Finish and dabbed it on a staining rag and rubbed the edges to create more dimension and character.
For the numbers, I printed out numbers (the outlines only) and cut out.  Then we traced the numbers on the "drawers" and painted inside the lines with acrylic paint and an angled brush.  I got these supplies at Joanns.
Finally, we sprayed on no less than four coats of satin polyurethane - the blue can by Minwax.  It's so smooth and shiny!

PS

Don't let me scare you in the instructions.  I seriously whipped this table out in a couple of hours!  It's really simple and easy to build.  But I wanted to provide as much information as possible so you can build better than me!  

PSS

Thank you for the blog love!  I can't believe that you nominated me for Best DIY Blog!  Really means tons to me!
 
 
We are in the finals voting round, up against some very talented bloggers, so if you have a second to say, Hey, Ana, keep it up!  I'd be so thankful and honored if you took your time to vote! 
Okay, I'll stop bothering and you and let you get to the plans already!
Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x12 @ 12 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 10 feet long
1/4 sheet of - 1/2" plywood
4 - 1 1/2" caster wheels with an overall clearance of 2"

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

4 - 2x2 @ 21 3/4" (cut to length of your leg sides)
2 - 2x2 @ 43 1/2"
5 - 1x6 @ 45"
8 - 1x6 @ 14 1/4"
4 - 1x2 @ 22" (side trim - cut to fit)
2 - 2x2 @ 15 1/2" (for caster wheels with overall clearance of 2" - most commonly 1 1/2" diameter wheels)
2 - 1x3 @ 27 1/2" (cut to width of tabletop)

TRUNDLE
2 - 1x12 @ 43"
2 - 1x12 @ 23 1/4" (1/4" less in length than the side trim)
2 - 1x2 @ 43"
2 - 1x2 cut to fit most likely around 11"
1/2" plywood cut to fit bottom

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

There's a number of different ways you can go about putting this pretty simple coffee table together. I actually put mine together in a different set of steps: I first built the top, then the leg sides, then added the top to leg sides, followed by trundle construction. But what happened is this table is highly dependent on the tabletop as the main structure, and I had some not quite straight tabletop boards. This created a ton of problems for me, so I wanted to present these plans in a different order to help alleviate issues for you.

If you have straight boards and a Kreg Jig, it may make the most sense to just build the tabletop, build the leg sides, the frame, and the trundle, and then put the pieces together.

Either way we go, let's build those sides first. Because 1x6 boards can be a little "off" and end up changing overall widths, cut the trim pieces to match the width of four 1x6s as shown above. Nail and glue on.

TIP: for pocket hole jig users, also join center of each 1x6 to neighboring 1x6 edge to edge.

Step 2

Now add the legs to the sides. You can either use countersunk screws at least 2 1/2" long or 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Now we will build the 2x2 frame. Remember, because the sides can vary ever so slightly in widths, you will want to build the 2x2 frame to the same width as the sides. Easiest way? Cut the 2x2 supports to the same length you cut the side trim too.

It's super important to use straight 2x2s and build the frame square, so take your time here and get it right. Because the trundle basically acts like one big drawer, it's exceptionally important that the table is square so we don't have on giant cockeyed drawer that sticks. Ugh!

Step 4

If you have a pocket hole jig, you may wish to build the tabletop first, including breadboard ends.

Otherwise, starting in the center and working outward, screw from bottom the tabletop boards through 2x2 supports with 2" countersunk screws. Overhangs are equal to sides, 3/4" on ends.

Step 5

Step 6

And then the breadboard ends can be attached to the tabletop boards. Of course if you are using a pocket hole jig, you would have already attached in earlier steps.

Step 7

Build the trundle as shown here. I simple screwed the plywood to the bottom with a countersink bit and 2" screws and glue.

Notch out the handles if desired.

For the caster wheels - I added only four and it's fine, but for a heavier load, you may consider adding another in the center.

Step 8

Because wheels and 1x12 widths and every your plywood might vary, what I did here was position the trundle under the table, and then match the trim to the sides level. I used glue and 2" finish nails.

Then I added the center trim with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 9

The number were painted on with acrylic paint and an angled brush.

Step 10

For the finish, I sanded well. Then one coat of Minwax Ipswich Pine, folowed by Minwax Dark Walnut rubbed on with a rag over edges. We sprayed four coats of polyurethane on to get that ultra smooth glossy finish.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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