2x2 Outdoor Dining Chair

outdoor dining chair plans
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Build your own outdoor dining chairs with free woodworking plans from Ana-White.com

This modern style outdoor dining chair is both easy and inexpensive to build. Features slatted seat and back, additional base supports, it's sturdy and stylish! You can use cedar fence pickets for the seat, or 1x3s.

Step by step plans with detailed diagrams, shopping and cut list with lots of reader submitted photos.

Reader submitted photo by KMATT55 

 
 
 
 
 
Dimensions
diy dining chairs

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long or one cedar fence picket, 5-1/2" x 72"
Common Materials
2 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 17 7/8" (Back Legs - both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, parallel to each other)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 13 7/16" (Side Aprons - one end cut at 15 degrees off square, longest point measurement)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 17 1/4" (Front Legs)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 13" (Front Apron)
  • 8 - 1x3 @ 16" (Seat Slats) or 4 - cedar fence pickets @ 16"
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 15 5/8" (One end cut at 15 degrees off square, longest point measurement given)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 20 1/2" (Back Rest)
  • 1- 2x2 @ 10" (Back Base Support)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Before we get into the actual plan details, let's talk about joinery. I have decided to add pocket holes to diagrams for those of you who use a Kreg Jig, but that does not mean that you have to use pocket holes. If you do use pocket holes for this project, set your Kreg Jig for 1 1/2" stock and use 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. I find it hard to add more than 1 pocket hole on a 2x2 - certainly not impossible, but I find wood starts to split out and such - but you need to make up for the lone screw with lots of glue.

 
If you are using traditional screws, countersink from the outsides carefully with a countersink bit and use 2 1/2" or 3" screws. Then general rule is to use the longest screw possible without poking through. Again, use glue. 
 
 For the first step, you will need to build two as shown above.

Step 2

Then attach the two legs to the center as shown in the diagram.

Step 3

Now the slats. My trick is to use a piece of 1/4" scrap plywood as a spacer as I screw down the slats. By screwing from underneath, you will not have to worry about holes in your seat.

If using cedar fence pickets, use three pieces for the seat.

Step 4

In the original Harriet Chair Plan, we put the supports in first. But I found this left little room for my drill - not a problem for the original Harriet Chair with the solid seat, but with the slatted seat, you need considerably more screws, so I choose to add the support after the slats. Measure carefully and attach in place.

Step 5

Step 6

And add the back slats. The overhang should be 1 1/2" on each end, 1 1/4" to the top. Leave 1/4" gap between the slats. There is no reason why you could not add additional slats if you wanted - I really considered three back slats.

If using cedar fence pickets, use one piece for the back.

Step 7

And the fun part. Attach the back to the seat.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 04/15/2012 - 10:13

I just built the Harriet Table as my first project and love it so much! I'm now moving on to the chairs, and am a little intimidated by the miter saw. I am borrowing one, and am unsure when you say 15 degrees off the square, does that just mean I set the saw to 15 degrees? I'm very new to all of this! Thank you so much!

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 04/15/2012 - 10:13

I just built the Harriet Table as my first project and love it so much! I'm now moving on to the chairs, and am a little intimidated by the miter saw. I am borrowing one, and am unsure when you say 15 degrees off the square, does that just mean I set the saw to 15 degrees? I'm very new to all of this! Thank you so much!

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 04/15/2012 - 10:14

This is just my second project (my first was the Harriet Table, which I love!) and I am a bit intimidated by the miter saw. When it says 15 degrees off square, does that just mean I set the saw to 15 degrees? I'm very new to all this and scared of messing it up! Thanks so much!

claydowling

Sun, 04/15/2012 - 12:08

Don't worry, you'll mess up somewhere. You'll also figure out how to recover. It's part of the learning process.

As for the setting for your saw, most of them put a 0 at square. So setting the saw to 15 would indeed be fifteen degrees off square in that case. The angle doesn't matter in a huge way, so long as you use it consistently.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!