42" Base Blind Corner Cabinet - Momplex Vanilla Kitchen

Difficulty
Intermediate
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How to build a blind corner base kitchen cabinet - step by step plans from Ana-White.com

Moving down the line of cabinets today!

 

You got a little sneak peek of how we built a base cabinet for the other corner of the Momplex Vanilla kitchen in our drawer installation post  - 

 

 

Unlike the other side where we had lots of room for a big 36" pie cut lazy susan base cabinet, on the right side of the range, there really wasn't room for much of anything in that corner.  

 

But we didn't want to waste any precious storage space either ...

 

But at the same time, we wanted the two cabinets flanking the range to be symmetrical in appearance.

 

 

 

 

What to do???

 

 

We built a blind corner kitchen cabinet, of course!  That has the same drawers/doors as the 21" base cabinet to the left of the range for symmetry,

 

 

 

But is NOT the same on the inside -

 

 

 

It's actually double the size inside!

 

SIDE NOTE: Don't you love that prefinished PureBond plywood inside?  Yep, no reaching inside to paint!  

 

 

It is in fact so big, you will need a pint sized helper to adjust the shelves. 

 

That is, if you are looking "ready to pop" (yes, that's a direct quote) preggers.  

 

Otherwise, I'm sure you'd fit just fine.

 

 

We could have actually went even bigger inside, but I started stressing that too deep of a blind corner would become a black hole for all the appliances and gadgets that looked so life changing on tv ... and then really only got used once.  

 

You know what I'm talking about.  

 

 

The blind corner cabinet is really just a base cabinet with a funny face frame.  But there are a few things to consider when building:

 

- Depending on the way your doors will swing or if you have any drawers, you will need filler strips (recommended at least 3" on either side of the corner).  For the blind corner itself, we built the filler strip in by using a 1x6 in the center of the face frame.  This also gives us quite a bit of wiggle room for adjusting the overall run of the cabinets.

 

- Shelves start sagging (depending on the material it could be more or less) at about 36" in span.  So if you are building a 48" blind corner, you'll need to reinforce that shelf somewhere in the center.

 

- If you are using a blind corner hardware shelving kit, order it first and build your cabinet to suit the kit.

 

- If your blind corner doesn't extend all the way to the wall, make sure you add a cleat to support the countertop on the wall itself.

 

- Because walls in kitchens aren't always perfectly square and because walls aren't normally a factor of 3" exactly, use the blind corner as an adjustment cabinet so you don't have to throw filler strips in later.  When we installed the cabinets, we started at the other corner, worked our way down, and whatever was leftover was left blank in the corner.  A word of caution though - make sure your cabinets on the other side cover the blind corner opening.

 

 

 

So let's dive in and get building on that blind corner cabinet!!!

 

RECOMMENDED: Please read this post on building base cabinets before tackling this plan.

 

 

 

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves) 3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves (for top supports) 3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - use cheaper plywood here) 1x2s for face frames 1x6 (or other wide width board) for the center stile (27" length) 1/4" plywood (for backs) 1-1/4" pocket hole screws 3/4" finish nails edge banding for shelves

Common Materials
Cut List

CARCASS 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 34 1/2" (side panels - same on ALL BASES) 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 40" (bottom shelf) 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 40" (bottom supports) 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3-1/2" (can vary in rip width) x 40" (top supports) 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 41-1/2" (back) FACE FRAME 2 - 1x2 @ 27" (side stile - same on ALL BASES) 1 - 1x6 @ 27" (center stile) 2 - 1x2 @ 42" (top/bottom rails - always overall width of cabinet) 1 - 1x2 @ 18" (drawer/door rail) SHELVES 3/4" plywood @ 22" x 39-3/4" (measure and adjust to fit shelf pins) DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4") 5 1/2" x 20-1/2" (drawer face) 22-1/2" x 20-1/2" (door)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

For all the base cabinets, make sure the side panels are cut exactly the same as the other cabinets. Make sure you create the two sides for each cabinet in mirror - meaning the toekicks are on the bottoms, pocket holes for attaching face frames are on the outsides, and shelf pin holes are on the inside for adjustable shelves.

Step 2

We used cheaper plywood (unfinished off the shelf oak) for these pieces because they are hidden underneath the cabinet. We ripped a bunch at 5" widths. All pocket holes are drilled on the 3/4" setting, and we used fine threaded pocket hole screws. Note that the toekick is cut 1/2" less than the front - see next diagram.

Step 3

On top of the base supports, attach the bottom shelf.

Step 4

For the top, we supported the front and back with strips of plywood leftover from ripping the sides. The width doesn't really matter of the boards, just getting the length right on. NOTE: Depending on how you mount your drawers, you may wish to add extra support to the back.

Step 5

Step 6

The face frame overextends the sides by 1/4", but is flush to top and bottom (of toekick cutout) but overextends bottom shelf by 1/2". This leaves a 1/4" lip on inside of cabinet. I recommend building the face frame first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, and then attaching the whole face frame to front with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws through holes predrilled on outsides of sides and top. On the bottom, you won't be able to get a drill in between the face frame and the bottom support board, so we nailed on the bottom with glue.

Step 7

These are the size drawers/doors we ordered from Cabinet Now using 1-1/4" overlay concealed hinges (will do a post on hinges soon). 

 

 

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

JoanneS

Thu, 12/05/2013 - 16:25

Love the title you gave this kitchen! When we use these colors in our home we call them “ice cream” colors, because they make you think about ice cream sundaes – white (appliances) for the whipped cream, creamy white (cabinets) for the vanilla ice cream, and browns and blacks (floor and hardware) as the toppings. The whole room is yummy! :)

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!