Free plans to build a beam bench from ana-white.com
2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x4 @ 6 feet long (or a 12 footer)
2 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long (or a 12 footer)
1 - 2x10 @ 3 feet long (for the breadboard ends - you can also use 2x8 scraps here instead of buying a 2x10)
2 1/2" pocket hole screws
2 - 4x4 @ 13 1/2"
4 - 4x4 @ 13 1/4" (long point to long point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, parallel)
2 - 4x4 @ 8" (long point to long point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square NOT parallel)
1 - 4x4 @ 65"
2 - 2x4 @ 65"
2 - 2x8 @ 68 1/2"
2 - 2x10 @ 14 1/2"
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Build two of the leg ends as shown above. There's a ton of different ways to join 4x4s - I really like how Whitney used a Kreg Jig to hide the joints underneath - check that out here.
Then attach the bottom stretcher to the two legs ...
Next, add the two side aprons - these will give structure to the seat and look like 4x4s from the outside.
TIP: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes facing upward on the inside of the aprons before attaching for attaching the bench top in the next step.
Finally, build your bench top first (I recommend building with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws first) and then attach to the bench.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.