Build your own farmhouse style pedestal table with our free step by step plans for under $100 in materials.
This table features a farmhouse style 4x4 base, with a planked wood top. You can easily cut the top into a circle, or keep it square. We love this table in a breakfast nook, or as a family dining table.
Reader submitted photo by NICKFMC
This table plan was originally created in collaboration with Brooke from Killer B. Designs .
Brooke wanted to build a table for her sister that was square and fit a smaller dining space, with an X base. We were inspired by a table from Restoration Hardware - but who can afford $2500 for it?
Try $60! And this table is solid wood!
Here's from Brooke:
First off, SPECTACULAR plan! Oh, how I love this table. It was a little sad for me to give it away. But my sister is absolutely enthralled with it, and I'm so happy to be able to give her the first "real" table she's had. And for only $60 in lumber and screws, it's an amazing bargain. I had to take extra care piecing together the top, but luckily wood filler is a life saver and filled in any errors in execution. Once it was sanded and stained you could hardly tell. The table looks very pretty and polished. I actually ended up not needing any of the lag bolts, simple 2.5" screws worked perfectly with the angles on the 4x4's. So I didn't need any special tools or materials other than my chop saw, kreg jig, and drill! I'm really proud that I was able to put together such a complicated-looking table in only three hours, and my sister is thrilled that she has such a fancy table to show off! So thank you again for yet another fantastic, easy to follow plan.
You can build this table too - but before we get to the plans, please hop over and check out more photos and building details from Brooke!
Preparation
- 5 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
- 2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long
- 2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long (for framing out top)
- 1 1/4” and 2 1/2” pocket hole screws
- 4” or longer lag screws
- 2” or longer wood screws
- 2 - 1x4 @ 11 5/8”
- 1 - 1x4 @ 26 7/8”
- 2 - 1x4 @ 13 1/4”
- 1 - 1x4 @ 30”
- 1 - 4x4 @ 21 1/4”
- 8 - 4x4 @ 13” (longest point measurement, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square not parallel)
- 1 - 4x4 @ 36” (longest point measurement, both ends cut at 30 degrees off square not parallel)
- 2 - 4x4 @ 16 1/4” (longest point measurement, one end cut at 30 degrees off)
- 4 - 1x4 @ 5 1/4” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, longest point measurement)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 14 1/4” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, longest point measurement)
- 1 - 2x4 @ 32” (both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, longest point measurement, ends NOT parallel)
- TOP is cut to fit
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Start by building two Xs with your Kreg Jig
Step 2
Then attach the Xs to the middle post - don't worry if things feel a little wobbly here, the X bracing will take care of that.
Step 3
Add the X bracing.
Step 4
To the base, add the 4x4s.
If you feel the base of this X isn't stable enough, you can throw a few countersunk screws in on the underside, or even a metal mending plate and screws - it'll be hidden.
Step 5
The feet on the bottom of the table help the table rest on points (so it doesn't rock). Attach with brad nails and glue.
We also recommend felt pads to prevent floors from scratching.
Step 6
Now back to the top, add the 2x4 X and that's the base done!
Step 7
For the top you could simply place a premade tabletop on or just a square one, but we decided to try something a little different. Definitely cut these pieces as you go!
Step 8
Then attach two portions to center 2x4s - measure and cut to fit
Step 9
then measure and cut to fit the last 2x4 and add to center
Step 10
Outside boards are 2x6 - frame with mitered corners.
Step 11
Attach tabletop to base with screws
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.
Comments
jmp1518
Sat, 03/04/2017 - 20:35
Love the table but having a design problem
So I began making a table a month or so ago. I tailored it a bit to use a farmhouse table top. However, now that I am almost done with the table, I am having a “wiggling” issue. This table only has one main point of weight bearing. A 4×4 in the center of the table with angled beams branching off of it. I am wondering if there is a way to stop this wiggling from happening without deconstructing the entire table or ruining the design of it. I attached pictures of the underneath in order to show you how it is attached to the table and a video to show how it moves. Right now I have it attached on all four corners with a hex bolt and on the underside of the table, there are insert nuts. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am very desperate at this point.
Video - Copy whole link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/80258781@N03/shares/7f5zyM
In reply to Love the table but having a design problem by jmp1518
swisher43
Thu, 09/07/2017 - 06:47
Stronger hardware
the 4x4s at the angles are your supports to prevent that wobble. Hard to tell for sure from the video, but it looks like you haven't attached those with strong enough hardware.
If you haven't fixed it yet, I suggest getting 5" lag bolts and attaching 2 per 4x4(2 at the top of each support and counter sink 2 from the bottom onto the base). That should strengthen your supports and stop the wobble.
Kurt
Sat, 03/03/2018 - 10:09
Wood shopping list
We love this table design and bought everything to make it. While cutting the wood I realized that there is not enough 4x4 wood in the shopping list. The 2 4x4x8 only give 192" of wood but the cut list is 193 3/4". I recommend getting 1 4x4x10 instead. Other than having to buy more wood, we loved building this table and how it looks in our kitchen!
Emily Taylor
Tue, 01/21/2020 - 09:38
Replace with Rectangular Top
Hi Ana!(and all others!)
I am getting ready to embark on a DIY dining table journey, it's a small area so I'm wondering if I could use this pedestal base and turn it 45 degrees so that the X supports point to the corners and use a 36" x 54" top. Since it's a smaller table I would love to use a single pedestal base like this but I'm worried about the structural integrity. Would it be prone to tipping, or would a base this sturdy suffice?
Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions, ideas or experience with this, thanks so much!