4x8 Work Table Plans

4x8 work bench plans
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build a workbench without a shop!  This is an easy to build design with minimal cutting and tools, a perfect work table to start with.

Sized to fit a standard 4x8 melamine and plywood panel, designed to be built by one person in one day, this strong, sturdy and minimal work table is the perfect addition to the shop!  The lower shelf can be used to store tools or materials.

Free step by step plans with detailed diagrams, video tutorial and cut list - everything you need to build this yourself.

Plans available in table height, counter height, mobile table height and mobile counter height.

Why I Built This Workbench

I needed a big workbench that I can build large cabinet boxes and dressers, vanities, and tabletops on, but did not need anything super complicated or expensive - as I've got plenty of wall cabinetry storage.

I did want some storage though, for wood pieces.

So I designed this 4x8 workbench to be easy to build, based off using a full sheet of plywood and MDF, and a simple 2x4 framing under it.

4x8 workbench free plans

The cool thing about this project is I was able to build it entirely by myself - despite it being a very large and heavy project.  

 

Video - How I Built this 4x8 Workbench 

 

Other Options: Counter Height, Fixed Versions

This is really a great plan and I wanted to make it easy to build different versions, as you may have different uses or needs for your workbench.  Here's a few variations, but of course, you can make modifications easily on your own too.

4x8 worktable 30" height

4x8 worktable 30" height plans

4x8 worktable with casters plans

4x8 worktable with casters plans

4x8 worktable counter height plans

30" Mobile Version - This is the version you see in the photos and video, I liked the 30" (standard table height), as I'm short.  I also wanted caster wheels, so I can clean under it easily.

30" Fixed Version - This is the same final height as the version shown in the photos (30" table height), but without the caster wheels.  Loosing the caster wheels means increased storage, as I added the extra height to the shelf clearance.  You could modify to add the extra height at the bottom of the legs, if that is a better design for you.

36" Mobile Version - This is a counter height version, with an added 6" of height to the storage shelf clearance.  

36" Fixed Version - This is a counter height version, with an added 10" of height to the storage shelf clearance, and no caster wheels underneath.

 

Free Plans to Build Your Own 4x8 Workbench

We are glad to be able to provide the plans for this workbench for free.  Please send us a photo if you build!

 

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4x8 Work Table Plans

Dimensions
4x8 workbench plans
workbench table plans 4x8

Preparation

Shopping List

30" Table Height Mobile Workbench (4" Caster Wheels) - AS SHOWN IN VIDEO AND PLANS

  • 10 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 5/8" thick AC Plywood, 4x8 sheet
  • 1 - 3/4" thick Melamine coated particle board for top, full sheet (97" x 49")
  • About 70 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • About 50 1-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • 6 - 4" overall height caster wheels with screws and washers for installing

 

 

30" Table Height Fixed Workbench (NO Caster Wheels) 

  • 10 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 5/8" thick AC Plywood, 4x8 sheet
  • 1 - 3/4" thick Melamine coated particle board for top, full sheet (97" x 49")
  • About 70 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • About 50 1-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws

36" Counter Height Mobile Workbench (4" Caster Wheels)

  • 11 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 5/8" thick AC Plywood, 4x8 sheet
  • 1 - 3/4" thick Melamine coated particle board for top, full sheet (97" x 49")
  • About 70 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • About 50 1-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • 6 - 4" overall height caster wheels with screws and washers for installing

36" Counter Height Fixed Workbench (NO Caster Wheels)

  • 11 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 5/8" thick AC Plywood, 4x8 sheet
  • 1 - 3/4" thick Melamine coated particle board for top, full sheet (97" x 49")
  • About 70 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
  • About 50 1-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
Cut List

30" Table Height Mobile Workbench (4" Caster Wheels)

  • 6 - 2x4 @ 25"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 3-1/2"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 42"
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 96"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 14-1/2"- cut to fit
  • 1 - 5/8" thick AC Plywood, 4x8 sheet
  • 1 - 3/4" thick Melamine coated particle board for top, full sheet (97" x 49")

30" Table Height Fixed Workbench (NO Caster Wheels)

  • 6 - 2x4 @ 29-1/4"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 3-1/2"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 42"
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 96"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 18-3/4" - cut to fit
  • 1 - 5/8" thick AC Plywood, 4x8 sheet
  • 1 - 3/4" thick Melamine coated particle board for top, full sheet (97" x 49")

36" Counter Height Mobile Workbench (4" Caster Wheels)

  • 6 - 2x4 @ 31"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 3-1/2"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 42"
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 96"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 20-1/2"- cut to fit
  • 1 - 5/8" thick AC Plywood, 4x8 sheet
  • 1 - 3/4" thick Melamine coated particle board for top, full sheet (97" x 49")

36" Counter Height Fixed Workbench (NO Caster Wheels)

  • 6 - 2x4 @ 35-1/4"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 3-1/2"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 42"
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 96"
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 24-3/4" - cut to fit
  • 1 - 5/8" thick AC Plywood, 4x8 sheet
  • 1 - 3/4" thick Melamine coated particle board for top, full sheet (97" x 49")

 

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
General Instructions

Because our garage floor is uneven, I did have some challenges with the legs being out of square.  So when I went to attach the top 2x4 @ 8 feet long, the tops of the legs were more than 8 feet apart.

Try to find a level spot to work if possible.

As you attach the bottom 2x4s at 8 feet long, use a square to attach so they are perpendicular to the legs.

You can go back and adjust if needed by removing screws and pivoting legs (this is what I had to do).

Instructions

Step 1

To all the legs, attach the 3-1/2" 2x4 blocking to the bottom with two 2-1/2" screws.

OPTION: To increase the shelf clearance height, the small 2x4 pieces can be omitted entirely, with the bottom shelf placed at the bottom of the leg.

Step 2

Attach the 2x4 cross supports as shown, two screws per joint.

Step 3

Attach the long 2x4s to the sides.  Center the center leg set.

NOTE: Check the legs for level while attaching, and check that the legs are square to the 2x4s at 96" long.

Step 4

Cut the corners and the center pieces out of the plywood shelf piece, I cut about 1/8" big to allow the plywood to easily be moved into place.

Cutout sizes I used: 3-5/8" wide x 3-1/2" deep

Screw the plywood down to the framing with the 1-1/2" screws, using the plywood to square up the framing.

Step 5

Attach the upper 2x4 pieces to the legs sets.

Step 6

Clamp the upper full length 2x4 side pieces in place.  

I did have trouble with one of my legs not being "square" and the 8' long 2x4 seemed to come up short. I  simply loosened some screws, pulled the leg in, and then added the screws.  It is important that the 2x4 at 8 feet long fits perfectly here, or your top MDF panel won't work out.

Step 7

Fill in the leg pieces with 2x4s cut to fit.  I screwed from the inside to minimize screws showing.

Step 8

Place the Melamine panel on top.  My melamine panel was actually 97" x 49" - so I ave about a 1/2" overhang on all sides.  The easiest method to attach is with a few 1-1/2" screws through the top.  You can also attach from underneath, but will need to add some cleats.

NOTE: We haven't yet attached our top because I plan to add a clamping track to the top.  I want to try attaching with silicone, similar to how a bath vanity top is attached to a bath cabinet.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!