Barn Door Cabinet with Mini Fridge and Microwave

barn door cabinet
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This barn door cabinet holds a mini fridge and microwave!  It's perfect for dorm rooms, guest rooms, rec rooms, airbnbs, lobbies, or break rooms!  Free plans by ANA-WHITE.com

Barn Door Cabinet with Mini Fridge and Microwave
Barn Door Cabinet with Mini Fridge and Microwave

microwave fridge cabinet

Want to upgrade your guest room, dorm room, break room, airbnb rental by adding a microwave, mini fridge and coffee maker? And also happen to love barn door anything?

Well, how about a barn door cabinet, with mini fridge microwave snack cabinet (that also holds the coffee maker)?

Not only is the mini fridge cabinet totally gorgeous, but oh so functional too!  It's sized just right for a mini fridge (we got the 2.6 cubic feet one) and a small microwave, with still lots of room for snacks or dinnerware.  And the top is nice and big for a coffee maker and serving snacks from.

We spent about $100 on this barn door cabinet - including the barn door hardware! - and it was a very easy build!

You can watch us build it - and DIY the barn door hardware - in this video -

Yep, we DIYed the barn door hardware.  Out of WASHERS.  

And it worked!

I'll get working on the barn door hardware tutorial right away, so you can hack your own for about $15. UPDATE: I've posted the tutorial for this DIY Barn Door Hardware with supply list here.

We stained our door with Varathane Aged Wood Accelerator in Rustic Brown Look-

Such a great color!

Are you ready to have your own barn door snack cabinet?  Start spoiling those guests? You can get building on the barn door snack cabinet right now, the plans are below.

Enjoy!

Ana

 

 

DIY Mini Fridge Barn Door Cabinet Plans

 

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Barn Door Cabinet with Mini Fridge and Microwave

Dimensions
Barn Door Cabinet with Mini Fridge and Microwave
Dimensions for the barn door cabinet shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long

1 - 3/4" plwyood 48" x 96"

1 - 1/4" plywood 24" x 24"

48" barn door hardware 

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/2" x 45" - bottom
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/2" x 35-1/4" - sides
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/2" x 30-3/4" - divider
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-1/2" x 22-1/8" - microwave shelf
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 22-1/8" - back supports
  • 1- 1x2 @ 27-1/4" - face frame center
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 31-3/4" - face frame legs
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 41-1/2" - face fame bottom
  • 2 - 1x3 @ about 21-1/4" - cut to fit - footer sides
  • 1 - 1x3 @ about 48" - cut to fit - footer front
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 47-7/8" - top (cut 1x6 boards in half)
  • Door should be cut to fit, approximately 2 - 1x3 @ 28" and 2 - 1x3 @ 17" and Back Plywood 24" x 19"
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Cutting Instructions

All the plywood can fit on one sheet.  First rip the plywood into two strips, 96" long by 20-1/2" wide.  

From the 20-1/2" strips, cross cut as shown below.

 

A table saw is preferred but a circular saw will work, especially with a track system (Kreg sells a nice easy to use one) or if you clamp a board and use it as a guide.  Another alternative is to have your home improvement store make the plywood cuts, or at the very least, the initial rips - this will make transporting and working with the plywood much easier.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

 

For long term durability and more professional results, I recommend using a pocket hole joinery system for wood joints.  Here is a video with tips for using a pocket hole jig:

Instructions

Step 1

Build the carcass using a Kreg Jig set for 3/4" thick material.  Drill three pocket holes at each joint and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Leave 3-3/4" space underneath the bottom shelf (or simply use the divider as a spacer when placing the bottom shelf).

 

You can wait to add the shelf (after next step) so the microwave is perfectly placed in the face frame, or add now too.

Step 2

Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 1x2 back supports.  Attach at back top with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Build the face frame with pocket holes first on your tabletop.  

Then attach to front of cabinet with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Alternatively, you can attach face fram with pocket holes on inside of cabinet as we did in the video.

Step 4

Measure and cut the footer sides.  Nail and glue on with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Measure and cut the front.  Nail and glue the front piece on.

Step 5

Step 6

The door should be built to fit the barn door hardware.  This is the dimensions that we used for our door with our homeade hardware (tutorial coming soon!)

Comments

rust0r

Thu, 02/14/2019 - 05:55

Heads up anyone building this, plans (and thus material list) is incorrect. 

If using 1x3 for the face frame as suggested, you will run into spacing issues with the rail and washers, note that even in the video she is using 1x4 for the top, sides and bottom trim of the face frame.

pdarosa

Sun, 01/05/2020 - 12:17

I was just about to go buy the stuff to make this and then saw your comment. Can you tell me whether the directions and shopping list are accurate as listed above? If not, would you mind helping me with what needs to be swapped out and why? Thank you 

pdarosa

Thu, 01/30/2020 - 16:08

Now I see where this comment came from. The 1x4 for the top of the face frame is not included in the shopping list. Make sure to add that if you’re building it like she does. 

suz122984

Thu, 05/09/2019 - 23:35

Ana

what about the black thingie at the bottom of the cabinet that keeps the door aligned? It shows in your pictures but not in your plans

LunaTick

Tue, 04/21/2020 - 09:34

It's just a piece of angle iron. Around 17:00 into the video, they explain that.

Dredaybmore

Sun, 04/26/2020 - 22:57

I just got done building this and it turned out pretty good! It was my first wood project so with me being a beginner I was still able to get through this. To anyone wanting to build this, it was really helpful to watch the video first. I did use 1X4’s for the top of the face and for the foot trim not the 1X3 in the plans. If you use 1X3’s there will be spacing issues and there will be a small gap between the face frame and the foot frame! This was fun to build and can’t wait until the next project!

KimmieAnn

Tue, 07/07/2020 - 11:53

Anna,
I absolutely love this piece and I am about to start on it this week! But, I was hoping you could clear up the confusion for me. Some people on here are saying that it’s 1x4’s on the top and not 1x6’s.
🙂

Soccer99

Thu, 08/06/2020 - 23:23

What colour is the paint that you used for this project? I couldn’t see the paint colour name anywhere in the plans. Thank you!

stephan bevan

Mon, 11/09/2020 - 08:56

Hi Ana, I want to build this for my sister, but her fridge is 30" high. I was thinking of either making the sides and center 3" higher, or removing the base and front trim on the left side, but I was a little concerned about the strength of the left wing while transporting it. Which would you do?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!