Convertible toddler table bench- DIY plans
Hi everyone!
Meet Corey!
Hi everyone, my name is Corey from Sawdust 2 Stitches, and I have a problem. I can’t leave well enough alone...
The best therapy usually involves a variety of power tools. So, in the few "spare" moments I am not entertaining my two beautiful, rambunctious, boys, I can typically be found hunched over a sewing machine and/or covered in sawdust. All in the efforts to create a perfect balance of aesthetics and practicality in our home.
You may recognize a few of Corey's projects -
Crib mattress swing - that can be used inside or out
Ikea cubbies into apothecary cabient
Convertible table - from bar to dining room!
And Corey has found another means to make her small kitchen work harder!!
I don't have a huge kitchen, so I find it imperative to utilize all the space I have. I always thought it would be fun to have a little kids table, but it just wasn't a very practical choice . Well, I came up with a solution that allows me to have my "cake and eat it too." I give you... a bench.... that when turned on its side becomes a kids table, complete with seating.
How genius is this? A Bench, that flips on it's end to convert to a toddler table!
Okay, so here's the deal - I've got simplified plans for this convertible bench/table below - but Corey's has done some really nice work notching out her boards and has put together an awesome building post of this project - so you'll want to go check that out first. That's if you haven't already clicked over to one of her awesome other projects!
And then take a second to follow Corey so you don't miss any of her new projects -
https://www.facebook.com/Sawdust2Stitches
https://www.pinterest.com/coreydecker/
http://instagram.com/sawdust2stitches/
https://plus.google.com/u/0/+coreydeckersawdust2stitches/
See you back here for the plans following!
XO Ana
Preparation
2 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
4 - 2x8 @ 17" (sides or legs)
2 - 2x8 @ 36" (end or bench top)
3 - 2x10 @ 17" (top and seats)
2 - 1x2 @ 17" (cleats)
1- 1x2 @ 31 -1/2" (back cleat)
1 - 2x8 @ 17" - one end cut at 45 degrees off square (table support)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
First attach the side and back 2x8 boards to each other. Do this with the pocket holes hidden on the inside, facing upward along the top edge of the bottom boards. The cleat and the seats will hide.
Then you can attach the back to the sides/legs. You can do this again with pocket holes or countersink 2-1/2" self tapping screws from outside.
Step 2
Now add the cleats 1-1/2" down from center seam, with 2" screws and glue.
Step 3
Attach seats on top of cleat. TIP: You may also wish to pocket hole seats into sides and back with your Kreg Jig set for 1-1/2" stock using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Finally, build the table portion by attaching the angled 2x8 to the remaining 2x10 tabletop piece. This can be done with pocket holes on underside (recommended) or by attaching through top (screw holes can be filled). Then attach the entire piece to the back of the project, with either pocket holes or countersunk screws from outside.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.