Convertible toddler table bench- DIY plans
2 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
4 - 2x8 @ 17" (sides or legs)
2 - 2x8 @ 36" (end or bench top)
3 - 2x10 @ 17" (top and seats)
2 - 1x2 @ 17" (cleats)
1- 1x2 @ 31 -1/2" (back cleat)
1 - 2x8 @ 17" - one end cut at 45 degrees off square (table support)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
First attach the side and back 2x8 boards to each other. Do this with the pocket holes hidden on the inside, facing upward along the top edge of the bottom boards. The cleat and the seats will hide.
Then you can attach the back to the sides/legs. You can do this again with pocket holes or countersink 2-1/2" self tapping screws from outside.
Now add the cleats 1-1/2" down from center seam, with 2" screws and glue.
Attach seats on top of cleat. TIP: You may also wish to pocket hole seats into sides and back with your Kreg Jig set for 1-1/2" stock using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Finally, build the table portion by attaching the angled 2x8 to the remaining 2x10 tabletop piece. This can be done with pocket holes on underside (recommended) or by attaching through top (screw holes can be filled). Then attach the entire piece to the back of the project, with either pocket holes or countersunk screws from outside.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.