Benchright Industrial Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Sat, 07/20/2019 - 11:24
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free step by step woodworking plans to make an industrial style Farmhouse Table. Features metal stretcher and lots of details to make your table interesting and unique. 

We also have matching bench plans available here.

modern farmhouse table pottery barn benchwright knock off

Reader submitted photo by SGILLY

We've had quite a few requests for plans inspired by Reclaimed Wood Benchwright Farmhouse Table from Pottery Barn - I get it, not everyone has thousands to spend on a dining table.  But if you are willing to put in the work (and it's fun work!) you can build a solid wood dining table for a fraction of the cost to buy.
The base is sized for a five foot long iron pipe, available at most home improvement stores in the plumbing aisles.  There's tons of iron fitting that you could use to "dress" the table up with.

Similar Plan Option

We also have this table in a very similar look, but built using 4x4 legs. 
4x4 leg benchwright table
Please take a look at that plan as well here.
Dimensions
dimensions diagram for modern farmhouse table
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

6 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length

2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

1 - Black Iron Pipe 60" long, both ends threaded Bolts/Caps and Washers for decorative touches

4 - 6" Black Bolts with washer and Nuts (1/4" would work fine)

Common Materials
2 inch screws
3 inch screws
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

Legs

  • 4 - 1x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 21 5/8" (Both ends cut at angle 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 28 1/2" (End Aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 31" (Stretcher)
  • 8 - 1x2 @ 4 1/4" (One end cut at 10 degree angle, longest point measurement)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 16 1/8 (cut to fit - spacer)

Table

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 45 1/4" (Side Aprons - short point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square)
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 20" (Supports)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 67" (Sides)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30" (Ends)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 33"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 33"
  • 6 - 1x6 @ 67 1/8" (cut to fit)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

We'll start by making the legs. The most important part of the legs is getting your cuts right. Some of the cuts are bevels and some are angles, so pay attention in the diagrams. All angles will be ten degrees off square. Remember, you will need to assemble two sets of legs, and the legs are mirrors of each other. You can use finish nails and glue. Start by attaching the 1x4 to the top 1x2 as shown above.

Step 2

Now attach the 2x4 to the legs as shown above. Use glue and 2" finish nails - don't worry, we'll be further suporting this leg shortly.

Step 3

Now sandwich in the apron and stretcher as shown above. Stretcher will overhang 1/2" on each outside end.

Step 4

And now simply fill in the blanks.

Step 5

Step 6

And attach the supports - these will give you something to nail your top boards on too.

Step 7

I'd love to see these bolted on with a iron bolt for a little extra touch. Attach with 7 1/2" overhangs on ends.

Step 8

Now the end supports. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 9

Bolt the breadboard end on as shown above. Use 6" bolts with washers as done here.

Step 10

Nail down the 1x4 to the ends as shown here.

Step 11

And finally top with the 1x6s. Note, you can use other boards for the top, for example reclaimed wood boards for a more rustic look.

Step 12

Drill holes in the stretchers and add iron pipe. Use fittings to secure pipe in place.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Craig E. (not verified)

Mon, 07/16/2012 - 05:55

I'm in the process of building this now. I have run into a problem because in cutting the breadboard pieces 33 1/2" wide, I've found the 6 1x6" to be 1/2" less than needed. What I plan to do is to score the 2x2's running the distance of the table and notching out 1/4" on each side; however, I just thought it might be good to note this discrepancy...unless I'm just missing something.

Lucia Oei (not verified)

Fri, 10/05/2012 - 06:55

Hi Craig!

We ran into this problem as well but Ana mentions it in the comments. The width should be 33" not 33 1/2" like the diagram says. We had to compensate for that by narrowing wider boards(1x8"; you will probably need a table saw for this) so that they are 1/4" wider than the other 1x6". I wish we would've remembered this when we were building it. It would've saved us a lot of grief!

C (not verified)

Wed, 08/01/2012 - 16:05

Either I'm doing something wrong, or the materials list should be 3 2x4's.

Amount of 2x4 required from cut list in inches:
245.5"

Two 2x4 @ 8 ft = 192"
Two 2x4 @ 10ft = 240"

One 2x4 @ 10ft would let you cut all 4 bevels from the same piece of wood. Then two 2x4 @ 8ft would leave you with a long piece of scrap in case you missed up any cut. So by my calculations the materials list should read:
1 2x4 @ 10ft
2 2x4 @ 8ft

C (not verified)

Tue, 08/07/2012 - 21:44

Once I got to step 9 and attached the 2x6 breadboards to the 2x2 supports, I found that the weight was making the ends sag. I'm sure that once the 1x6 top pieces were all fastened to each other, and to the 2x6's, they may have supported the weight but I was concerned about how it would hold up long-term. So I took some 2x4 scrap and cut 4 pieces 6 5/16" long point, one end beveled 10 degrees. I placed this support piece between the 2x2 end support and the 2x4 on the leg. Use glue and 4 inch screws. Use two screws to attach the support to the leg's 2x4. Use two screws on the 2x6 breadboard, and drill through the 2x2 support to attach to this 2x4 support piece. A kreg jig is helpful for this. Also measure your own table to get the right measurements for you, because you want this piece to be very snug. Once I did this, the ends did not sag. It also adds a little more weight and makes the table a little more sturdy.

ShaneG (not verified)

Mon, 09/03/2012 - 19:38

This plan looks great! Has anyone modified it for end chairs? It looks like there may not be enough room as it is... should I just make the table top longer?

Alicia Collard (not verified)

Thu, 01/10/2013 - 09:19

I am so in love with this table and plan, and about to start building it this weekend. But I have noticed there are some comments above that correct a few minor errors in the cut list and measurements.... Can someone tell me if the original list has been updated or should I go through and make note of all the changes in the comments?? Or if I just follow the steps in the plan written will I be ok? Thanks so much! Ana this is awesome!!!

Alicia Collard (not verified)

Thu, 01/10/2013 - 09:20

I am so in love with this table and plan, and about to start building it this weekend. But I have noticed there are some comments above that correct a few minor errors in the cut list and measurements.... Can someone tell me if the original list has been updated or should I go through and make note of all the changes in the comments?? Or if I just follow the steps in the plan written will I be ok? Thanks so much! Anna this is awesome!!!

Nelson55

Wed, 10/23/2013 - 07:14

I am getting ready to start this too and was wondering the something! Do we follow the cut list now or do we make the changes? Thanks

Nelson55

Wed, 10/23/2013 - 07:15

I am getting ready to start this too and was wondering the something! Do we follow the cut list now or do we make the changes? Thanks

NancyO

Mon, 06/10/2013 - 16:48

Ana I love your plans!! They are encouraging me greatly! So next on y list is a larger new table! I plan to make this one at 10 ft long. Any chance you'll be updating these plans for assembling with a Kreg jig? I'm also looking at other ways to add support without eating up so much leg room ( the 2x6 apron)

Thanks again for the inspiration!