Build Your Own Table Menu Stands – Free DIY Plans!

simple table menu stands free plans
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Make your own tabletop menu holders with these easy, beginner-friendly plans. These wood frames hold menus upright to display, made from affordable 1x2 and 1x3 pine boards, so you can stain or paint them any color to match your space. Menus simply slide in from the top, making it super easy to swap out cards as needed—perfect for heavy cardstock or laminated menus. The wood base adds rustic charm!

The plan includes three size options, all based off 8.5" x 11" standard paper sizes for printed paper menus.

  • Full size (8.5x11”) for standard menus
  • Half wide - full sheet cut in half horizontal (8.5x5.5”)
  • Half tall - full sheet cut in half vertical (4.25x11”)

That way, you can print menus right at home on standard 8.5" x 11" cardstock either use the full sheet, or cut in half, and always have a perfect fit, and they fit right in the wooden stand.

Every menu holder is easy to build with step-by-step diagrams, a full shopping list, and a cut list. Each one costs under $1 in materials! The weighted wooden base keeps the holder stable on any table. These menu displays look high-endframe your menu, can you used for special offerspromotionsdaily specials, and are a great way to display your logo, on easy to print paper menus! Guest will love them!

Add a rustic, handmade touch to your bar countersrestaurant tablecafe countertop, or event tables—without breaking the bank!

Ideas for using these menu displays that can be built in various sizes to get visibility to your customers - special offersadvertisementdrinks listmenu card holders, help promote the restaurant's theme and increase brand identity.

Why I Built this Project

My daughter works at a coffee shop, and they just opened an eat-in area. The coffee shop has about 15 tables and bar seating that needed standing menus, and the owner wanted wooden holders for the menus to improve customer's dining experience. We wanted to help, so we built these menu holders for all the tables. I spent about a dollar on each and made fifteen. If the owner had to buy each one for $20, they'd have spend $300! We are glad we could help out.

 

Why We Love these Menu Stands for Tabletops

  • Menus holders are designed to fit either full 8.5" x 11" cardstock, or cut in half either vertically or horizontally, so you can print menus at home
  • The menu holder stands are designed to stay upright by design, with the base weight heavier
  • You can stain or paint any color
  • So cute, would be fun to have even at home!

 

How I Built this Project

Here's the basic steps that I took to build my menu holders

cutting the boards

I ran the full length 1x2s through the tablesaw to make the grooves.  Then I cut the boards to the lengths needed in the cut list.

sanding the boards

Then sand the boards smooth.

marking the base and adding glue

Marked the placement of the legs and added glue.

nail the bottom on

Attached the 1x3 base to the 1x2s.

slide menus in

Then just slid the menus in.

 

 

Watch!  Build Video for This Project

 

Free Plans to Build Your Own Menu Stands!

Ready to build this yourself?  Here's the free plans, enjoy!

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Build Your Own Table Menu Stands

Dimensions
table menu holder dimensions diagram
Fits either Full Sheets or Half Sheets (cut vertically or horizontally)

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1x2s for the sides
  • 1x3s for the bases
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • medium grit sanding block
  • wood glue
  • 1/2" spacer block
  • wood stain

 

Figuring boards needed per menu size:

Total Board Length Needed for One Full Size Menu (fits 8.5" x 11" menu)

  • 1x3 @ 10-1/2"
  • 1x2 @ 14"

Total Board Length Needed for One Short Half Size Menu (fits 5.5"  x 8.5" Menu)

  • 1x3 @ 7-1/2"
  • 1x2 @ 10"

Total Board Length Needed for One Tall Half Size Menu (fits 11"  x 4.25" Menu)

  • 1x3 @ 6-1/4"
  • 1x2 @ 14"

 

Cut List

Full Size Menu (fits 8.5" x 11" menu)

  • 1 - 1x3 @ 10-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 7"

Short Half Size Menu (fits 5.5"  x 8.5" Menu)

  • 1 - 1x3 @ 7-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 5"

Tall Half Size Menu (fits 11"  x 4.25" Menu)

  • 1 - 1x3 @ 6-1/4"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 7"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer

Instructions

Step 1

Set your tablesaw so it can cut a groove in the 1x2s 3/8" deep, with the groove centered on the 1x2.  You may need to remove your saw guard to do this, read your table saw guide and follow instructions.

It is safer to run long pieces through a tablesaw, so you don't have to get your hands anywhere near the blade.  So run the 1x2 in full length through before making any cross cuts.

Cut the pieces according to the cut list. 

Sand all the pieces now with a medium grit sanding block.

Step 2

layout on a table a 1/2" pieces of scrap wood (I used 1/2" plywood scrap).  Clamp the cut to length 1x2 with grove facing upward to the table, with the 1/2" spacer under it.  Apply glue to the end and attach the base 1x3.  

Make sure fasteners are not in the groove area.

Step 3

Repeat for second side.

Make sure the 1x2s are aligned straight and allow the glue to fully dry.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!