Build your own loft bed plans with stairs all from 2x4 and 2x6 lumber! This super sturdy and beautiful design features a platform for easy access, junior height loft bed plans free from Ana-White.com

Preparation
- 15 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 4 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
- 2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
- 2 ½” pocket hole screws
- 4 – 2x4 @ 65 ½” - legs
- 2 – 2x6 @ 37 ½” -bed siderails on ends
- 5 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - guardrails on ends
- 5 – 2x4 @ 75” - guardrails and base support
- 2 – 2x6 @ 75” - bed siderails
- 2 – 2x2 @ 75” - cleats
- 2 – 2x4 @ 30 ½” - platform
- 2 – 2x4 @ 37 ½” - platform
- 1 – 2x4 @ 41 ½” - platform
- 2 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - platform
- 12 – 2x4 @ 22” - decking
- 2 – 2x6 @ 43” (both ends cut 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) – to be trimmed down in later steps
- 6 – 1x2 @ 7 ¾” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
- 6 – 2x4 @ 20 ½” - stair treads
This bed requires a slat system (1x3s, 1x4s or 2x4s or similar) or a bunkie board mattress to complete
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Step 3
Now here's where we skip the glue. To make this loft bed easy to disassemble, I did not use glue here. The inside width for the mattress area should be 39", insetting the side rails 1 1/4" from outsides. I did this so your PH screws have lots of board to grab into. This bed has NOT been weight tested or guaranteed. If you feel you need extra support - add metal brackets under the 2x6s. An alternative method is to attach metal bed brackets directly to the ends if you have those. Notice the cleat is added in this step to. I used 2 1/2" screws and glue to attach, screws every 6-8" all the way down. This bed is designed to work with a bunkie board, but we just used 2x6s cut to length as the bed slats.
NOT SHOWN: Add the fifth 2x4 @ 75" at the back base of the bed to support the legs at the bottom.
Step 7
Step 8
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
MominFlorida (not verified)
Fri, 09/07/2012 - 06:46
Finishing...how to
This will be my first build...can you tell me at what point do you sand and paint/stain this?? Before assembly, right? Not sure how that is supposed to work. Thanks!
Shanda McKeehan (not verified)
Fri, 09/07/2012 - 10:56
Modifications if I don't have a Kreg Jig?
Thank you so much for this and all the other amazing patterns you have freely shared! My question is, do you have any recommendations on building this bed without using a Kreg Jig? I don't have one yet and my daughter is all over me about building this bed ASAP! Can I just use really long wood screws on the butt joints on the ends? I think I can figure it out but don't want the whole thing falling down while my daughter is sleeping :)
Shanda
Rainy (not verified)
Thu, 01/17/2013 - 21:59
Did you ever make this bed
Did you ever make this bed without a KREG jig? We are wondering the same thing but can't seem to find any answers.
Sarah U (not verified)
Fri, 09/07/2012 - 20:53
question about moving it
After it's built, how would you easily move it to another room or take it apart for moving? I love the bed, but we will be using it in an apartment and then probably moving it to a house after that....
Katie B (not verified)
Sun, 09/09/2012 - 09:12
The shopping list mentions 2
The shopping list mentions 2 1/2" PH screws; the directions indicate using 1 1/2" and 2 1/2" PH screws. Which joints are okay with the 1 1/2" screws? IS it readily apparent as you build it?
Robohead
Sun, 09/09/2012 - 13:44
It's a little confusing at
It's a little confusing at first, but the setting on your Kreg jig will be set for 1 1/2" thick wood, which is the thickness of your 2x4 and 2x6 boards. So you are drilling 1 1/2" pocket holes. The screws you use will actually be 2 1/2" long pocket hole screws.
Quintin79
Sun, 09/09/2012 - 22:01
Screw size
A general idea for building anything is to use a screw/nail double the thickness of your lumber. I haven't reviewed the plans but I would assume, which is not the best thing to do, that 1 1/2 is for 3/4 thickness and the 2 1/2 screws are for the 2x4/6 lumber
Pammylaine
Thu, 09/20/2012 - 14:09
I think what you're talking
I think what you're talking about is step 5 or 6....she's saying she uses 1 1/2 in pilot holes and 2 1/2 inch screws.
If you're not talking about that, then I'm not sure.
Amber Ebert (not verified)
Mon, 09/17/2012 - 03:16
measure your mattress
We put up our bed a couple of days ago after waiting a week for the poly smell to go away and my 4 year old son LOVES it. The only hiccup is that we made it as a full sized (thanks again Pammylaine) and our mattress was not available to measure since we were in the middle of moving and our household goods were in storage. With the full sized measurements the bed slats end up being 56 inches and our mattress is only 52 inches leaving a 4 inch gap that I worried little legs would slip through. We fixed this by making a high density foam bumper pillow to fill the gap since I am 9 days away from having a baby and don't have the time to modify the bed.
Pammylaine
Mon, 09/17/2012 - 07:15
Sorry about the mattress size
Sorry about the mattress size issue! My measurements were made off of the mattress on his bed....Great fix though and best wishes on the new baby :)