Channing Snack Cabinet

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Build your own snack cabinet with these simple plans! Leave the shelf and store a fridge in there. Inspired by Pottery Barn Teen Chantham Snack Cabinet, this free, simple DIY plan guides you step by step through making your own!

Many of you probably took a bittersweet journey today, taking your children to school. We are so thankful Grace is a winter baby and we get to keep her on the construction site yet another year. Who says learning how plumbing works (and is installed) isn't an education?

For those of you with the most heartwrenching of back-to-schools - the one's where they leave you (Oh, I don't even want to think about this!) - I thought I would tackle a plan (and maybe a collection of plans?) to make a dorm room a little more homey.  And I tell you what, if it was Grace going off to college, I'd be tackling this to keep my mind off my baby leaving me.
________________________________________________________
And I want to tell you, you totally made my day yesterday.  Thank you.
 

A special thank you to you for nominating me and voting for me by clicking the Facebook Like as a "Mom Who is Changing YOUR World" at Babble. The winner of each category is given $5000 to donate to a charity of choice. I greatly appreciate your support!

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above. Shelf can be removed to fit a fridge.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - Sheet of 3/4" Plywood or MDF or particle board (please go the Formaldehyde Free route!) cut into 15 3/4" x 8 foot long strips, referred to as 1x16s in this plan

1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 2 feet long
1 knob or handle
1 set of 16" euro style white drawer slides (the ones that mount on the bottom corner of the drawer - should be the cheapest ones)
Scrap piece of 1/4" plywood 23" x 16"
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 - 1x16 @ 28" (Sides)
4 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4" (Side Trim)
4 - 2x2 @ 30" (Legs)
2 - 1x16 @ 24" (Shelves - one is optional)
3 - 2x2 @ 24" (Front/Back Trim)
2 - 1x2 @ 24" (Drawer Trim)
1 - 1x16 @ 29" (Top)
1 - 1x3 @ 29" (Top)
1 - 1x2 @ 29" (Top)
2 - 1x3 @ 21 1/2" (Drawer Front/Back)
2 - 1x3 @ 16" (Drawer Sides)
1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 16" x 23" (Drawer Bottom)
1 - 1x4 @ 23 3/4" (Drawer Face)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Attach trim to sides with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue as shown here.

Step 2

Then add the legs with the Kreg Jig as shown in diagram.

Step 3

Now the shelves. The bottom shelf sits up 3/4" from the bottom of the sides. Attach bottom shelf fixed, but middle shelf can be made adjustable with shelf pins or left out for use as a fridge.

Step 4

Trim bottom shelf and add top support as shown in diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

Build top as shown above, squaring up edges and making sure top is flush.

Step 7

Then attach top to cabinet. You can also use 2" screws from the 2x2s to attach top.

Step 8

Build drawer as shown above, adjusting for square and attaching plywood to bottom. Attach drawer members to drawer bottom as done in this plan.

Step 9

Install cabinet members in cabinet with drawer in highest possible position. Fit drawer and make sure it slides nicely. Remember, the drawer needs to be inset 3/4" for the face of drawer to inset (see next step).

Step 10

Once happy with the drawer, attach face with an even gap around all sides with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Step 11

Finally, add the bottom trim as shown above.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Jami H

Thu, 08/18/2011 - 11:38

I didn't quite expect this post today. We're taking our eldest to college next week, out of the state of Alaska. I thought I was OK and keeping it together until I read the third paragraph of this post. I started sobbing. Dropping the other kids at school this week was no biggie. No big milestones there,(FTR I love having my kids around and frankly, resent that they choose to go to public school instead of letting me homeschool them), but moving my firstborn out of my house this week is KILLING me!
I have to be a big girl, though, and remember that I am the one who taught this bird to fly away. I just hope he answers his phone occasionally and still feels like moving lumber around for me when he comes home to 'visit'.
Thank you for thinking of us, poor ($) parents of *gulp* college students, Ana, you're the best.

TonyaLynn (not verified)

Thu, 08/18/2011 - 13:35

I have one starting high school and one starting kindergarten..and on top of that my stepson goes back to college-he's a junior. It's the first time that my kindergartener has been away from me in any real capacity so I am not looking forward to it, but forunately I have about two weeks left to enjoy. But the house is going to be so quiet all day with the exception of my 9 month old. It will be a whole new world for me. )-:

n8ur9irl

Fri, 08/19/2011 - 05:23

I too was in your shoes. We took our first born to college and I felt like our family was being torn apart. I cried for two weeks! But I have such good news. They come back. I don't mean for the occasional laundry drop off but in later years with gifts so wonderful you can't imagine. Besides growing into the wonderful adults you always wondered if they would achieve they bring Grand kids! There are so many good times ahead even if it doesn't seem like it right now. I hope this helps because I too was in your shoes.

dananryan

Sat, 10/01/2011 - 12:14

Thank you Ana for another great plan!
This one actually got my son (15) interested in building but he would like to make the desk with the smaller file cabinet. Are you planning to post plans for any more pieces from this collection by any chance? Pretty please! This would make a great mother-son project that he can take with him when he goes off to college in 3 (hopefully very, very long) years.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!