Charlie Nightstand

diy Charlie nightstand plans
Error: View not found.
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Free plans to build your own wood nightstand inspired by the Pottery Barn Kids Charlie Nightstand or Bedside Table.  This timeless nightstand features a narrow but deep profile, with a large drawer and large roomy bottom shelf.  

Love the classic, timeless look of the Pottery Barn Kids Charlie Nightstand but want an affordable DIY option? Our free woodworking plans make it easy to build your own! This sturdy, kid-friendly nightstand features a spacious drawer, lower shelf for storage, and clean lines that work in any bedroom.

Our plans include:

✅ Cut List & Shopping List – Get everything you need in one trip

✅ Step-by-Step Diagrams – Simple, beginner-friendly instructions

✅ Video Tutorial – Watch the full build process

✅ Matching Dresser Plans – Complete the set with our Charlie Dresser DIY Plans

With basic tools and easy-to-follow instructions, you can build this Pottery Barn-inspired nightstand for a fraction of the cost. Click here to download the free plans and start building today! 

Want the full bedroom set? Check out our matching Charlie Dresser plans!

 

Why I Built this Project

I built the 7 drawer dresser for my daughter a few months ago and we LOVE how it turned out!  She's been using it and loving it.  After a lot of requests, I'm adding more plans to this collection, first up the nightstand plans!

 

How I Built this Project

Build photos coming soon

 

Watch!  Build Video for This Project

This nightstand follows the same steps as the matching dresser build.  Here is the matching dresser video

 

Free Plans to Build Your Own Charlie Inspired Nightstand

Ready to build this yourself?  Here's the free plans, enjoy!

Pin For Later! 

Charlie Nightstand

Dimensions
dimensions for Charlie nightstand
This nightstand is narrower, perfect for smaller rooms. But it is deep, so the surface area on top is ample for a lamp and creates more storage in the drawer and open shelf.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood at 8 feet long x 20" wide 
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood 24" x 30"
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 5 feet long (drawer box)
  • 1 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 2 - 6' long 3/4" x 3/4" wood cove moulding
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (course thread, about 40)
  • 1-1/4" and 3/4" collated brad nails
  • 18" white roller drawer slides, bottom corner mount
  • knob or handle
  • wood filler
  • 120 grit sandpaper
  • wood paint or stain
Cut List

Cut List is for ONE Nightstand

Carcass

  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 20" x 23-1/4" - sides
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 20" x 15-1/2" - bottom shelf
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 15-1/2" - back support
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 23-1/4" x 17" - back
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 23-1/4" - face frame stiles
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 14" - face frame rails - cut to fit if needed
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 22" - base trim, sides
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 18-1/2" - base trim, front - cut to fit if needed
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 9" - drawer slide cleats
  • 3 - 1x8 @ 18-1/2" - tabletop
  • cove moulding cut to fit

Drawer Box

  • 2 - 1x4 @ 18" - drawer box sides
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 11-1/2" - drawer box front and back, cut to fit opening, should be 2-1/2" less than opening measurement
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 18" x 13"
  • 1 - 1x8 @ 13-3/4" - drawer face
Cutting Instructions

Rip plywood into 20" wide strips.  Then crosscut into pieces needed per nightstand.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Drill 3/4" pocket holes along both ends of the bottom shelf.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the INSIDES of the side panels (for attaching the top in later steps).  Two holes, about 6" in from edges, is sufficient, as we will be attaching the top at the front and back as well.

Attach the bottom shelf to the two side panels with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.  If it helps, a few 1-1/4" brad nails can be used to tack the carcass together, to act as a clamp and keep the pieces in place when you go to pocket hole.

Step 2

For the 1x3 support at the back, drill two pocket holes on each end.  Then drill pocket holes facing upward for attaching the top, but place these pocket holes on the INSIDE of the cabinet (as once the plywood is on the back, you won't be able to access the pocket holes).

Attach the 1x3 at the back with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the 1/4" plywood panel from the back and attach with 3/4" brad nails and wood glue.  Use the plywood panel to square up the nightstand.

Step 4

Measure the width of the carcass at the location of the bottom shelf, and make sure it is 17" wide.  

Build a face frame with 1x2s as shown, so the face frame matches the width of the carcass - this should be 17".  If needed, cut the 14" 1x2 as needed to get this to work out.

Join the 1x2 face frame pieces together with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Tack on with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Step 5

Measure and cut to match 1x3 base on both sides.

Step 6

Measure and cut the 1x3 base for the front and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 7

The drawer slides need inner supports to move the drawer side past the front face frame.  Add 1x2s or 1x3s as shown, making sure they are placed to match the holes in your drawer slide cabinet members.

Step 8

Finish the framing now of the drawer face by cutting 1x2s to the same length as the bottom face frame 1x2 (expected 14").  Drill pocket holes on the ends and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Step 9

Measure the interior of the drawer opening - it should be 14".  The drawer dimensions given are based off of a 14" width - if your opening differs, adjust the cut list so the drawer is 1" smaller than the opening width wise.

Build the drawer with 1x4 boards, using 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.  Attach the 1/4" bottom with 3/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Install the drawer box using drawer slides in the opening, inset 3/4" to all for the drawer face in later steps. 

Here is my video tutorial showing the steps to install a drawer using this drawer slide method.

Step 10

Cut the 1x8 drawer face and attach to the drawer box, with a 1/8" gap around all four sides.  Use 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue to attach.

Further attach with 1-1/4" screws from inside (yes you can use pocket hole screws)

 

Step 11

Build the tabletop using pocket holes, then attach through the predrilled pocket holes to the top, so the base has an even gap across the front and sides (about 3/4" overhang).  There can be excess overhang on the back.  We need the gaps on the front and sides consistent for adding the cove moulding in later steps.

Step 12

Use a miter saw to cut the cove moulding and attach to the base and underside of the top with 3/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill nail holes with wood filler and let dry.
Sand in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper.
Remove sanding residue with a vacuum, then wipe with a lint free cloth.
Finish Used
Paint or stain as you would interior trim work or doors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!