Build a clubhouse bed! Free plans from ana-white.com

Preparation
2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
5 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
15 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws
1 1/4 finish nails
Wood glue
3” screws or bolts for assembly
2” screws for slats
Slats (7 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long)
NOTE: Jaime recommends the following changes to the shopping list because her 1x6 board ran a little wide on the front and she wanted gaps between the wood slats.
- add 2 - 1x5 @ 8'
- decrease 1x6 quantity to 14
NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x6 boards are less than 5 1/2" wide. Jaime found that she needed to substitute two of the 1x6 boards on front and back for 1x5 boards to create gaps between the wood slats.
SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2)
4 – 2x2 @ 36”
14 – 1x3 @ 25 ½”
4 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 2x4 @ 17” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel)
2 – 1x4 @ 43 ½”
BACK WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 1x6) @ 40 3/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 43 1/2” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 46 3/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 53 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x6 @ 54 1/2” (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x2 @ 71”(slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
FRONT WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 40 3/8” (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1x5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 13 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 17 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x6 @ 17 5/8” (under windows)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 16” (doorway)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x2 @ 13” (window trim - recommend cutting to fit)
1 – 1x2 @ 71” (slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
- add 2 - 1x2 @ 14.5" (lower window trim interior - add to inside of windows)
LADDER
2 – 1x6 @ 38” (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
3 – 1x6 @ 14 ½”
1 – 1x4 @ 14 ½”
SLATS
Recommend cutting 1x3 @ 40 1/2” long
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Step 11
I'd cut the window trim a little long here.
NOTES FROM JAIME:
screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece).
- I also added a short 1x2 @ 4" piece across the top point on the interior to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor.
Step 13
Step 15
Step 16
For the window grid tutorial and lots other tips and construction photos please read Jaime's build post here.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
MattH (not verified)
Fri, 07/13/2012 - 21:05
Ana - Do you use Google
Ana - Do you use Google Sketch-Up for your CAD designs? Just wondering. I've been using SketchUp to design and build my woodworking projects for a few years now - latest projects, just built a mission-style sewing corner desk for my wife, and a set of beadboard-inspired bunkbeds for the kids.... anyway, just stumbled across your site, thanks for the good ideas! I think I'm going to make your cube bookcase....
In reply to Ana - Do you use Google by MattH (not verified)
moms got this
Thu, 07/19/2012 - 13:30
Thank you for mentioning this
Thank you for mentioning this sight.. I cant wait to check it out
In reply to Ana - Do you use Google by MattH (not verified)
jigganancy
Mon, 08/27/2012 - 11:16
Yes, google sketch up. She
Yes, google sketch up. She has posts where so talks about Google Sketch-Up
moms got this
Thu, 07/19/2012 - 13:28
Just wanted to say thx for
Just wanted to say thx for the plans! in the process of the build now. I have adjusted them to a larger scale and using it for an outside play house. Added a slide n a few other surprises. Hope to have it complete in the next couple weeks.
Jacqueline Jones (not verified)
Sun, 07/29/2012 - 19:49
Over-all height of the bed
When I look at the picture of your finished bed, the peak of the clubhouse is right at the ceiling. Your plans, however, show 34" from the slats to the floor. That is pretty darn low to the ground. My husband has made the two sides and the back of the clubhouse so far and his measurements are spot on. However, ours looks considerably lower to the ground than yours. We have average ceiling heights. The peak of the clubhouse will not be near the ceiling. I was hoping to put a twin bed under it...I'm a little bummed that we can't.
Jacqueline Jones (not verified)
Sun, 07/29/2012 - 19:49
Over-all height of the bed
When I look at the picture of your finished bed, the peak of the clubhouse is right at the ceiling. Your plans, however, show 34" from the slats to the floor. That is pretty darn low to the ground. My husband has made the two sides and the back of the clubhouse so far and his measurements are spot on. However, ours looks considerably lower to the ground than yours. We have average ceiling heights. The peak of the clubhouse will not be near the ceiling. I was hoping to put a twin bed under it...I'm a little bummed that we can't.
Trever (not verified)
Sat, 10/13/2012 - 06:34
Sheets
This may be a silly question, but how in the world do you make the bed? Access to the mattress seems quite limited. I really want to make one of these beds for my son as well, but I am worried about making things difficult for my wife when she changes the sheets.
viv (not verified)
Sat, 10/13/2012 - 15:17
bunk bed
i love this clubhouse , was wondering if you could share how to modify it to turn it into bunk bed sleeping two persons one up and one down . thanks in advance . viv
Loraine (not verified)
Sun, 11/25/2012 - 11:08
I love this but am thinking
I love this but am thinking about modifying to look like a barn with barn angles on the peaks and room for another twin on the floor underneath. Maybe with walls on the sides and a sliding barn door for the front bottom. I was also thinking about a ladder on the side and a slide in the front where the ladder is. Then it would match Ana's new barn shaped bookcase and soon to come barn doll house. I have a 4 year old girl and a 1 year old boy sharing a room and they love barns and farm animals. Any suggestions? or a plan to modify this Ana?
Matt D (not verified)
Wed, 11/28/2012 - 16:45
Thanks for the plans
My son loves his new bed.