Clubhouse Bed

Difficulty

Intermediate

Build a clubhouse bed! Free plans from ana-white.com

Do NOT be like me.

Last winter, stuck inside for months and months while we waited for the sun to return to Alaska, Grace and I were really missing her original playhouse bed.

Now that I blog, our spare bedroom has turned into my office slash room of shame and the only place we have for guests to sleep is Grace's bed. A couple of years ago we decided NOT to force our guests to sleep up in Grace's playhouse bed and replaced it with the Hailey storage bed.

All has been good, and it's great having somewhere for guests to stay.

But then last winter, Grace saw the Eli Fort Bed in Pottery Barn Kid's catalog and asked if we could build it for her.

I drew the plans up.

And they sat on my computer for months.

And months.

When my dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wrote me saying it was her Buddy Boy's turn to get a new bed and, I knew Jaime would get the bed done and posted and shared.

We worked on refining the plans, and you will thank Jaime when you build this bed for her brilliant suggestion to sister up 2x4 legs for added strength. This also allows for the bed to be assembled in easy pieces.

One week later, the clubhouse bed is done.

Be like Jaime.

DIY this bed today.

Your kids are growing every day, and one sad sad day, they won't want a clubhouse bed anymore :(

Well, if I haven't lost you already - no offense taken - Jaime really built an amazing bed! - I have one request: Please stop over and read all the details from Jaime on how she built this bed.

Jaime added a fort area underneath. She sewed those cute curtains! You can check out the details here.

And she made this surfboard sign too! Check out her tutorial here.

And she added window grids that hinge open! You can get the instructions on making these window grids here.

So PIN THIS project right now to your DIY board and make it happen!

And of course the plans follow! Thank you Jaime!

Dimensions

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
5 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
15 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws
1 1/4 finish nails
Wood glue
3” screws or bolts for assembly
2” screws for slats
Slats (7 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long)

NOTE: Jaime recommends the following changes to the shopping list because her 1x6 board ran a little wide on the front and she wanted gaps between the wood slats.

- add 2 - 1x5 @ 8'
- decrease 1x6 quantity to 14

Common Materials

1 1/4 inch finish nails

2 inch finish nails

1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws

2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws

Elmer's Wood Glue

Elmer's Wood Filler

Cut List

NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x6 boards are less than 5 1/2" wide. Jaime found that she needed to substitute two of the 1x6 boards on front and back for 1x5 boards to create gaps between the wood slats.

SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2)
4 – 2x2 @ 36”
14 – 1x3 @ 25 ½”
4 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 2x4 @ 17” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel)
2 – 1x4 @ 43 ½”

BACK WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 1x6) @ 40 3/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 43 1/2” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 46 3/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 53 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x6 @ 54 1/2” (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x2 @ 71”(slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)

FRONT WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 40 3/8” (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1x5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 13 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 17 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x6 @ 17 5/8” (under windows)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 16” (doorway)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x2 @ 13” (window trim - recommend cutting to fit)
1 – 1x2 @ 71” (slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
- add 2 - 1x2 @ 14.5" (lower window trim interior - add to inside of windows)

LADDER
2 – 1x6 @ 38” (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
3 – 1x6 @ 14 ½”
1 – 1x4 @ 14 ½”

SLATS
Recommend cutting 1x3 @ 40 1/2” long

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the walls with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws. Use scrap 1x3 to help with spacing. Fill upper holes with either PH plugs or wood filler.

Step 2

Now add the legs.

Step 3

And then add the cross supports. Jaime used 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs to attach.

Step 4

And the trim to the base.

NOTE: Attach 34” up NOT 34 ¼”

Step 5

Step 6

Attach top and bottom trim.

Step 7

This is for the slat system. You can use a 2x2 here too.

Step 8

And the cross supports.

Step 9

Lay out your front wall as you did the back wall.

Step 10

And add the trim.

Step 11

I'd cut the window trim a little long here.

NOTES FROM JAIME:
screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece).
- I also added a short 1x2 @ 4" piece across the top point on the interior to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor.

Step 12

And the bottom supports and cross supports.

Step 13

Now move the pieces into the room. For the large walls, try going in upside down, and getting one leg through at a time.

NOTES FROM JAIME: I used 3/8" lag bolts @ 3 1/2" in 3 spots on each leg

Step 14

Add the slats or bunkie board or box spring.

Step 15

And then build your ladder and attach.

NOTES FROM JAIME: gap between rungs is 8", attached with 2 - 3/8" carriage bolts @ 3"

Step 16

For the window grid tutorial and lots other tips and construction photos please read Jaime's build post here.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Project Type

Bunk Bed

Twin

Beds and Bed Frames

Room

Bedroom

Kids and Toys

Style

Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans

Comments

RachelWesley

Fri, 10/09/2015 - 09:31

changing the sheets?????

I love this bed but I'm concerned that changing the sheets or making the bed is a headache.... ?? I thought about adding a slide to the side, although I'm not sure I could get my toddler to sleep in the bed when so much fun could be had. :)

Lovinglifeasmom

Sun, 01/24/2016 - 16:47

Help please, what screws for what pieces?

Would someone please be able to break down which screws are used for what part if the treehouse? It'd be truly appreciated! My husband has purchased all lumber and materials and has begun cutting but we want to be sure to use the proper screws in the proper places! Thank you in advance for any help!!!

jillianjanae17

Sun, 10/06/2019 - 22:38