Build a clubhouse bed! Free plans from ana-white.com

Preparation
2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
5 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
15 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws
1 1/4 finish nails
Wood glue
3” screws or bolts for assembly
2” screws for slats
Slats (7 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long)
NOTE: Jaime recommends the following changes to the shopping list because her 1x6 board ran a little wide on the front and she wanted gaps between the wood slats.
- add 2 - 1x5 @ 8'
- decrease 1x6 quantity to 14
NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x6 boards are less than 5 1/2" wide. Jaime found that she needed to substitute two of the 1x6 boards on front and back for 1x5 boards to create gaps between the wood slats.
SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2)
4 – 2x2 @ 36”
14 – 1x3 @ 25 ½”
4 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 2x4 @ 17” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel)
2 – 1x4 @ 43 ½”
BACK WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 1x6) @ 40 3/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 43 1/2” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 46 3/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 53 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x6 @ 54 1/2” (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x2 @ 71”(slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
FRONT WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 40 3/8” (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1x5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 13 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 17 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x6 @ 17 5/8” (under windows)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 16” (doorway)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x2 @ 13” (window trim - recommend cutting to fit)
1 – 1x2 @ 71” (slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
- add 2 - 1x2 @ 14.5" (lower window trim interior - add to inside of windows)
LADDER
2 – 1x6 @ 38” (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
3 – 1x6 @ 14 ½”
1 – 1x4 @ 14 ½”
SLATS
Recommend cutting 1x3 @ 40 1/2” long
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Step 11
I'd cut the window trim a little long here.
NOTES FROM JAIME:
screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece).
- I also added a short 1x2 @ 4" piece across the top point on the interior to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor.
Step 13
Step 15
Step 16
For the window grid tutorial and lots other tips and construction photos please read Jaime's build post here.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
RachelWesley
Fri, 10/09/2015 - 09:31
changing the sheets?????
I love this bed but I'm concerned that changing the sheets or making the bed is a headache.... ?? I thought about adding a slide to the side, although I'm not sure I could get my toddler to sleep in the bed when so much fun could be had. :)
Lovinglifeasmom
Sun, 01/24/2016 - 16:47
Help please, what screws for what pieces?
Would someone please be able to break down which screws are used for what part if the treehouse? It'd be truly appreciated! My husband has purchased all lumber and materials and has begun cutting but we want to be sure to use the proper screws in the proper places! Thank you in advance for any help!!!
jillianjanae17
Sun, 10/06/2019 - 22:38
Bunk bed??
I saw another post where they put a bottom bunk on this bed. What’s the best way to add a bed on the bottom?
kaycee_ann14
Mon, 02/10/2020 - 12:11
I'm not sure if I'm just…
I'm not sure if I'm just missing it but where do you use the finishing nails?