Here's how to make sturdy raised planters or garden beds quickly - use corrugated metal with 2x4s and cedar fence pickets. These garden beds can be placed on a deck, patio, or even lawn! You can modify to different sizes and styles easily.
This is a free project plan that shows you how to build your own corrugated metal raised planters, with step by step plans, video, and lots of photos.
Why I Built this Project
I wanted some easy to access planters on my back porch for growing vegetables, so I could just snip what I need for a meal or homemade salsa whenever I need it! For about $20 a planter, I was able to make these!
You could dress them up with more wood paneling, make them different sizes - this is just a starting point!
Why We Love this Corrugated Panel and Wood Planter
Quick and easy to build
Budget friendly
Small footprint
Can be used on deck or added to a garden or greenhouse
Only need basic tools to assemble
Grow my own food
Easy to modify for size and height
Visually appealing
How I Built this Project
I found these 3' panels of corrugated metal that worked perfect for this project. I appreciated that I didn't have to cut the metal. I started by cutting my 2x4's and fence pickets according to the plan.
Then just lay two of the 2x4's on their side, apply glue and begin attaching the fence pickets with screws. Be sure to keep them flush to top and sides and then just work your way down adding the other pickets. Make 2 of these.
I went with three rows of fence pickets, but you probably could get away with two.
If you are going to add a stain or outdoor paint, this is the time to sand it all down and get the wood portion finished. Once the legs are done. I also drilled holes in the bottom of the metal for water drainage before adding it to the frame. I just set the panel on top of a 2x4 scrap piece to drill into.
Holes for water drainage in the bottom.
Next, you will set the metal inside of each frame. I used clamps to keep it in place and then I predrilled holes through the metal where I wanted the screws to go and attached it with some metal lathe screws.
You could also using roofing screws here.
The metal roofing is surprisingly strong and structural! I was expecting to have to add bracing at the bottom, but the metal screws hold well!
Once the planter was built, I added some landscape cloth to the bottom and filled with dirt.
If you love the simplicity of this project, but want to change it up, here are a few ideas:
Taller: Increase the height, but add additional support to the legs.
Longer: Use longer pieces of tin, but support the middle with middle legs. You may need to run leg cross bracing at angles between the outside legs and center legs, especially if you increase the overall height.
Refined: If you are looking for a more attractive planter, for about $10 more, you can enclose the front and back with more cedar fence pickets.
Free Plans to Build Your Own Corrugated Panel and Wood Planter
Ready to build this yourself? Here's the free plans, enjoy!
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Dimensions
Dimensions shown using a 36" piece of tin, 2x4 legs and fence picket ends
Preparation
Shopping List
1 -2x4 @ 8 feet long (choose red toned or treated for longer lasting)
2 - 72" x 5-1/2" wide Cedar Fence Pickets (not dog eared)
Metal roofing 26" wide x 36" long shown in the plans. 36" wide panels can also be used, will be a deeper raised bed, or could potentially go wider with the cedar fence pickets
What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!
Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.
What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.
What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.
Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.
Cutting Questions
Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.
How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.
Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.
Joinery Questions
What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.
Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.
How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.
Finishing Questions
Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.
What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.
How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.
Plan Questions
Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.
Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.
Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.
General Questions
What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.
Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.
What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!
What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.
I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.
Care & Maintenance
How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.
How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.
How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.
Want to Build with Confidence?
Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.