Craft Table Top For The Modular Collection

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 02/16/2010 - 23:05
| Print this plan

This counter height project table features two drawers and 18 cubbies to keep all of your crafting supplies handy. By simply building two of the cubby bookcases from the Modular Offfice Collection and adding a desktop, voila! we've got a stylish, simple project table.

37" x 38" x 55"


Shopping List

1 Sheet of MDF or A1 Plywood
2 – 1×4 Boards, 8′ Long
2- 15″ Drawer Slides

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

1 – 3/4″ MDF or A1 @ 55″ x 38″ (Top)
2 – 1×4 @ 31 1/2″ (Sides of Drawer Housing)
1 – 1×4 @ 28″ (Center of Drawer Housing)
2 – 3/4″ MDF or A1 Plywood @ 25 1/2″ x 14 1/4″
2 – 1×4 @ 25 1/2″ (Backs of Drawers)
4 – 1×4 @ 15″ (Sides of Drawers)
2 – 1×4 @ 29 1/2″ (Measure to fit, Drawer Face)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Make sure you cut your plywood perfectly straight. Use your square. Predrill and countersink your screws. Use wood glue. Work on a clean level surface.


Step 1

Dimensions for the Tabletop with drawers is shown above.

Step 2

Drawer Housing. Measure and mark out the sides of the drawer housing as shown above. Fasten the center to the sides, using 2″ screws and glue. You will need to predrill and countersink your screws. You will need to be perfect in your building, as the drawers will not slide right if you do not build perfectly square.

Step 3

Drawer Housing to Top. Fasten the drawer housing to the top, using the measurements above. Again, you must be perfectly square. Predrill and countersink your screws 2″ deep (the screw head will be 2″ inset into the 1×4 boards) and fasten the 1x4s to the top. This will also hide any screws from showing on the tabletop.

Step 4

Drawer Backs. Fasten the drawer back to the drawer bottom. Use the 2″ screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

Drawer Face. Measure the opening from the outside of the drawer housing to the opposite outside. The distance should be about 29 1/2″. Subtract 1/4″. Cut your drawer face from a 1×4 to this measurement. After you have inserted the drawer into the slides, line the drawer face up with the drawer and fasten in place.

Step 7

Putting it all together. Fasten the top to the bookcases, as shown above. Follow the directions above. Do not use glue. This will enable you to take apart the project table easily.

Step 8

Insert the Drawers. Insert the drawers into the slides. If you would like, you can add hardware to the faces of the drawers.


urban artifaks (not verified)

Sun, 02/28/2010 - 22:45

i'm planning this one but want to tweak it a bit to match the size of my cutting table-that way, i can put them together for working on large quilts. that makes the shelf units large enough to hold a good part of my fabric stash!
I'm also thinking of taking out the drawer on one side and cutting a hole to put my machine into-that will eliminate my separate sewing cabinet, and i can replace the cover for hole to have a flush top. just thinking...
OR, maybe just make another top that would hinge down on the back to make a cutting table and eliminate that piece of furniture entirely...
ana, you are fantastic!! i've always wanted to make furniture but kept putting it off-now i think i'm ready!

Anonymous (not verified)

Sun, 03/28/2010 - 14:39

I have two of these desk but they are black, not white. One of mine came from World Market, it has a drawer and the other came from Pier One and it does not have a drawer.

I've had them a couple of years, there are better options that the PB prices, esp if you don't have acces to equipment to build one. I love love love mine. One has my sew machines and serger, the other has my cricut and emb machine. I actually scrap on a third table. Lord help me.


Anonymous (not verified)

Sun, 03/28/2010 - 14:41

Oh and one of mine cost $299, the one with the drawer,and I got the second one from Pier One for $99. It was the display and one back corner had a ding on it.


lorimu (not verified)

Mon, 03/29/2010 - 05:34

I love this table! It will be a perfect replacement for my rickety cutting table. Any ideas on how Jerilyn made her table top look so thick? It's really nice!

Ursula (not verified)

Mon, 04/12/2010 - 15:00

Just about finished with my bookcases and have the materials bought for the drawers and counter top.

Total Lumber Cost:
2 Bookcase Sides: $90
Couter top (3/4" MDF) + Drawers: $40

I believe her counter is probably the 3/4" MDF or something similar. It ends up looking that thick and matches the thickness of the rest of the desk.

So far my project looks GREAT!! I cannot wait to put on the top tomorrow and paint. I will post my photos once I finish. :)

Natty (not verified)

Mon, 05/10/2010 - 09:42

I have the same question as lorimu. I really like the top a bit heftier as well and noticed that it seems to be more like 1 1/2" rather than 3/4". Would you achieve this by doubling up with two sheets and edge banding or using 1-3/4" sheet and then trimming out the edges? Help! I love the heavier top! Oh, and anyone have any tips on how to paint this to achieve the same finish as the "antique white" on the PB website? Thanks to anyone that can assist. We are moving into a new place that's 3 times larger and I can't wait to build some furniture to fill the space!!

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 05/10/2010 - 12:55

The best way to get a "heavier" top is to trim the edges out in 1x2s on edge, which equal a 1 1/2" thickness. You could double up boards, but the top would be extremely heavy. Also, by using 1x2 trim, you do not need to add edge banding and can distress away.

Natty (not verified)

Tue, 05/11/2010 - 03:57

Sorry for all the questions but just want to make sure I'm clear before I start this! Would the edging then interfere with the drawers opening and closing? I was planning on doing this in mdf as I plan to paint it white like the one on you-know-who's site. Any ideas on what finish of paint to use?

Natty (not verified)

Thu, 05/13/2010 - 07:16

I think I already asked but it got lost in my comment: If I use an 1 1/2" strip to trim out the top, giving the illusion of a heavier top (like the PB one) won't this interfere with the drawer front opening and closing? How do I get around this?

Free Plans Made Possible By Our Sponsors