Craft Table Top For The Modular Collection

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 02/16/2010 - 23:05
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This counter height project table features two drawers and 18 cubbies to keep all of your crafting supplies handy. By simply building two of the cubby bookcases from the Modular Offfice Collection and adding a desktop, voila! we've got a stylish, simple project table.

37" x 38" x 55"


Shopping List

1 Sheet of MDF or A1 Plywood
2 – 1×4 Boards, 8′ Long
2- 15″ Drawer Slides

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

1 – 3/4″ MDF or A1 @ 55″ x 38″ (Top)
2 – 1×4 @ 31 1/2″ (Sides of Drawer Housing)
1 – 1×4 @ 28″ (Center of Drawer Housing)
2 – 3/4″ MDF or A1 Plywood @ 25 1/2″ x 14 1/4″
2 – 1×4 @ 25 1/2″ (Backs of Drawers)
4 – 1×4 @ 15″ (Sides of Drawers)
2 – 1×4 @ 29 1/2″ (Measure to fit, Drawer Face)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Make sure you cut your plywood perfectly straight. Use your square. Predrill and countersink your screws. Use wood glue. Work on a clean level surface.


Step 1

Dimensions for the Tabletop with drawers is shown above.

Step 2

Drawer Housing. Measure and mark out the sides of the drawer housing as shown above. Fasten the center to the sides, using 2″ screws and glue. You will need to predrill and countersink your screws. You will need to be perfect in your building, as the drawers will not slide right if you do not build perfectly square.

Step 3

Drawer Housing to Top. Fasten the drawer housing to the top, using the measurements above. Again, you must be perfectly square. Predrill and countersink your screws 2″ deep (the screw head will be 2″ inset into the 1×4 boards) and fasten the 1x4s to the top. This will also hide any screws from showing on the tabletop.

Step 4

Drawer Backs. Fasten the drawer back to the drawer bottom. Use the 2″ screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

Drawer Face. Measure the opening from the outside of the drawer housing to the opposite outside. The distance should be about 29 1/2″. Subtract 1/4″. Cut your drawer face from a 1×4 to this measurement. After you have inserted the drawer into the slides, line the drawer face up with the drawer and fasten in place.

Step 7

Putting it all together. Fasten the top to the bookcases, as shown above. Follow the directions above. Do not use glue. This will enable you to take apart the project table easily.

Step 8

Insert the Drawers. Insert the drawers into the slides. If you would like, you can add hardware to the faces of the drawers.


Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 05/14/2010 - 07:10

There are numerous ways you could get the drawer to open, but still have the desktop appear thicker. You could make your drawer out of 1x3s instead of 1x4s. You could add 3/4" plywood to the middle section, dropping the drawer down 3/4".

Genelle (not verified)

Sat, 05/22/2010 - 18:00

Awesome! I have been drooling over this project table for years! As soon as we buy a bigger home (in the works) I'll be able to get this made! Can't wait! Thank you!

mikelynn (not verified)

Tue, 06/29/2010 - 08:16

This is my fourth project. I love your site and your plans. I did notice that there is an error on the shopping list. It calls for 2 1x4s at 8'. When I started cutting I realized quickly there wouldn't be enough. This isn't a big deal for me as the local blue and orange stores are only 15 minutes away. All total three 8' boards should be enough. I get 21.75' needed.

Craft Table-Ta… (not verified)

Tue, 09/14/2010 - 16:13

[...] Just as a forewarning, I thought this part of the project was much more difficult that the bookcases. Ana modified the tabletop plan to include drawers. It is a great idea and the drawers are a nice addition, but there is a slight problem we discovered after we built and attached them to the tabletop. The drawer front is actually inset several inches back from the edge of the tabletop, not flush with the tabletop. When you think about a typical drawer, the drawer front is usually at the very front of the piece of furniture, not inset. Because of this inset, when the drawer opens completely, there is still about 4 inches of drawer that is hidden by the tabletop. Also, precision is important when building the housing for the drawers, as well as the drawers themselves. As with the bookcases, follow Ana’s instructions for building the tabletop and drawers, which can be found here: [...]

Chelsea (not verified)

Mon, 10/18/2010 - 18:49

Has anyone had trouble with screwing the drawer housing to the table top? My counter sink bit won't go 2" deep so I have drilled down 2" deep and used a 3" screw to try and attach the top but I can't seem to get the screw in deep enough for it to stay and not pop off. Any suggestions???

Jen (not verified)

Thu, 11/18/2010 - 11:53

Chelsea, I'm just about to fasten the drawer housing to the table top. I think I'm going to use Figure-8's to do it. Google 'em (like me!) need to have a Forstner bit to drill 1/8" into the to top of the drawer housing (the part that will connect to the table top). The large loop of the Figure-8 will rest in the recess. The small loop is what you screw through, right into the tabletop. I'm going to use 1/2" screws, since the tabletop is 3/4" thick. I've read that these are pretty secure and allow for expansion/contraction. I'll let you know how it goes (if you haven't already attached...I just saw that you posted a month ago!).

This is my very first woodworking project, BTW. I LOVE it! Since it was my first project, the table would live in the basement craft room, etc., I went with El Cheapo pine boards. Not the best for accuracy. Even a little bend in the wood renders the shelves out of whack to a large degree. I wound up shaving off 1/8" to 1/4" from each shelf to force them to fit. Only one or two fit perfectly.

To drill the holes for the adjustable shelves, use a template. Grab a leftover piece of wood (or a yardstick, if you're new to this and don't have much leftover wood at this point!). Figure out how far apart you want to space your holes, and drill them along the center line of the scrap wood. Lay the template along your board, and drill away! Wrap a piece of tape around your drill bit to mark where you need to stop so you don't drill straight through your boards.

Lastly, I have an MDF tabletop. I'm OK with a bit of an "industrial" look, and I won't feel so bad when I abuse it. :) I didn't leave it Plain Jane, though...I used Minwax gel stain in Hickory. LOVE that stuff! Then I sealed with two coats of polyurethane. The first coat always looks rather rough...sand with fine sandpaper and lay on the second coat. It's FABULOUS! You can stick see the fibers, but it's a neat texture (to me!).

THANK YOU, Ana, for the plans! My daughter and I are looking forward to lots of bonding sitting on our stools across from each other, with all that space and having everything at our fingertips.

P.S. Don't mind me if you see me in the alley scrounging for pallets. :) That's my next thing...

grins88 (not verified)

Mon, 05/30/2011 - 06:00

My Dad and I made this project this weekend, and we just finished all the building yesterday (minus actually doing the final attachment to the bookcases, as I need to transport). It turned out GREAT! I am so pleased with it, and I cannot wait to post photos. We did make a couple of alterations to the bookcases to have more flexibility with the shelves, but otherwise everything went fairly smoothly. Just an important note...this plan only calls for 2 1x4x8s, but you will definitely need 3. I wish I would have done the math on the cuts when buying my lumber...had to make another run to the hardware store.

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