Daybed with Storage Trundle Drawers

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 08/29/2012 - 10:25
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build an easy daybed with storage trundle drawers! Gain tons of storage with this clever design!

We are crazy for traveling two and a half days, some 8,000 miles, to go to my sister's baby shower and spend just 2 and a half days with my sister. Last night I came home, exhausted, and my husband asked if the trip was worth it.

And I said, Of course it was!

I will do crazy things for the children in our family. Because to me, the children are the most important part of our lives, and I am so excited to be getting a new niece!

I remember when Grace was born, and it shocked me how much stuff baby's get! Strollers, car seats, playpens (are we still calling them pens???), swings, chairs, walkers, gyms, vibrating chairs .... Baby sure can take up a lot of space!

So when my sister said she needed a new daybed, I said, No, you need a daybed with some STORAGE!

We have some daybed plans with storage, but we wanted something super inexpensive, easy for my sister to build (she's in her last trimester), and the space under the bed fully accessible. I immediately thought of our trundle coffee table.

Why not make a daybed similar to it? So I drew up a new plan.

And this is what she made for about $110 in lumber!

And there is a TON of storage under it that is very easy to access!

Even my big girl Gracie could put the drawers back in neatly.

The daybed was finished with Minwax Gel Stain in Red Elm, a favorite of my sister's. You can check out the finishing tutorial here.

And of course, plans to build the bed follow!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x8 @ 10 feet long
2 - 1x12 @ 6 feet long
6 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - sheets 1/4" plywood (for drawer bottoms and bed top)
2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
3 sets of straight caster wheels (non swiveling kind)
2 1/2" and 1 1/4" PH screws

Cut List

ENDS
2 – 2x4 @ 32”
2 – 1x12 @ 32”
4 – 2x4 @ 16 ¾”
2 – 1x2 @ 9”
2 – 1x3 @ 32”

FRAME
2 – 2x4 @ 72”
2 – 2x4 @ 69”
2 – 2x4 @ 36”

DRAWERS
6 – 1x8 @ 36”
6 – 1x8 @ 22”
2 – ¼” plywood 23 ½” x 36”

DRAWER FACES
3 – 1x12 @ 23 ½”
3 – 1x3 @ 23 ½”
6 – 1x2 @ 8 ¾”

Cutting Instructions

Cut 2x4 boards for base (the longest 2x4 cuts) first, and then cut smaller cuts from the scraps to conserve boards, or you'll need to buy another 2x4.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Drill 3/4" PHs around top and sides of end panels. Then attach to top header and legs with 1 1/4" PH screws and wood glue. Keep back edges flush.

Step 2

Add decorative trim with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Step 3

Build frame. You can just frame up with wood screws or attach with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws and glue. Attach frame flush to top with ends as shown in diagram using 2 1/2" screws.

Step 4

I changed up the drawers so the sides overextend the front in the cut list. If you do this, you can place ¾” PHs on the outsides and attach with 1 ¼” PH screws. Then when you add the drawer faces, it covers the PHs up. I also shortened the drawer to 36” overall length so you can put drawer faces on both sides if desired.

Step 5

Step 6

My sister used 1/4" plywood on top of the 2x4 frame.

Step 7

Here's an alternate slat system that you could use if you prefer that.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

ctmkgw03

Fri, 03/15/2013 - 04:43

WOW this is AMAZING! I have a hard choice to choose from with all the plans on your site.

best grandma

Mon, 07/15/2013 - 17:36

I would like to make this to fit an XL twin mattress. I think I can make the adjustments to the materials but thought I would ask if anyone might already know them to save time. Thanks in advance,

taimeaka16

Fri, 03/27/2015 - 08:21

I am in love with this design but need plans for a Full size bed. I know I will have to change the width for the frame, but what about the drawers? Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Imadeit

Wed, 07/20/2016 - 13:37

I want to make a storage platform for my king mattress.  Looking at this plan's finished size, I think that by making it 5" longer and 1" less wide, I could put two of these together and have the right dimensions.  I imagine that I would bolt the two units together where they meet in the middle for extra stability.  Anyone out there see a reason this would not work?

amyturnbull

Sun, 01/29/2017 - 13:38

So, a few things I learned along the way..

1. use 2 inch fixed castors

2. when attaching the faces to the drawers turn the faces over and measure from the bottom of the face (the part with the trim on the bottom) 3/4 in from the side and about 15/16 from the bottom and draw marks to line your drawers up and then shoot them with a one inch brad nailer.  This should provide the correct clearance for the drawers to open and close smoothly.  I did 7/8 and it is tight but it looks nice.

3. When attaching the bottoms to the drawers, pay attention to wear you put your fasteners so you can attach your casters without a bottom fastener being in the way.

I think that's it...but I am sure I did other things wrong along the way...lol.  But they look good.  Just need to paint and add the hardware.