DIY Barn Style Greenhouse - FREE PLANS

Greenhouse
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DIY Greenhouse plans - build your own DIY greenhouse!  This amazing free plan has been built thousands of times by people everywhere.  Featuring a unique design to make it easy to build and sturdy, see why this greenhouse plan is so popular.

Plans include step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list, photos and lots of reader submitted photos, from Ana-White.com

We built this greenhouse about 12 years ago, and it still looks brand new and is as sturdy as ever. 

We are happy to share our FREE plans with you - see below.

 

How We Built the Greenhouse

Near completion of the framing stage. We used 12' long pieces of corrugated metal roofing for the side walls.

We ran the corrugated roofing horizontal.  This was very easy to install and we have had zero issues with this design.

We also trimmed the corners out with metal flashing to make everything look nice and finished.

The greenhouse plastic wrapped right over the corrugated metal - like it was meant to be!

 

The only part that was slightly tricky was the ends - but really no big deal to add the greenhouse plastic panels.

 

Our DIY greenhouse turned out great and we are so excited to share the plans with you.

 

 

 

How Has This Greenhouse Held Up?

It's been more than 12 YEARS since we built this greenhouse and it is still as sturdy, strong and useful as ever!  The plastics run horizontal have been of no issue, it's like it's still brand new!

 

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  • Easy-to-print, downloadable PDF (build offline)
  • Detailed shopping and cut lists
  • Updated step-by-step diagrams with build photos
  • Optimized material use to save money
  • Uses beginner-friendly T1-11 siding instead of metal

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DIY Greenhouse

Dimensions
Greenhouse plans
Dimensions are shown above for the DIY Greenhouse. It's a good size for a standard family of 4 or 5

Preparation

Shopping List
Common Materials
Cut List

Cut list is in plan at each step

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Level
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Back wall framing.  Cut 2x4s as listed below.  Screw together with 3" screws or nail together.

  • 2 – 2x4 @ 118 3/8”
  • 6 – 2X4 @ 32”

 

Step 2

Side Wall Framing - Build TWO

  • 4 – 2X4 @ 144”
  • 14 – 2X4 @ 32”

 

Step 3

Front Wall Framing

  • 4 – 2X4 @ 32”
  • 4 – 2X4 @ 42 ½”
  • 2 – 2X4 @ 81 ½”
  • 1 – 2X4 @ 33 3/8”

Build the front walls as shown.

Step 4

Attach the four walls together with 3" screws at corners.

Step 5

Step 6

  • 4 – 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
  • 1 – 2X4 @ 117 7/8” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 1/2" DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
  • 1 – 2X4 @ 55 3/8 (TOP CUT TO DOGEARED POINT, 22 ½ DEGREES)
  • 2 – 2X4 @ 55 ¼” (TOP CUT TO DOGREARED POINT, BOTTOM CUT 45 DEGREES OFF SQUARE, END CLIPPED)

The back truss is built same as front. See next step for close up of the center cuts

Step 7

This board was a little tricky to cut - practice first!

Step 8

1 – 2X4 @ 141”

NOTE: If you use gussets - we used 1/2" plywood - this will affect your ridgepole length. 

Step 9

 

  • 10 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT PARALLEL)

  • 10 2X4 @ 47 1/4” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT PARALLEL) - shorter rafters go up to meet the ridgepole.  I marked all shorter rafters to avoid confusion.

 

For the common rafters of this barn style greenhouse, we ended up using plywood gussets to save money. After cutting quite a few, I figured out how to cut gussets the super quick and easy way - got gusset cutting down to less than a minute each.

We put gussets on both sides of each rafter joint with glue and screws. We made all of the small trusses first on the ground, then it was just a matter of stacking them on the ridgepole and attaching to the studs. We used 8 screws per gusset. Common rafters are installed flush to top of ridgepole and flush to outside of side walls. We had to "toenail" the screws in - meaning they are screwed in at an angle. We used glue and 3" screws from both sides.

Step 10

The plan will get you through the framing.

At this point, you could use plastic paper, lexan glass panels, you name it to seal the frame in.

We used the corrugated plastic panels detailed earlier for installation. IMPORTANT: If you do not use panels you will need some sort of lateral support to keep the greenhouse from swaying side to side. Try 12 foot long 2x4s. 

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

4sandgoddess

Wed, 10/21/2020 - 11:52

Hello. I am new here. I absolutely LOVE everything you build Anna!! Thank You so much for sharing your talent with us all.....
I am just wondering if you or someone on your team still reads these comments? From reading all of them start to finish, I now have several questions myself, that others have asked, that have not been answered.

#1 Is it 32 inch or 33"?

#2 The ballets (I think I named that correctly?) The piece you can buy or make yourself to connect the joints? More info. Please?

#3 In respect to the corrugated plastic panels being attached horizontally verses vertically? Snow load, leaking inside from rain, etc.?

#4 Last but not least, how to adjust the plans correctly for a 10 x 18 Greenhouse?

Any response will be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

Thank You....

4sandgoddess

Wed, 10/21/2020 - 11:54

Hello. I am new here. I absolutely LOVE everything you build Anna!! Thank You so much for sharing your talent with us all.....
I am just wondering if you or someone on your team still reads these comments? From reading all of them start to finish, I now have several questions myself, that others have asked, that have not been answered.

#1 Is it 32 inch or 33"?

#2 The ballets (I think I named that correctly?) The piece you can buy or make yourself to connect the joints? More info. Please?

#3 In respect to the corrugated plastic panels being attached horizontally verses vertically? Snow load, leaking inside from rain, etc.?

#4 Last but not least, how to adjust the plans correctly for a 10 x 18 Greenhouse?

Any response will be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

Thank You....

fallbrookjohn

Tue, 01/26/2021 - 18:33

The plans depict 33” long 2x4’s for the walls, yet the cut list states they are 32”. Which is correct?

Frosty Garden

Wed, 01/27/2021 - 11:44

You can do any length you want on the studs, technically. We used 32" on ours, which allowed us to get (3) studs per 2x4x8 when you split the kerf. We guessed that the original plans were for 33", but it was later realized this was very lumber inefficient.

gfm2965

Fri, 03/05/2021 - 09:47

Thanks for your response! But it does make a significant difference, 32" or 33" studs. For one thing, the tin panels are 36" wide, and the 33" studs bring the wall height to exactly 36" Using a shorter stud means an inch extra on the panels, so you would need to cut an inch off (a pain). Also, the height of the tall verticals supporting the ridgepole depend on this measurement, so what height should they be? Thanks again!

1231georgekay

Thu, 04/01/2021 - 07:44

On the instructions it indicates the studs in the side walls are 33" yet the instructions say to cut them 32". Which is correct the 33"on the picture or the 32" on the instructions?

AndiAndi

Fri, 04/16/2021 - 13:13

Totally love this very do-able greenhouse. Two questions: 1) If I wanted to increase the length of the GH, what do you suggest? Would I need to repeat a variation on the framing ends for support? and 2) as a botanist and horticulturalist a primary concern is often green houses that are too hot and need cooling methods such as shade cloth, AC and ventilation. IF I were to make both ends framed for a door, will the structure still be sound?

Elle123

Sat, 05/08/2021 - 07:51

What about adding a floor...would make a nice gardening shed too, but i want a floor so snakesabd mice can't get in. And we would finish it all out with Wood or metal as we want to put tiller and other garden supplies...fertilizers, hoes, shovels etc...

will2568

Mon, 06/14/2021 - 14:36

These plans are inconsistent in measurements. The diagrams show a measurement of 33 inches for the wall studs, but the cut list shows the measurement of 32 in. Which is it?

will2568

Mon, 06/14/2021 - 14:41

I'm just going to go ahead and assume that the cut list is correct and the diagrams are in error because you can cut an 8 foot plank into three 32" pieces with no waste. I have to wonder how many more inconsistencies I'm going to encounter.

maddog67

Fri, 09/10/2021 - 09:57

On the sidewall image, it shows a measurement of 33 inches, but in the instructions below the image it says to cut 14 2 x 4 by 32 inches. Is the correct length 32 or 33? It's the same issue on the front and back sidewalls.
Thanks!

Mizurati

Tue, 01/04/2022 - 05:51

The height of the side panels (36") exceed the width of the metal sheets by 9".
You didn't specify the tin width in the materials list. How did you get the extra 9"? Do I need to rip another 12' sheet?

romdos

Fri, 01/28/2022 - 22:07

This is my first project on this site. I'm pretty disappointed by the lack of detail in the "instructions" and measurements showing 33" in the sketchup images and 32" in the plans. I especially like the way they made a big deal telling us they made the gussets in less than a minute, but gave us NO CLUE on how they did it. I also can't believe that not one of these comments were deemed valid enough to get a response from Ana or her crew. Especially the discrepancy on the stud lengths.

AndyHadz

Wed, 04/20/2022 - 07:28

Looks great but I'm afraid it's slightly flawed.
The frame is sound and would work as a shed (with timber cladding and felt or corrugated steel/bitumen roof.
There are 2 problems
- the corrugated sheeting is layed the wrong way. The grooves should run down the roof and ideally run down the walls. This would stop dust/dirt/dead leaves etc gathering in the grooves.
- there is no facility for rainwater harvesting. If the plastic sheeting issue was fixed, you could fix a gutter to the edge of the roof and collect rainwater.
Change the direction of the panels and add a gutter then it would be perfect.

@Greenhouse@

Sun, 04/24/2022 - 06:25

I plan on building this greenhouse this summer. I noticed a Kreg Jig in the tools section, yet i see no mention of it in the build plans. Are the gussets holding the trusses together or was a Kreg Jig also used on them? Any thoughts...

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!