Big, bold furniture is in—but the prices? Not so fun. This DIY dovetail console table gives you that chunky, designer look for under $150—and it’s built to last.
Featuring dovetail-look joinery reminiscent of classic timber beams, this console table brings craftsmanship and presence to any space. Whether you stain it dark, keep it natural, or paint it to match your style—you choose the finish.
This free plan includes everything you need to build it yourself:
- Cut list
- Cut diagrams
- Shopping list
- Step-by-step diagrams
- Video tutorial
- Matching plans in the collection
Why spend thousands on a trendy accent piece that could go out of style next year? DIY the entire collection for a fraction of the cost—and love every piece for years to come.
This post is sponsored by Kreg Jig
I am very thankful for my Kreg Jig, this simple tool makes creating projects like this possible and professional looking! I used my Kreg Foreman for drilling pocket holes, but the Kreg 720 or even 320 are great options for different budgets. In addition, I used Kreg VersaGrip Clamps (these are amazing and don't need any special workbench to use) and to help with faster and more precise cutting, the Kreg Track and Stop Kit with my miter saw. Not only are we grateful to Kreg for making affordable tools that make building project easier, but for sponsoring free plans.
Why I Built this Project
I have a pretty boring space in an entryway that needed something BIG and BOLD but I didn't want to spend thousands buying a console table... So I decided to build my own inspired by the trendy bulky accent tables that are the obsession right now. I know this style furniture is a fleeting fashion statement right now, so instead of spending $1900 on buying or $500 using hardwood, I built THIS CONSOLE table with 7 1x8 boards, about $150 total to build.
Why I Love this Dovetail Beam Console Table
- Bold beam style adds style to a space
- Lightweight and easy to move
- Create that timber look without the timber house
- Just seven 1x8 boards to build
- Built by myself in three hours
- Finish in any color stain of choice
- Build the entire collection with plans from Ana White
How I Built this Project
I started by making miter cuts for building the top and side panels. I set my saw to a 45 degree bevel and cut the miter cuts.
For the main joinery, I am using Kreg Pocket Holes. I have the Kreg Foreman and love it! Makes joinery fast and easy!
The top and the two sides are 1x8s joined together edge to edge, or a flat joint. I use a vertical method for minimal clamps and more control over both sides of the joint.
Once the panels are joined together, then I attached the top to the two outside leg panels. I added some blocking in to reinforce this joint.
Then, I cut the leg fronts and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue, making sure all outside edges are flush (this is important, as this squares up the top and side joints).
Here's the two front legs added.
Then I cut to fit the front board and attached it to the top with brad nails and glue.
On the inside, I also attached with pocket hole screws.
Then I built the two inside panels using my Kreg Jig, and attached the panels inside the legs with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue. I also used pocket holes to attach the inside leg panels to the underside of the tabletop.
I then filled holes with wood filler and sanded the entire project, working in the direction of the wood grain.
Now for the dovetail look - I marked out with a pencil, and then used a small chisel along a straight edge to create a groove where a joint would be.
Then I used the chisel to make lines to look like the wood grain is an end grain. This will also accept more stain and be a darker color.
Then I applied Varathane Hazelnut stain to the entire project. See how the color is darker where I used the chisel?
Watch! Build Video for This Project
Matching Coffee Table? End Table Plans? Yes, We Have Them! Build the Entire Collection
I loved this plan so much, I designed plans for the entire collection! If you were to buy the console table, coffee table, and two end tables, you could spend as much as $6000!!! This is crazy, especially for a trendy set that will go out of style in 10-20 years. You can build the entire set for under $1000! Here's the entire collection as a premium bundle.
Recommended: Get the Premium PDF Plan Bundle
Want all the Dovetail Beam accent table furniture plans in one place? No ads, premium formatting, easy to access, save and print.
Free Plans to Build Your Own Dovetail Beam Console Table
Ready to build this yourself? Here's the free plans, enjoy!
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Preparation
- 5 - 1x8 @ 96" long
- 2 - 1x8 @ 72" long - cut top boards from these boards
- 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (pack of 100)
- 1-1/4" brad nails
- 2 - 1x8 @ 72" - both ends beveled at 45 degrees, long point to long point measurement
- 4 - 1x8 @ 30" - one end beveled at 45 degrees, long point measurement
- 4 - 1x8 @ 30"
- 2 - 1x8 @ about 57-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
- 4 - 1x8 @ 29-1/4"
Cutting Layout Diagram
NOTE: The 72" top pieces are cut from the 1x8s @ 72" long
Precise cutting is very important in this project plan. Use a miter saw that is calibrated.
Instructions
Step 1
Make sure the two top board pieces are cut to exactly the same length, with ends beveled.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along one edge of one of the boards. Join together with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
NOTE: Reference Skill 8 in my 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture Course for joining together perfectly without a big work table.
Step 2
Repeat the steps to make the two leg sides. Then attach to the top with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.
NOTE: I ended up adding some blocking as shown in the photo using 1x8 scraps to further secure this joint.
Step 3
Attach the front part of the legs to the top and outer legs, using 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue, all outside edges are perfectly flush.
Step 4
Measure and cut to fit the center piece, drill 3/4" pocket holes on the ends.
I attached first with brad nails and glue at the top, then went back and screwed the pocket holes from the inside.
Step 5
Join the final inside leg pieces together.
I drilled two 3/4" pocket holes on the panels, on the FINISHED side, at the TOP so I could attach the panels the top, on the underside.
Then I set the panels in place and attached with brad nails to the legs.
Then I attached on the inside to the underside of the top through the pocket holes.
Step 6
Mark out the dovetail joinery look. Score with a flat headed screw driver, to give the look of cut lines. Then score inside the areas to give the look of an end grain, also roughing up the wood so it will accept more stain (as an end grain does).
I sanded the entire project in the direction of the wood grain.
I removed all sanding residue.
I added a coat of clear polyurethane to the top to protect it.