DIY Modern Farmhouse Nightstand – Stylish, Functional & Budget-Friendly

simple modern nightstand free plans
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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This DIY modern farmhouse nightstand combines clean lines with practical storage, featuring a spacious drawer, a generous tabletop, and an open lower shelf. Crafted from affordable materials, it's designed to complement your farmhouse bed without overshadowing it. Whether you're using leftover plywood or purchasing new supplies, you can build this stylish piece for around $25–$50. Its versatile design also makes it suitable as a side table in your living room.With free plans and step-by-step instructions, this project is perfect for intermediate woodworkers looking to add a functional and attractive piece to their home.

DIY Modern Farmhouse Nightstand – Stylish, Functional & Budget-Friendly
DIY Modern Farmhouse Nightstand – Stylish, Functional & Budget-Friendly
DIY Modern Farmhouse Nightstand – Stylish, Functional & Budget-Friendly

Here's a great plan to build your own nightstand - the simple sturdy style features a large open bottom shelf and drawer.  The 2x2 framing gives it a modern look, with just some simple panels in between.

We've had this nightstand for many years, have used in for all our kids, it holds up well, the drawer is perfect, and the sizing is great.

 

I love the big roomy drawer, spacious top, and open bottom shelf.  

This modern style nightstand is also just the right size to use as an end table or side table in your living room.

I had alot of scrap plywood pieces that I burned up on this project - so spent about $25 building it.  But if you buy all new materials - plan on about $50 a nightstand - what a bargain for such a beautiful simple piece.  And if you are building two - double the savings!

The free plans are below - do share if you build, we love seeing your projects!

 

 

Video Showing the Build Process

And the "kids" nightstand plans are available here -

And the Modern Farm Bed Plans are here.

PSSS - If you aren't ready to build just yet, be sure to pin for later!

 

Dimensions
modern nightstand plans
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

 

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 22-1/2" - Legs
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 19-1/2" - Front Frame 
  • 7 - 2x2 @ 16-1/2" - Remaining Frame pieces
  • 3 - 3/4" plywood @ 16-1/2" x 7-1/4" - side/back 
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 16-1/2" x 16-1/2" - top/shelf
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 18" - drawer sides
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 14" - drawer front/back
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 18" x 15-1/2" - drawer bottom
  • 1 - 1x6 or 3/4" plywood @ 5-1/2" x 16-1/4" - drawer face
Cutting Instructions

All 3/4" plywood pieces can be cut from a 24" x 48" off the shelf panel.  

First cut a strip 48" long x 16-1/2" wide.  Cut a second strip 48" long x 7-1/4" wide.  Cut using either a table saw or a circular saw.  If using a circular saw, it is highly recommended to use a guide or track.

Once the long strips are cut, cross cut the pieces to the right size.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

For all 2x2 to 2x2 joints, use a single 1-1/2" pocket hole and 2-1/2" pocket hole screw, with glue.

Build two of the frames shown in diagram above.

Step 2

Attach front and back frames with the 16-1/2" long 2x2s.

Step 3

Attach front drawer frame piece with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4

Set circular saw blade depth to about 1/8".  Make false cuts 1-1/2" up from bottom edge of 3/4" plywood with circular saw to look like 2x2.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on sides and top of plywood pieces on inside.  Attach inside the 2x2 side frame flush to outside with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Repeat for back (optional for bedside table).

 

Step 5

Step 6

Build drawer box with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket holes screws.  Attach drawer bottom with 3/4" brad nails and glue, making sure drawer box is square.

Install drawer in cabinet, attaching drawer slides to the 2x2 framing.

Step 7

Position drawer face on drawer box with an even gap around all four sides.  Attach with two 1-1/4" brad nails through face (avoid areas where knob or pull will be installed).

Remove drawer and further secure from inside with a couple of 1-1/4" pocket hole screws or similar.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
For the finish on this nightstand, I used Behr Marquee in off the shelf White. It is my go-to white finish, one step and done!

Comments

Skiziks

Fri, 06/15/2018 - 09:46

Plans usually simply say: Attach drawer slides....

And that's it, no further details. Installing drawer slides isn't the easy step of following a plan for some of us. There is an art, some expertise required to: "install drawer slides". Hopefully some day there will be a bit more detail to accomplish this task. 

builderwifey

Tue, 04/28/2020 - 16:06

Ana-I just started this project and am already stuck! For step one, it says to add one 1 1/2" and one 2 1/2" pocket screw. Do I put them next to each other or different sides or one in front of the other? Also, where it says pocket hole screw on the lower support 2x2, what size should I be using? Also, the material list says 1 1/4" pocket screws, but the plans say 1 1/2", can I use either? Any help would be very appreciated!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!