Eco Office File Base - Made with PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood

Difficulty
Advanced
| Print this plan

Base cabinet inspired by West Elm Modular Office Collection, made with PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood. Bottom drawer sized for files.

Remember my Formaldehyde free office I'm working on?

There's the open base
And there's the large bookshelf in the middle . . . but did you notice the drawer base in the corner?
It's actually a file base, and it makes up the other half of the Ram's cubicle.
Would you laugh at me if I said I have waited to post this plan because I don't really care too much for the hardware?  But up here in Alaska, getting new hardware ordered could be weeks . . . and everyone should have an opportunity to enjoy their very own formaldehyde free office space sooner, rather than later.  
Like the rest of the office space we used PureBond Formaldahyde free hardwood plywood in Red Oak, available at the Home Depot.  Special thanks to Columbia Forest Products for supplying the plywood.
Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - Sheet 3/4" PureBond Hardwood Plywood (Available at the Home Depot)
1 - Sheet 1/4" PureBond Hardwood Plywood (Available at the Home Depot)
3 - 21" Drawer Slides, Euro Style (the cheapo white ones)
1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long in matching hardwood (Optional - you can use plywood for this step)
1 - 25' long roll Edge Banding in matching veneer

Common Materials
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 - 3/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 22" (Top/Bottom)
2 - 3/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 26 1/2" x 22" (Sides)
1 - 3/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 12 1/2" x 15 1/4" (Drawer Face)
2 - 3/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 6" x 15 1/4" (Drawer Face)
2 - 3/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 21" x 11 1/2" (File Drawer Sides)
2 - 3/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 13" x 11 1/2" (File Drawer Front/Back)
4 - 3/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 21" x 5" (Small Drawer Sides)
4 - 3/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 13" x 5" (Small Drawer Sides)
1 - 1/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 17" x 26 1/2" (Back)
3 - 1/4" PureBond Formaldehyde Free Plywood @ 14 1/2" x 21" (Drawer Bottoms)
2 - 1x2 @ 19" (Footer)
2 - 1x2 @ 15 1/2" (Footer)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

I'd say the most intimidating thing about working with plywood is knowing how to cut it. You want to be very careful, because plywood has a wood grain, and if your pieces aren't cut correctly, you'll end up with mis matched wood grains. And then of course there's taking into account the width of a saw blade, and understanding that a saw blade doesn't cut corners . . .

So follow this plywood cutout as shown above. You can ask your Home Depot to make the rip cuts and then take the strips home - that's what I do to fit everything in my car. Start by ripping 22" off of the plywood. From this piece, you will cut yoru top, bottom and sides. Then from the remaining piece, cut 15 1/4" off of it, approximately 26" wide, as shown in the diagram. You will cut your drawer faces from these pieces. Finally, rip the remaining plywood piece into one 11 1/2" wide strip and two 6" wide strips. If you are using plywood for the footer and not 1x2s, rip the remaining scrap into a 1 1/2" wide strip.

Cut out all pieces now according to the cut list.

Step 2

I've given instructions to use both a Kreg Jig and simple screws throughout. For Kreg Jig users, you will want to set your jig for 3/4" stock and use 1 1/4" pocket holes. If you are using screws, use a countersink bit and 2" screws and glue and take extra measures to check for square. Build your box as shown above.

Step 3

Adjust the box for square and glue and nail the back on.

Step 4

You can use either 1x2s or strips of the 3/4" plywood cut into 1 1/2" widths here. If you have a pocket hole jig, attach with the pocket hole jig, or otherwise, use corner bracing to attach to base.

Step 5

Step 6

Install drawers using the drawer slides. Start with the bottom drawer, install it as close to the bottom as possible and work your way upwards. Note that all drawers need to be installed 3/4" inset from the front to allow for drawer faces.

Step 7

Once all of your drawer boxes are intalled, line the drawer faces up so there is an even gap and attach with 1 1/4" finish nails. Remove drawers and further attach faces with 1 1/4" screws from the inside of the drawers.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

fethiye

Tue, 07/12/2011 - 16:52

Unless I am mistaken, the drawer face is also made from 3/4 plywood. Why not use 1/4 plywood for that, and use the 3/4 plywood for the bottom, where it may be holding weight?

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 07/14/2011 - 13:28

I think you can probably build the drawers however you want. I use half inch ply for the face and sides and router in a groove for a 1/4" ply bottom.

Mike K (not verified)

Tue, 08/09/2011 - 06:29

From most posts, you recommend to put an edge banding for plywood to make it look smooth. Here there is nothing saying that? But in the final pictures everything looks smooth. Did you just sand it smooth or was the wood like that?

Supermom77 (not verified)

Sun, 09/18/2011 - 20:53

What color would you paint the wall behind the desk if it is made of cherry? Sugestions please.

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 10/06/2011 - 16:13

I am totally psyched to start this project. This will be my first major project like this and I have many questions.

Do you use a particular kind of varnish? Since we are going through the trouble of using formaldehyde free wood, I figure it also matters what you put on the wood.

I haven't found any 21" drawer slides. I found both 20" and 22". Would one of these work or am I looking for the wrong thing altogether?

I also can't seem to get the pdf for this project to open. Does it have additional instructions in it? I'm going to need all the help I can get.

Thanks much! I love your site. I think my husband hates it because now I want to do so many different projects. Hopefully, I will make some amazing things and change his mind. :)

Jim Sears (not verified)

Fri, 11/11/2011 - 07:38

This is a very good plan. However, nobody makes a 21" drawer slide as the plans suggest. I used a set of 20" drawer slides instead. But you could increase the size of the carcass sides, top, bottom and the drawer sides by 1", and use 22" slides. But the 20" slides work just fine.

Greg Veltri (not verified)

Thu, 11/29/2012 - 08:00

If you google 21" drawer slides you will come up with dozens of suppliers of 21" drawer slides, so yes they do make them. However I could not find them local, had to order them off of Amazon.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!