Fancy X Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 05/23/2019 - 11:19
| Print this plan

Build the Fancy X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s and lumber for $65.  A reader favorite, this table has been built thousands of times.  

We also have plans for a matching bench and lots more farmhouse furniture plans.

dark wood stained farmhouse table with X legs and cross bracing
side view of farmhouse table with cross bracing

Whitney from Shanty2Chic and I teamed up to help you get that designer look without the price tag! 

Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.

This is my very favorite build yet! I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight. Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!

Head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!

Thanks Whitney!!!

Pin For Later! 

Fancy X Farmhouse Table

dimensions diagram of farmhouse table with X bracing
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List

4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long

7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long

3” self tapping wood screws 

2 ½” pocket hole screws

2” finish nails

Cut List


  • 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
  • 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”


2 – 2x4 @ 65”

2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)

4 – 2x10 @ 96”

** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:

4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws

Step 2

Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side

Step 3

And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.

Step 4

And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8”  short point to short point. 

Step 5

Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends

Step 6

Followed by the little feet ...

Step 7

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges

Step 8

The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes.  But you will have to fill later with wood filler.

An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.

Step 9

And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.

If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.

Step 10

And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.

Step 11

For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Thu, 11/14/2013 - 23:33

I eventually gave up on the 2x boards for a table top, they just weren't working to create the type of surface I wanted. I ended up buying two pre-glued pine panels and putting them together (at about $30 a pop) and although the tabletop is less than half the thickness of the original plan, I'm much happier with it, and it's taking place of honor in our dining room. I just entered a "brag" post which is on page 15 of the above slide strip if anyone is interested.
Not even counting the wood that got tossed (which was a bunch, although I did re-use the 2x10s by making raised garden beds with them), I'd roughly estimate this project ended up costing about $120, or about twice what is stated at the top of the plan page. That's for 2x4s, the two pine panels, hardware, stain, polyurethane, etc.
It was an amazingly frustrating experience as I think I had pictured something in my head that just wasn't going to happen with these materials, however I'm pretty happy with the eventual end result.


Mon, 06/09/2014 - 01:32

I've just been reading through all the comments on this project, and I saw that you had repeated problems with 2x10s warping _in your basement_. Don't know what your basement is like, but it's bound to be damper and colder than your dining room, as you said you were wanting to build a dining room table. You should really let the wood acclimate where it's going to be used.

When we built our deck, we left the wood out back of the house for a week before we started. Luckily, our very careful screening for bad boards paid off and we could use all but one out of more than 100. Same procedure for wood flooring, letting it rest in the room(s) where it will be used.

Anyway, if you're making a picnic table, let the wood adjust to its new environment outside. A dining room table, let it wait in the dining room. You're much less likely to have nasty surprises as your project "ages," if the wood was fully acclimated before you started to cut and assemble. HTH


Fri, 01/31/2014 - 12:52

Does anyone have a plan or know of where I can get a plan for this but in shorter length? The table I have right now is 64 inch and would like to have it similar to that.


Tue, 02/18/2014 - 18:09

After building the table and deciding I wanted matching benches for it I started looking for plans, with no luck. I decided to use the 2/3 method and it worked great. Here are the measurements for one bench.

I used four 2"x4"x8' and two 2"x10"x8'

Cut List: (All are 2"x4" Lumber except when noted.)
4 - 13 3/8" Cut flush on ends (Bench Leg Spine)
8 - 7 5/8" Cut 45 degrees off center on both ends (X's)
4 - 16 1/2" Cut 45 degrees off center on both ends
4 - 16 1/2" Cut flush on ends
2 - 57" (Bench Stringers)
2 - 17" Ends Cut 45 Degrees parallel (Bench Stringer Supports)
2 - 86" 2"x10" (Bench Seats)

I left the 1x lumber out of the benches because I did not do the rounded look and I wanted them to be about 21" tall.

I began assembling the legs just like the table, measure 5 1/2" from each end of the 13 3/8" pieces and mark a square line on each. This is there you line up the X pieces. Assemble just like you did the table legs until you have both of your frames.

Next, I screwed the 16 1/2" 45 degree off center piece onto the X in place of the 1"x4" from the table, short side toward the X, this lined the miter up with the angle of the X for a nice clean look. Next, I screwed the 16 1/2" flush cut piece to the mitered piece, finishing out that side. I repeated this until both frames were complete.

The distance between my table legs was 65 1/4" and I wanted the bench legs to slide just inside of the table legs. I decided to make the outside distance of the bench legs 64". With 7" in width on the legs I made the stringers 57" each. Screw them to the top and bottom of the bench legs just like you did with the table.

I then attached the 17" seat stringer supports with screws, finishing out the frame.

****Note**** I went ahead and sanded the frame because it was much easier to get to without the seat boards attached.

I then attached the seat boards to the legs with an 11" overhang on each end. I sanded and finished it to match the table. It is drying in my shop as we speak.

I hope this made sense, if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.


Mon, 02/09/2015 - 09:27

Thanks Robert for taking the time to post plans on here for the benches! I am moving into my first house in May and plan to make the table and a bench for the new house. Please keep an eye out for questions in May! :)


Wed, 02/26/2014 - 12:16

Is there any way to make this table a little more narrow? Instead of 37 inches wide, say.....32/33? Maybe use 2x8's instead of 2x10's for the top? We have a narrow eating area and the table as is is a bit too wide.


Thu, 05/22/2014 - 12:42

This is my first project and I'm super excited about it. The plans don't say how to attach the table top. Any suggestions?

Free Plans Made Possible By Our Sponsors