Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

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White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

 

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

Dimensions
diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"

Preparation

Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.

 

 

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Kent (not verified)

Sun, 12/19/2010 - 05:40

I had the same issue. I finished building the headboard last night, and the middle panel piece doesn't look that bad actually.

Shannon King (not verified)

Tue, 12/21/2010 - 15:39

We are almost done with ours..including the box spring. We did some changes like attatching the side rails to the front of the 4x4 posts, because it wasn't big enough for our box spring the way the plans listed. We then lowered the inside frame to the very botton of the side rails. We did some modifications on bolts, and strength too. We drilled out 1.5 in holes and filled them with dowel to screw the bolts into because it didn't seem strong enough for the box spring and the wood is really heavy. We are almost done and I am a little sad that we had to make so many changes to make it strong enough and to fit our mattress set. I am also really disappointed that the foot board is so low. But at this point there is not much we could do without taking the whole footboard apart. I would make the 4x4's for the footboard alot taller if I was doing it again, it looks really low with the box spring, not what I wanted at all. I'll post a picture in a few weeks when it's all done.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 10/30/2011 - 15:42

has anyone submitted proper instructions on the dimensions of a king size 80x76 with a box spring that is two pieces?

Sara (not verified)

Wed, 12/29/2010 - 09:01

We also had the same issue with the panel. We had to add 2 small panels on either side to make it look right.

Craig (not verified)

Tue, 01/04/2011 - 06:50

I think I am going to build this bed. We just upgraded to a Queen foam sans box spring and this will work out great. Good feedback from those who have found minor flaws on the plans.
Thanks Ana for the great DIY plans.
I continue to update and post some final pics.

Craig (not verified)

Tue, 01/04/2011 - 09:47

Ana,
Question. If we foresee the need to disassemble the bed every so often what would you recommend for attaching the support joists to the side rails?
Here is what I was thinking for the head/foot boards and side rails.
Use bed rail fasteners for the side rails to head board and foot board and using a surface mounted keyhole bed rail bracket for the support joists.

I am going to make this frame for a foam mattress. I was thinking of recessing the support rails about an inch to lock the bed into the frame so it wouldn't slide off. Do you think I should put plywood down on top of the support rails?
I live in a small island town in Alaska so I'm not sure what the local hardware store carries yet but I found some good products on www.rockler.com.
Thanks Ana.