Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.


NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.


Leah (not verified)

Mon, 01/31/2011 - 03:29

Could this bed be easily changed to look simmilar to PB's Hudson by replacing the panels with a high quality 1 inch plywood and some quarter round trim? Has anyone tried it? I'm dying to get the hudson bed but my budget would never allow it, and when I saw these plans I had hope... here is the PB bed I was talking about:…

Teresa (not verified)

Tue, 02/08/2011 - 16:36

What exactly is the "antique wash" used on this bed? Is it watered down latex paint or a completely different product?


Haley Folmer (not verified)

Wed, 03/23/2011 - 21:25

Some of you have been asking about the illusive 4.5" screws.  I also went to HD and Lowes and found that they don't exist, so I went to my local hardware store and asked them what to do.  They handed me some 4.5" lag screws (with hex heads) and told me that they would be easier, and I had no idea what they meant by that until I actually assembled my bed.

Heres what I found (the hard way):
1.  You need 24 of them, not 20 (6 in each post times 4 posts).  You might even want to get some extra to attach the side rails since they are so strong and you'll already have the hang of it.
2.  You also need: a socket wrench and a hex bit to fit your lag screws (both a manual one and an electric bit).  ALSO, you need a flat drill bit that will be wide enough to allow your socket wrench to fit inside your hole.
2. Pre drill about an inch deep using a flat drill bit.  After your first hole, make sure you can fit your socket wrench in there!  If not, use a bigger drill bit.
3. Start screwing your lag in with the electric drill until it wimps out.
4. Tighten by hand with socket wrench.
5. Save your sawdust and mix with wood glue into a nice paste, and fill your holes.  Wait a couple of hours and sand it flat, filling any remaining dimples or grooves with wood filler and sand when that is dry.
Would regular 4.5" screws be better if you could find them?  I don't think they are as strong, personally.  This wood is so heavy... 
Thanks for the plans Ana!  Can't wait to finish my guest bed!!!!

Sarah M. (not verified)

Mon, 03/28/2011 - 22:19

Hi Ana,

I just love, love, love, your site! Thank you for all you do on here, it's so helpful to me and it saves me so much money!

I was wondering if you had plans to do this bed in a Twin XL. I have 2 boys that are really tall and they are in desperate need of new beds! We were going to purchase these Pottery Barn Beds (…), but I actually like your bed better! I showed my husband (who can build... with instructions :) and he thinks we might be able to do this. We would love to give it a try, but are unsure what the dimensions would be for the size we would like. Like I said, we would love to have Twin XL beds with a box spring. Would you be able to send me the materials, cut list, and instructions for this size?

Thank You So Very Much,
Sarah M.


Tue, 03/29/2011 - 22:09

I would really like to make this bed but we'll be moving fairly soon - how can I make this so it can come apart to move and get in and out of houses, and still be sturdy and look nice?

Thanks so much!


Mon, 04/11/2011 - 07:32

Rockler sells bed brackets that let you securely and non-permanently attach the rails to the head and foot board.  By far the easiest route.

The second, more traditional route is to cute a mortise through the legs and build the rails long enough that they go all the way through, and leave a little bit of room to wedge them with a key mortise on the other side.

A little bit of google-fu (and the fact that I grew up around woodworkers, so knew the terminology) found this for a good example of what I mean:…

It's something I wouldn't be afraid to tackle, but probably shouldn't be your first build.

Also, don't be intimidated by looking at that magazine and think that you need to be a middle-aged man with a beard to do "serious" woodworking.  My mom was a woodworker for years, and has never been either bearded or a middle aged man.

Harold (not verified)

Mon, 04/11/2011 - 02:04

The plans involving the 4x4 posts / queen sized farmhouse bed are ill thought out.

The problem being, if you build the head/foot boards to the specs, the 4x4s are 60" apart.  The exact size of the 60" queen mattress/box spring.  However, when you affix the 2x10 side rails, to the inside of the 4x4 posts, suddenly you lose 1.5" on each side (width of the 2x10s) and hence neither the box spring or mattress will fit.

So unless you want to just plop a large piece of ugly plywood down ontop of the whole thing, you have to find a way to chisel/route out slots in the 4x4s in the head board, and do god only knows what to make the foot board end work.

So if you want to make a queen sized farmhouse, i strongly suggest just scaling down the dimensions of the king that Ana designed so well, or if you must use the 4x4s, make your headboard/footboard 3" wider.  (measure your 2x10s to be sure they are indeed 1.5" thick, if they are not, then double their thickness and add that to the head/foot boards)

I discovered this only after making the entire head board and foot boards. Needless to say, i'm extremely angry that after spending $200 on wood/supplies and hours of work.

LoCrawford (not verified)

Sun, 06/24/2012 - 04:12

(1) If you're just using a mattress (no box spring), the slats that hold up the mattress should be afixed so the tops are at the same height as the side rails. The mattress isn't bound by the side rails and can just sit atop the whole base.

(2) If you plan to incorporate your box spring, attach 2x4s to the inside of the 4x4 posts. The 2x4s will hold up the box spring and the 2x10s (length stated in cut list) can be nailed to the outside of the 2x4s and will serve a decorative function only.

Both of the above methods are stated by Ana herself, one in her plans, the other in a comment listed before yours. Your problem sounds like a reading error instead of a design error to me. Hope this helps.