Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.


NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.


Guest (not verified)

Fri, 04/06/2012 - 10:55

im need how to make mdf bed frame

Regina (not verified)

Sun, 04/22/2012 - 16:39

I plan on trying this plan for my guest room. I have one question. How easy is this bed frame to break down in order to move after being built ? I tend to redecorate often. I dont want to have to unscrew a lot of screws just to move to another room.

Darcie (not verified)

Fri, 05/11/2012 - 14:01

Hey Ana,

My husband and I are celebrating our 23rd wedding anniversary next weekend and I've decided that I'm going to make this bed as my gift to him. (Yep, I'm a last minute kind of person!) We've gone back and forth from Queen to King size beds and have never had a nice head/foot board.

I just ventured to my local orange store armed with my pick list. (I found 4 x 4 doug-fir posts with no problem here in Utah). For years now I've been a wanna-be furniture builder! I'm going to do this!

I'm super stoked but feeling a bit nervous too. My husband and I absolutely love the natural grain and textures in wood and I know he's going to love this bed.

I would have never dared this type of venture without your support Ana.

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with all of us wanna-bee's!!!

God gives us talents to share and promises to bless us with more talents if we much be a Goddess by now with all of the sharing you've done!

Gratefully yours,
Darcie in Utah

Darcie (not verified)

Fri, 05/18/2012 - 10:20

OK so several of you have mentioned that this is your first real woodworking project....if so I can't be the only one having problems.
First of all, how the heck to I keep everything square? Ive tried the 3 4 5 method, measured criss-cross from corner to corner, and even used a small square when attaching each board on the headboard & foot board. Everything still ended up not being exactly lined up and it's driving me crazy! Ive taken apart and redone the different components on this thing several times now.
Ive added trim and it hides some of the unsightly mishaps. but now I'm having a heck of a time getting the lag screws drilled straight from the 4 x 4's into the 3-layered panel pieces!
Yes, I've already admitted that this is my first real project but dang-it I want this to look good!
I know that Ana's knowledge could never be transposed into text onto this project plan but surely someone can shed some light on getting nice straight drilled holes! I didn't think this would be so awkward. They keep ending up slightly angled and coming out the middle of my panel. Also, the 4 x 4 isn't cinching up tightly against the panel...??

Nick B (not verified)

Mon, 05/28/2012 - 21:59

Had to modify the plans slightly for my purposes. Being military, I move around a lot. Instead of 4x4s, I used 2 2x4s for the posts, but I cut a space 8" up and left room for the side rail to fit in to the footboard and rest flush with the outside of the post. Same with the posts of the headboard. The side rails have a 2x2 cleat running along the entire length, which cuts out the joists for slats- and if need be I can add slats later, so the box-spring fits snug between the rails. The side rails are fastened to the headboard and footboard with 5/16" lag bolts, and all that is needed to disassemble is to remove the 4 bolts and the bed comes apart like a puzzle into two siderails, headboard, and footboard. Your plans are always a great starting point for me, and the way they are put together leaves plenty of room for modification. Thanks!

Trisha Johnson (not verified)

Fri, 06/15/2012 - 15:24

I was wondering what kind of paint you used to paint the bed? We have painted furniture before, however, the paint we used yellowed.

Angel Rose

Tue, 07/03/2012 - 15:34

someone who has made this already may be able to help.

How do I make sure my screws go through my post and hit the 3/4 inch board on the other side? I may be making a silly mistake, but i have tried measuring twice and have missed the boards and ruined my posts twice . . . . . was feeling so accomplished up until this point. Any advice would help.

Byron Young (not verified)

Thu, 09/27/2012 - 11:44

From how I read the instructions (and how I did mine) you are only supposed to screw the 4 1/2 screws into the posts where the boards are sandwiched 3 thick, not in the middle sections where the 4x4 meets with your 1x8 (or 3/4 inch board, as you say). I put 3 screws to the top section that is sandwiched and 3 screws to the bottom section that is sandwiched, making a total of 6 screws per 4x4 post. If everything is square, there won't be a gap (or at least a very minimal one) in the middle section where your 4x4 post meets the 1x8 board.

Hope that helps.

Nate (not verified)

Tue, 07/31/2012 - 14:52

Ana, thinking about building this for my wife, but I'm confused about how the side rails attach to the foot board. I see that for the head board, they just slide in on the inside of the 4x4s under the paneling. For the foot board, do they butt up against the paneling on the inside? Is there enough 4x4 to grab inside the paneling? Thanks!