Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.


NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.


USMCamp0811 (not verified)

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 06:48

Would I lose any strength if I used 2x4s to build the bed frame for the mattress to sit on? I originally had not intended on using the frame as I have a box spring; however when I started to look and see how it was going to look height wise I am changing my mind. My mattress as is sits 21" high w/ boxspring just sitting on the floor. The footboard is only 24" high. If I do away with the boxspring and build a frame, I can gain some extra space. Basically I don't want the mattress towering over the footboard.

My solution was to use some extra 2x4s I have laying around and build a frame similar to above. I've got a pretty heavy memory foam mattress that I want to ensure has proper support and is not towering over my footboard.

What do y'all think?

Samamantha landsberg (not verified)

Wed, 10/17/2012 - 11:22

i found your site here and love everything about it.. it has really inspired me to play with (not that way..hehe) i'm very crafty, but wasnt so sure about building.. my husdband had a customer that owned a mill. so i wrote my list and gave it to him for this bed.. and what i got back was absolutly beautiful raw red pine... Oh my is it beautiful.. it has been 6 months now it is planed and dried finally and this week we are working on building it.. I do have one question i have serched for as you stated ubove with using a box spring.. but i can't find what i need.. i have all the wood to build the middle but would it still work with using a box spring???
also if i knew how to post pictures i would lol with the scrap wood I built a potting bench always wanted one and i serched on here for one and was so excited although with no measurements, my husdband told me make a blue print.. so i did and you should see it.. absolutly beautiful... thanks for the site and look forward to hearing from you...

Monica P. (not verified)

Tue, 11/06/2012 - 07:42

I have a question for anyone that would be kind enough to answer. I am in the process of making the queen farmhouse bed. I read through all the brags posts and plans and I believe I have made the right tweaks to get the bed will perfectly meet my needs.

There was a brag post that mentioned using pocket holes on the inside of the trim panels to screw into the post, I decided to use the pocket hole suggestion but to also use the 4.5 inch wood screws to screw into the panels from the post. I felt like that way I would have 2 screws going in both I would be covered. However, yesterday, I drilled pocket holes and used 2.5 inch pocket hole screws, two on each trim panel, for a total of 4 screws in each post. After I screwed them all in, my footboard felt STURDY. My question is: Am I okay just using the pocket holes? Or should I absolutely use the 4.5 inch woods screws through the posts?

My rationale is that I may be okay just using pocket holes screws, because the two screws in each panel, both penetrate the posts about 2 inches, whereas the original plan calls for 3 screws into the post, but would only penetrate the panel 1 inch per screws. So the inches penetrated by the pocket hole screws would be greater.

Any thoughts?

Thank you!

Ashlee (not verified)

Sun, 11/11/2012 - 19:35

Do you by any chance have plans for this bed, as a king size?

Wanda McLennan (not verified)

Mon, 11/12/2012 - 12:28

Can someone tell me what they used for the 4x4 post? I can only find pressure treated post. Any suggestions.

Flasinc (not verified)

Wed, 11/14/2012 - 16:42

I too am having a hard time finding non-pressure treated 4x4's. Many comments say they paid $$ for fir or cedar. I have no options. I have called 5 lumberyards (forget the big box stores - they only have PT) and no one has any. I am in FL. I don't want to use 2 2x4's, but think I may have to. I have 2 panels waiting in my garage and my boys are getting inpatient as they want their new beds. I will try to call a few other places, but then will have to go with the 2 2x4's.

Rick R (not verified)

Tue, 11/27/2012 - 11:16

I built this in King size and changes a few things. I made my posts 5 X 5 and raised the footboard to 31". I also wanted to have the ability to diassemble this so I flush mounteded the side rails to the front of the posts. Nice design. Thanks

Dave Peterson (not verified)

Sun, 12/02/2012 - 12:32

Hi Ana! Can you provide me with the plans, cut list for the King size?

Thanks and love your style!!!

JulieH12 (not verified)

Sun, 12/16/2012 - 14:31

I bought 4x4 cedar posts for $17/post at Lowes, but I found the 4x4 non treated pine for $8 each at Menards.